How to change fuel injectors?

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rubydist

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After you pull the intake off, you will see one bolt on each end of each fuel rail. Remove all 4 of those, then you can gently lift the 2 fuel rails off the heads. You need to lift both at the same time, in my experience. Then, the injectors just slide out of the bottom of the fuel rails. Asm is the reverse.
 

SuperHO

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you must have possession of a level 4 SHO magic wand so as to fight off the ogres in the valley between the heads...
 

SuperHO

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it means don't get lost in the valley between the heads, as you may never find your way out.
 

jvc93//klze

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OK thanks. My SHO engine bay is new to me. Alot of parts are brittle or rusted with 168k on the odometer. Its going to be my first time changing injectors on any car. It seems pretty straightforward to me though. Thanks for the help.
 

Pro*banshee

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you must have possession of a level 4 SHO magic wand so as to fight off the ogres in the valley between the heads...


The dead mouse I found hugging the crossover tube down there, how well does he constitute an ogre?
 

92MTX

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Injectors rarely go bad.. In my experience.
Sounds more like oil in the plug wells, or bad MAF, or a bad plug wire.
Pull codes?
 

jvc93//klze

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I was going to have the codes pulled at Auto Zone but the car is too old for their equipment. Is there a manual way of pulling codes yourself?

The car runs rich and emits white smoke from the exhaust at idle and start up. The car runs fine after start up which eliminates the maf. I already changed the plugs and the plug wells were full of oil.
 

TopGunnYFZ

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I was going to have the codes pulled at Auto Zone but the car is too old for their equipment. Is there a manual way of pulling codes yourself?

The car runs rich and emits white smoke from the exhaust at idle and start up. The car runs fine after start up which eliminates the maf. I already changed the plugs and the plug wells were full of oil.
Go here

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/eec.htm
 

92MTX

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Open hood.. On passengers side, attached to the strut tower are 2 connectors, that share a plastic cover.. It should say "EEC TEST".
One is a single wire, with a gray plug. The other has 2 holes on the top, and 4 on the bottom. Take the cover off, and jump the grey connector to the right hand 2-hole part of the large connector.. one of the 2 will work..
If you do this wrong, the fan will run, and the fuel pump, also..
A pair of tweezers works great for this.
Get in, turn the key to run, and the check engine light will start to blink.
Write down the blinks.. The shophoenix project has a detailed how to, and also lists the codes, and tells you how to read them!! Good luck.
 

jvc93//klze

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I pulled codes 121 and 327

The warm test won't work since my tach cuts in and out intermittently. I repeatedly got code 538.
 

rubydist

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121 says the tp sensor is out of range - bad tps or bad wiring to it
327 says dpfe output is too low - bad dpfe or bad wiring to it
538 says operator error in the koer test - most likely you have to fix the tps before you can do that properly.
 

jvc93//klze

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Changed the TPS. The first start after changing it was good. Then it went back to not wanting to start. I'm thinking of disconnecting the battery to clear the codes. Then see what effect the car has.
 

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