Changing Cam seals, have a few ?'s

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boat

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All 3 of my cam seals are leaking. Previous owner didn't replace them 14k miles ago when a 3.2 swap was done, but replaced everything else for the front 60k, gotta call him about the front main, also. I am looking at 3 options for the seals:

1. Buy from someone on here, unsure of brand
2. RockAuto BCN 1213N's
3. Ford Dealer, Genuine Ford OEM Seals

I have been reading this post to try to figure out which is best. Sounds to me like the BCN National's last longer than the Genuine Ford OEM Seals. Thoughts?

I have been reading and searching things out. To replace the rear cam seal at the cam sensor, I am going to do the electrical tape and grease method. But I am also going to remove the cam seal cap from the top (rear), after I take off the valve covers, gotta replace those gaskets, too.

My questions:

1. What type of RTV do I use to reseal the cam cap once I take it off and put it back on?

2. Do I need RTV for the seals if they are rubber coated, if so, what type, color, etc.?

3. What kind of grease should I use to help slide the cam seal in place?

4. Is it a good idea to do the electrical tape/grease method for the front 2 cams as well?
 

K-Dawg

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I've been buying the Ford seals, but Mr. A has installed more cam seals than anyone, so if he says the BCA/National ones are good, then they are probably good. No matter which ones you buy, you need to be sure that they go on straight and don't get distorted or otherwise out of shape.

1. Regular black RTV is fine.
2. Black again.
3. I've used motor oil, or some other types of grease that I have laying around. Doesn't matter much as long as it doesn't degrade the rubber. It doesn't take much.
4. Don't know what that means. The front two are pretty easy. The rear will be easy if you are removing the cap.
 

Eric VerValin

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I don't know why people get them to leak.. I got the standard ones from Ford, and haven't had a leak yet. Little 5w-30 on the outside of em, used an old one flipped over against the new one, and a small peice of something flat, and tapped it in.


Just stay away from those silly steel ones. RTV if it makes you happy, or you see a groove in it. And what do u mean by cam cap? Didn't realize any fluid flowed out of the end of the cam.. lol
 

boat

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Looking down from the top with the valve cover removed there is a cap over the top of the cam seal, that can only come off with the valve cover removed. I am not talking about all the caps inside the head that hold the cam in, it is a cap, I believe with 4 little bolts that holds the cap in place, at the far left side of the head, it would be over the cam seal itself. From the research I have done, it will make it easier to change that rear cam seal. :thumb:

And what do u mean by cam cap? Didn't realize any fluid flowed out of the end of the cam.. lol
 
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itwonder

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My experience with the Ford seals is positive. They are Made in Japan and are the same as what came in the SHO engine when new.

1. Gray is best as it is for close tolerance fit. But black will work.

2. Yes, it's really important to use RTV to help secure the rubber coated seals in place. For some reason, the rear seal seems most acute in this regard. Black or gray is fine.

3. Any non-moly automotive grease.

4. I didn't but don't see any reason you couldn't. Use a quality tape that can be stretched thin, such as Scotch 33. HD carries it.
 

SHOslamwagon

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i actually found a local seal shop in my search for a power steering shaft seal which they gave me for free!! i wish i had found that place before i got the national seals as they would of been cheaper and as far as im concerned of better quality, the national seals i got didn't seem to have much rubber on the outside and had metal faces, the seal shop ones were fully rubber coated like the ones i pulled off the car.

so i guess my point is see if you can find a local seal shop? bearing shops work to, they actually sent me to the seal shop.
 

Phoenix

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i actually found a local seal shop in my search for a power steering shaft seal which they gave me for free!! i wish i had found that place before i got the national seals as they would of been cheaper and as far as im concerned of better quality, the national seals i got didn't seem to have much rubber on the outside and had metal faces, the seal shop ones were fully rubber coated like the ones i pulled off the car.

so i guess my point is see if you can find a local seal shop? bearing shops work to, they actually sent me to the seal shop.

I would ONLY go with what was posted before you , not some generic stuff you found in the thrash bin. How about you test them out first , let us know how many days it takes before it leaks.
 

SHOslamwagon

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I would ONLY go with what was posted before you , not some generic stuff you found in the thrash bin. How about you test them out first , let us know how many days it takes before it leaks.

so far power steering is still un leaky, changed it all about a month ago, i was just stating what i discovered, the seal was brand new he just didn't seem to want to hassle with a debit card over 5 bucks.
 
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