SS Stage 1's vs SN Plus 20's Cams

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Sho Amo

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i dont understand how that is. if i turn the idle screw it would be like my foot is slightly on the gas at all times. i didnt know the computer would actually adjust for that?
 

ycode90

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i dont understand how that is. if i turn the idle screw it would be like my foot is slightly on the gas at all times. i didnt know the computer would actually adjust for that?
The ECU will think that something is wrong and start trying to figurer it out and eventually your idle quality and drivability will suffer. "The idle and base timing are preset by the factory and cannot be changed " Isn't that what the sticker says?
 

yamahaSHO

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i dont understand how that is. if i turn the idle screw it would be like my foot is slightly on the gas at all times. i didnt know the computer would actually adjust for that?
You can always do it if you don't believe me.
 

Sho Amo

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no i believe you, i was just explaining why i thought differently. trust me, if you tell me somethin that has to do with tuning im all ears. i have no experience.
 

Sho Amo

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what would be easier. buying a set of heads and installing cams in them then swapping heads or just swapping the cams in car? im guessing i would need a shim kit since i only have a limited number of extra shims. mostly between 2500 and 2575.

i have been doing some research, however im getting mixed replies.

is degreeing cams a necessity/problem?

am i going to need smaller sized shims, 2500 and below?

im thinking of more questions but not sure how to ask them.
 

LOUDSHO92

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Install the cams, much easier.

The cams will run without degreeing, but you need adjustable sprockets for it.

Yes, at least 2400.
 

GR8WYT

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What are the differences?? Please politely correct me if I am wrong.

I know they have different lifts and durations.

I have heard the shoshop stage 1's loose less torque down low.

I have heard shoshop stage 1's gain 15hp. Is that at the wheel or crank?

How much power do the plus 20's make compared to the stage 1's?

So, before this thread goes too far off into the weeds... Have you had your questions answered?
 

AREA 91

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My Green 91 + with all the mods does NOT want to idle with the +40's and 8lb flywheel. I have my idle raised. I really don't like seeing the red oil light come on when the RPM's drop down to 500.
 

jon93

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So, before this thread goes too far off into the weeds... Have you had your questions answered?

I was really looking for some dyno runs on the same car/mods comparing stage 1's/+20's and stage 2's/+40's. I don't think anyone has ever done that because of the extensive work and all the other variables that go into it but I thought maybe some people would post up some of their own dyno sheets.
 

38SHO

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what would be easier. buying a set of heads and installing cams in them then swapping heads or just swapping the cams in car?

when I took my heads off my old 3.0, I had to remove the intake cam, or atleast loosen it so my big 1/2" socket would fit on the head bolt and remove it... so I think you would almost have to bolt the heads on the car without the cam on... so just swap the cams on the car, also save yourself the price of heads and headgaskets

you could probably use a smaller socket and get it off, but I had to hammer at it with my 1/2" air gun to break them loose...
 

yamahaSHO

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I've never removed a cam to remove the head. It's a tight fit, but I can get my socket in there. Pat ground his socket down to fit with ease.
 

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