ZEX 82011 Install help

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masho95

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Dr.Evil:
I forgot to unpug the vacuum line the first time. So I unpuged it and tried it again, around 40 PSI at idle, and it raised up to around 44 at WOT. It didn't matter is the system was active or not. whats the deal? I thought it should spike to over 60? Maybe the pressure guage couldn't keep up?

also, I got 3923, not 2923 like I said above. These are alright, right?
Yes the Autolite 3923 plugs are the correct ones. I'm not exactly sure about the fuel pressure as I haven't ran my system, so I can't help you out there. Hopefully another Zex user can chime in here. Do you have any pictures of your setup? I'd love to see som shots of under the hood and the bottle mounting.
 

olympic

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There should definitely be a fuel pressure spike but I don't think you'll see it unless the NMU is actually flowing nitrous. I assume you tested it with the system armed but the bottle closed. The Zex NMU is pretty smart so it may not raise fuel pressure if no nitrous flow is detected.

One common mistake people make is they "T" the hose fron the NMU into the stock FPR vacuum hose. This is not correct. You should have one hose running from a manifold vacuum source to the NMU and another one running from the NMU directly to the FPR.

Just make sure everything is hooked up properly and you have the correct jets installed and you're good to go. Bottle pressure should be around 950psi for optimum performance.
 

Dr.Evil

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I have it hooked up correctly, but the pressure guage isn't working.

Also, I tried it with the system armed and the bottle on, with the line disconnected (no N20 Jet) and it shot the n20, but I did not see an increase in fuel pressure.

Ill see what zex says tomorrow.
 

Dr.Evil

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Yea come to find out the N20 bottle has to be fully on for it to do anything. It detects how much N20 is flowing through the line and sends the correct increase in fuel pressure, depending on bottle pressure. So it works great now!

I'll post some pics tomorrow.
 

masho95

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Dr.Evil:
Yea come to find out the N20 bottle has to be fully on for it to do anything. It detects how much N20 is flowing through the line and sends the correct increase in fuel pressure, depending on bottle pressure. So it works great now!

I'll post some pics tomorrow.
Kick a$$ ! Glad to here it's up and running and I can't wait to see those pics!!

<small>[ March 29, 2004, 11:46 PM: Message edited by: masho95 ]</small>
 

Dr.Evil

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Alright I needed a break from Stats II homework.

Look Ma, no bottle!

zex_tank1.jpg


Better shot of the tank location:

zex_tank2.jpg


Line running down through the stereo wire passage

zex_line3.jpg


Line runs under the trim/carpet through here

zex_line1.jpg


Switches (middle is for the N20 activation, left is for grill neons and right is for my custom bumper neons.)

zex_switches.jpg


Box location

zex_box1.jpg


Purge location (inside fender well, will be hidden when SS CAI gets here

zex_purge.jpg


Purge nozzle out the fender (holes were already there, so I decited to use them...makes it great for scaring people (loud/violent)

zex_purge2.jpg



When I get the SS CAI, I will work on hiding everything in the engine compartment. I had a tip to build a box around the NMU, and stick a MSD smog sticker on it. Im wrapping all of the lines/wires in that black wire loom stuff. LMK what ya think!
 

SHOnuff93

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Kinda looks like the Zex system that was installed on my car, including the purge and bottle pressure guage.... oh wait, that is mine.

Looks good man, enjoy it.
 

masho95

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Wow looks very nice. I'll have to post pics of mine when it's done. 2 months maybe frown

<small>[ March 30, 2004, 10:16 PM: Message edited by: masho95 ]</small>
 

masho95

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I don't have my Zex instruction booklet handy, but was mounting the tank in that position one of the suggested methods?
 

Dr.Evil

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No, in the manual is says to mount it with the tall bracket up front, with the lable sticking up so the tube can pick up all of the n20 when it is running low. So I just reverest the brackets (tall in the back now), and it looks like it should mounted to the floor. I dont think I will have any probem with it in this location, except if I ever get a remote bottle opener, I may have to adjust it further right because the speaker is in the way. Post some pic of of how you set it up when your done. thumb
 

Dr.Evil

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Alright now that it is up and running, I have a couple questions:

How long can the bottle be open?

Also, how many times can you purge it (I mean, how much does it waste each time I clear the line)?

Thanks

:thumbs_u:
 

Dr.Evil

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Dr.Evil said:
Alright now that it is up and running, I have a couple questions:

How long can the bottle be open?

Also, how many times can you purge it (I mean, how much does it waste each time I clear the line)?

Thanks

:thumbs_u:


Anyone? I really need to know how long I can run w/ the tank on....
 

SHOMurph

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Dr.Evil said:
No, in the manual is says to mount it with the tall bracket up front, with the lable sticking up so the tube can pick up all of the n20 when it is running low. So I just reverest the brackets (tall in the back now), and it looks like it should mounted to the floor. I dont think I will have any probem with it in this location, except if I ever get a remote bottle opener, I may have to adjust it further right because the speaker is in the way. Post some pic of of how you set it up when your done. thumb

The pick up tube is point down and is angled down away from the sticker.

Its recommended to have it turned north and south so as you accelerate the nitrous as it starts to run low will flow back into the pick up tube.

What you have is fine until you start to run low.
 

rich1034

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Where is your blow down tube located at????? I'd look at that. It's a requirement at the track, and you don't want nitrous blowing into the car while you're in it, doesn't make for a fun ride. Other than that, it looks good. Every time you hit the purge, it wastes nitrous. I suggest just purging for a second, and long as you get a steady burst, you're good to go and shouldn't need to repurge unless you turn the bottle off, or let it sit for a long time.
 

olympic

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You should get about 2.5 minutes out of a 10lb tank with a 75hp shot. That's about 10 runs down the 1/4. Purging uses alot of nitrous, probably 2-3 times the amount the engine uses. A good 0.5-1 sec purge is more than enough to clear the lines or put the fear of God into the guy in the next lane...lol! Check this out http://www.tempo-topaz-performance.com/topazsho/purge.wmv

Truthfully though, purging isn't going to make any difference on a 14 second car. I have mine mainly for the "wow" effect.
 

SW SHO

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Olympic,

Isn't purging the line prior to use supposed to clean an unwanted air from the line prior to use and to save possible detonation?
 

olympic

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Yes that's true, although I don't think air in the line will cause detonation. Think about it for a minute. When you go to WOT and the nitrous solenoid opens, how long will it take for the air to be purged and the pure N2O to start flowing? I'm thinking it would be measured in the hundredths of a second. Remember, the nitrous is under about 1000psi pressure. It'll be in a real hurry to get out when the solenoid opens.

Purge solenoids were first used by ******** drag racers where every 0.01 of a second counts. Purging the air just before the race ensured that pure nitrous was waiting at the solenoid for the instant they needed it. It eliminated the waiting time for the nitrous to flow from the bottle through the lines to the intake(hundredth's of a second). On a 14 second SHO, it won't make any noticeable difference.

I'm not trying to say it's a bad thing to do. I'm just explaining the physics behind it. I know I do it just for that "warm and fuzzy" feeling...lol. :****:
 

Dr.Evil

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Im still wondering how long I can safely leave my bottle on and how much N20 is actually in the lines. I feel that I am wasting a lot be turing the bottle on and off and then having to pruge the line. Is it safe to leave it on for a few hours when crusing, or should it only be on for a couple minutes while making passes?
 
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