You cant be serious...

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1993MTXSHO

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Well i jsut replaced my right rear caliper because it was seized and blead the brakes for the 2nds time this month because of brake problems. I just pretty much figured out now my left rear is seized. I honestly cant belive this it has to be 1 in a bazillion that both rear brakes seize at the same time. I think one or both have been seized for a while. Im goign to take it off tomorrow and step on the brakes and see if the piston moves out. At 80 bucks pop with the core for a 92 caliper, this is killing me. Anyone know where I can get one cheaper? I need the left rear and i want a new or remaned one.
 

SuperHO

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junkyard......and how new are your hoses? I just put new reman'd loaded calipers on the back of my 95, but the hoses were collapsed so it didn't do a damn bit of good.
 

Denny

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Yup, the parking brake cables are notorious for rusting up, causing the rears to drag, thus overheating the calipers and collapsing the rubber hose.
 

1995mtxsho

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The previous posts are true, I just totally replaces my rear brake system.
Replaced both Brackets, Calipers, and Hoses. I added in the bias plugs too.
And still need to replace at LEAST my passenger side e-brake cable, but will likely replace the drivers side aswell.

What caused all my failure was the e-brake cables!
They seized in the on position, this roached the calipers. Since the calipers were not functioning at that point the slider pins in the brackets promptly seized too. My old hoses however, would allow air to pass through them after replacement, but may have been restricted.

I got the bias plugs because I busted off the arm on the valve block while disconnecting my lower control arms in a previous repair.
I had planned on getting the plugs before that anyway.

I would recommend replacing anything you are the slightest bit skeptical about working correctly.
 

1993MTXSHO

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well the right rear line is brand new and all my other lines are braded stanless lines and the parkign brake cable is not seized, I also tried loosenign it all the way to see if it was jsut a hair to tight but that didnt work. Then i tried takign the caliper off and spinnign the piston back into the caliper and it worked till i stepped on the brakes then it was back to where it was. I dont think its seized i think its just not returning all the way on its own. Mayeb i can spray some pb in there or something? The boot is ripped a little would that effect it at all maybe dirt got in there? Im goign to see tomorrow if the piston comes out on its own when i step on the brakes if not then its new caliper time.
 

Mr95Gl

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I can't seem to understand why the rear braking system on these cars are notorious for failure. Picking up my 94 was an adventure. Drove 500 miles on ONE working DS caliper. Then it started raining. . . . . . .

Your paying $80 per caliper with the core charge, or $80 plus a core charge?
 

mrecoolgar

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New Ford - NOS

Check out my group buy. :wave:
2006-04-11002.jpg

2006-04-11003.jpg
 
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platoribs

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I was told by my mechanic friend that there are rubber seals or something inside the caliper that when the age the caliper won't retract.

Change out everything in the back and pull maintanence annually.
 

1993MTXSHO

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its 160 and i get 80 back for core, that will all tax included. (NJ BS 7% tax) And i guess im probably going to need another one because I need the car in 2 weeks and i dont have time to rebuild it inless it not to hard to rebuild a caliper.
 

1993MTXSHO

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mrecoolgar said:
Check out me group buy. :wave:
2006-04-11002.jpg

2006-04-11003.jpg
wow man that sucks, what a deal to bad i already bought and used the other caliper from napa, o well i guess im gopign to have to get anotherone.
 

1993MTXSHO

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well i just checked my brake and the piston moves so my conclusion is its not retracting all the way. I caleld my local napa and since they love my mustang so much he said take the caliper and put it on and see if it fixes your problem if not ill take it back and def it out so thats pretty cool and hopefulyl it will fix my issues.
 

1993MTXSHO

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What and where exactly is the rear bias valve, and can it be used to make the rear brakes start braking before the front or brakign more then they do now?
 

Mr95Gl

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I believe it's that "hub thingy" that all the brake lines in the rear go to, above the rear control arm, or next to, but don't quote me on that.
 

Rockledge

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1993MTXSHO said:
What and where exactly is the rear bias valve, and can it be used to make the rear brakes start braking before the front or brakign more then they do now?

See: http://www.shoforum.com/showpost.php?p=527490&postcount=1

It's better known as a rear brake "proportioning valve". The brake "bias plugs" mentioned above are designed to replace the propprtioning valve and provide more rear braking. I've heard good things and bad things about the bias plugs.
 

1993MTXSHO

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How do I know that valve is bad? I think that might be my problem, I tried a new caliper so the pins moved and the caliper wored, i have braded lines so the line isnt collapsed, and i have blead the brakes 3 times with the same result.
 

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