Yes, you can use ANY eatc!

[Snake2715]

Wow.

Ok I have a 1993. My buttons are cracked adn the dash seems to be a mix of blue and green not just solid green.

Two questions I didnt see answered in this whole thread.

A) what cars have these EATC's?
Linconl Mark VII
Crown Victoria
Grand Marquise
What I dont know is years? anything from say 93+?

B)Is there a way to tell what color your getting into? Or is there no physical way to tell the color of the buttons without powering it up?

C)What is a good price on these? I was told $100 for one at a local yard?!?

 

[Mark in PDX]

Ok- I got 2 x 95 EATC out of lincoln town cars. They are slightly smaller than my 93 SHO unit. I have a 95 EATC, but it has died. So I have a 95 lcd and 92 eatc and 2 95 hard button EATC out of a lincoln...
Is there any way to get the 95 resurrected using the circuit boards from the 95 lincoln? I looked at them and the only physical difference on the circuit board is the relay.. So if I solder on my 95 SHO face plate, it should work right? All the buttons are the exact same from these 2 units to my SHO, they are just slightly smaller.
Please advise.
Mark

 

[RStalveyARFF]

wow, only 2 years after the last person posted...

 

[MYSHO1]

holy crap

 

[Mark in PDX]

Well, I am hoping that I can get some info.. I checked all the more recent posts on EATC's and I don't like the gen3 buttons.. I like the stock look better, so am hoping someone might have done this.
Mark

 

[SlowHeavyObject]

well, the only eatc that works in the sho without having to change the pinouts is one from a lincoln continental (preferably from a 95 - hard buttons). unfortunately the display color is green. fortunately it is very easy to change the display color on any eatc back to the sho blue-green/teal. you open up your broke eatc (the faceplate comes off) and in the faceplate window is a piece of plastic film that's used to color the display (sometimes it's framed by a metal rectangle). pop that out. do the same to your other colored one and swap them. presto! same can be done for any vacuum flourescent displays such as the clock and radio. the actual lens is like smoked but it's clear, they use plastic film to determine the color.

another way to tell what eatc unit will work with the sho is all eatc's have a label on them. on that label in bold, huge numbers is the year of manufacture, such as "94" or "95" (so you can tell if it's a true hardbutton and it's pinout). and they all have in bold, semi-huge letters a "color code" such as the work "GREEN" or "RED". the one code that works with all gen2 shos without modification (other than the plastic film) is "BLACK". also, original units have a black casing and hardbutton service replacements have a yellow casing with a black face, (or "YELLOW" code i think also, not sure).

if you need to convert pinouts from mark viii's and others there are piggyback cables for sale out there that do the job for you if you aren't technically inclined.

 

[Mark in PDX]

Ok- I am a >little< confused.. I put a post in the 'help' section and got someone telling me that the Liconln blower motor control is different as well as Pin 25 on the 95 Lincoln.. So they AREN"T compatible.
So on the same day I got told 2 different stories.
However, I tend to agree with you because I plugged it into my SHO, blithely thinking it was a direct fit and found that it controlled the vents/ac, temp and such properly, the fan was just reversed.. I didn't check for long, so don't recall if any of the buttons were reversed, because I was expecting that, I just checked for air flow and clutch engagement and such...
One of the units I have has the yellow casing, one has black... They are both 95 models... both are coded as 95's and are labeled as 'black' like you mention.
So, what changes would I make to fix the fan issue and get it working? It is now a project to play with to see if I can.. Whatever I need to do, I'd like to try.
let me know.
Mark

well, the only eatc that works in the sho without having to change the pinouts is one from a lincoln continental (preferably from a 95 - hard buttons). unfortunately the display color is green. fortunately it is very easy to change the display color on any eatc back to the sho blue-green/teal. you open up your broke eatc (the faceplate comes off) and in the faceplate window is a piece of plastic film that's used to color the display (sometimes it's framed by a metal rectangle). pop that out. do the same to your other colored one and swap them. presto! same can be done for any vacuum flourescent displays such as the clock and radio. the actual lens is like smoked but it's clear, they use plastic film to determine the color.

another way to tell what eatc unit will work with the sho is all eatc's have a label on them. on that label in bold, huge numbers is the year of manufacture, such as "94" or "95" (so you can tell if it's a true hardbutton and it's pinout). and they all have in bold, semi-huge letters a "color code" such as the work "GREEN" or "RED". the one code that works with all gen2 shos without modification (other than the plastic film) is "BLACK". also, original units have a black casing and hardbutton service replacements have a yellow casing with a black face, (or "YELLOW" code i think also, not sure).

if you need to convert pinouts from mark viii's and others there are piggyback cables for sale out there that do the job for you if you aren't technically inclined.

 

[SlowHeavyObject]

i definitely know there are piggyback cables that can switch around the other eatc's to work with the sho. easiest way to do it - max cost is like $20. as far as the pinouts go it's a lengthy process. i do know however that another easy fix is just swapping the faceplates and boards to get one good, properly working unit but that involves soldering stuff.

weird that your fan control is opposite tho. is your lincoln eatc from a mark viii or a continental? i know the mark viii has weird issues but i used a 95 continental in my 94 and it worked fine till oddly one of the hardbuttons broke. then i got an original eatc from a 95 sho that "should" work to put in it, but it acts up. when i put on anything where it engages the a/c it seems to have a bug in the output vents. under a regular idle or slow driving it comes out the dash vents. it'll stay that way until i decide to pass someone, step on it or do some brisk acceleration. then it switches to throwing the a/c out the defroster vents and never switches back until hours later. it's really a pain in super-hot weather. i have to hit the panel-floor button just to get it to blow cold air at me. oddly though, when i checked everything out and even tested the board, everything checked fine. your fan output seems like the same type of thing?!

sometimes these things are totally clueless. welcome to ford/taurus/sho ownership. i gave up and now i just drive with my windows down in the summer. good luck with your fix. if i can get any more details on the fix i'll let you know.

 

[SlowHeavyObject]

also i forgot to mention. maybe if you have the cash. you could just get ALL the parts from another car. like if you have a mark viii eatc, just go out and get the blower control module, blend door actuator, etc., from a mark viii. then it'll be guaranteed to work.

 

[Mark in PDX]

You know.. I am not sure which model Lincoln they came out of.. I think 1 was a town car, and the other was a 93, but had a 95 EATC in it, so ? I thought they were both town cars.. Because I had heard the town car was a better fit.. But now that I think back, I really didn't pay enough attention to that.. I saw obvious hard buttons and went for it.
sigh..
I have found a 93+ eatc that a local clubber is giving me... But here I have 2 hard button EATC's.. I want to make them work! Esp since I have a 95 w/ a bad circuit board.. I'd like to fix it and have a backup.
Having 2 Gen 2 cars now.. I like to have spare parts...
thanks
Mark

 

[ohioshodude]

if your getting a 93 unit just solder the newer face from the lincoln to the 93 mainboard, swap the faceplate with your old 95 eatc and put everything in the 95 plastic housing... done working eatc.


also where are these piggy back plugs. first time i've herd of this. doesn't make sense as most all EATC are different for different vehicles. SlowHeavyObject it seems like the problem with eatc you have now is a vacuum issue, make sure the plug is tight or swap the vacuum actuators out with your old unit.

lots of misinformation here...

 

[Mark in PDX]

Good question on the piggybacks.. where can I get info on these?
Mark

 

[SlowHeavyObject]

i swear those piggyback cables are out there. i can't remember where i found them though. it was either through a search i did on this forum or from an online vendor. but they are definitely out there cause my cousin uses one. all they really do is cross the wires from one end to the other (sorta like changing the pinouts but easier cause it's all in the cable). try a search on here or one of those online places that refurbishes eatcs. you could probably make one yourself from some harnesses from the junkyard once you know the pinouts. i think they sell manuals that cover all the ford eatc models on ebay (don't know if it's an official ford publication).

oh, and i found out what my problem was. it had nothing to do with the vacuum lines/operation at all. turns out my ccrm was going bad. i found out that the ccrm turns off the a/c clutch under wot, when engine rpms are too low/high, or when engine coolant is too hot under normal operation. well the ccrm was getting the wrong throttle signal and any time i stepped on the gas it was sensing wide open throttle and thereby turning off the a/c compressor - and i found out that when it's off, the eatc gets a "moderate temperature" signal and sends the air out through the defroster and floor. just to be safe i replaced the the ccrm and the tps. looks like the eatc is wired into everything into the car! i'm surprised it doesn't act up whenever i move my seat...

 

[Mark in PDX]

Well, for now I got a 93 and fixed my solution.. I took the 95 lincoln and other than the fan being backwards it worked fine.. Ran the AC clutch properly and everything.... I can't get the 95 CD from the free ford cd site as I need ISO. Anyone got it?
Mark

 

[Minnesho]

can anyone on here make it say "SHO" instead of off? if you can I will send you my eatc and pay you to do so, i really want this ! PM me!

 

[SHOtime2511]

can anyone on here make it say "SHO" instead of off? if you can I will send you my eatc and pay you to do so, i really want this ! PM me!

ahaha that would be sweet

 

[shantz]

Is there such a thing as a Blue EATC???

 

[LookAtThatSHO]

Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction here. I'm no expert with electronics, so please bare with me. I just got a 97 Lincoln Continental EATC in mint condition.



In an earlier post, it was said that you can just swap the face plate to an earlier SHO EATC (which I have with cracked buttons). I have several questions on "how" exactly to go about removing the face plates from each unit.

Here I've got the face place detached from the unit, but there are two ribbons going behind the back of the face plate. I realize that there are several screws holding on the board to the plate that need to be removed in order to get to the end of where the two ribbons attach. Do the points where the ribbons meet the board need to be heated to melt the solder for the ribbons to detach? Also, when re-attaching, do the ribbons from the older EATC need to be soldered in to the same exact location on the newer EATC?


Lastly, there are two points of wires going in to where the fan speed "roller" is. For this, is it just a simple splice for this to work on the older unit?


Thanks in advance everyone.

-Mike

 

[only1me]

Sorry to bring back a old thread but has anyone successfully modded an older eatc unit, with the two 7 pin cables ,and the small 2 wire cable,to a newer faceplate? Mine is a 91 it works perfect, but buttons are all cracked, so Im assuming its like the dual 7pin cables with the extra 2 wire cable also.

 

[Mark in PDX]

Mike,
You take the faceplate & wires and wire them to the motherboard of the cracked faced unit- the faceplates stay in tact... The issue you will have is that the look of your unit is now the Lincoln faceplate, not the SHO look and they don't fit on the front of the SHO box, so you have to move all the innards from the SHO eatc to the Lincoln EATC, it should fit ok.. mine did.. But the screws won't quite match either.. I ended up searching til I found a non SHO eatc in a yard and and got that to work.. I have several lincoln eatc that work for spare parts once I figure out how to mate them properly with my old sho front plates. For now, I have hard button eatc's, so that project went by the wayside.. Others seem to have played with this and gotten it to work though.
Mark