aaronsbiza
New Member
Does anyone have a link to a good write up on replacing the water pump, cps, timing belt, and front main seal. Besides Shotimes?
Write Up On Water Pump and CPS Replacement?
- Thread starter aaronsbiza
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40BelowSummer
SHO Member
SHOBound
New Member
2 Aarons in the same boat. I need to do all that stuff on mine and then some ! We are really in for it, trust me !
aaronsbiza
New Member
Can somebody elaborate the instructions from shotimes regarding the ATX Timing Belt Tensioner Removal? That is the only part of the write up that confuses me and I don't want to fudge things up. The write up is as follows...
17) Remove the tension from the timing belt by removing the outer (12 MM I think) bolt from the hydraulic tensioner. Then remove the inner bolt and remove the tensioner. Do not lose the little rubber wedge that goes between the oil pump housing and the tensioner. Then remove the timing belt guide and belt.
Which Bolt do I remove first?
Where do I actually place the c-Clamp to hold the tension?
Do I remove the tensioner first then put the C-Clamp on it?
18) Place the hydraulic tensioner in a 4 1/2" vice to compress the piston in the tensioner. I had to use a two foot cheater bar to compress the little piston. (Don't let it slip out of the vice!) There is a hole in the piston and body so you can place a 1.5 MM allen wrench to hold the tension. Release the tensioner from the vice and set it aside.
17) Remove the tension from the timing belt by removing the outer (12 MM I think) bolt from the hydraulic tensioner. Then remove the inner bolt and remove the tensioner. Do not lose the little rubber wedge that goes between the oil pump housing and the tensioner. Then remove the timing belt guide and belt.
Which Bolt do I remove first?
Where do I actually place the c-Clamp to hold the tension?
Do I remove the tensioner first then put the C-Clamp on it?
18) Place the hydraulic tensioner in a 4 1/2" vice to compress the piston in the tensioner. I had to use a two foot cheater bar to compress the little piston. (Don't let it slip out of the vice!) There is a hole in the piston and body so you can place a 1.5 MM allen wrench to hold the tension. Release the tensioner from the vice and set it aside.
Dr. Tweak
Mad Scientist
I'm going to be doing the whole front 60K on the ATX in two weeks, and a guide specific to the ATX will be up on the site, if you can wait that long. thumb
Mr Anonymous
Tire Wall
Just remove the tensioner. I've never used any particular order to removing the bolts.
When you remove the tensioner, you'll see the piston that pushes the pulley arm to provide tension. Once the tensioner is removed, you just put the tensioner in a vise or c-clamp (vise will be easier, most c-clamps don't like to grip the bottom of the tensioner where there's a bump), and compress it until you can fit a small allen wrench in the hole and through the piston to hold it in the compressed position until you reinstall it. Whatever you do, DON'T loosen the bolt on the pulley!
When you remove the tensioner, you'll see the piston that pushes the pulley arm to provide tension. Once the tensioner is removed, you just put the tensioner in a vise or c-clamp (vise will be easier, most c-clamps don't like to grip the bottom of the tensioner where there's a bump), and compress it until you can fit a small allen wrench in the hole and through the piston to hold it in the compressed position until you reinstall it. Whatever you do, DON'T loosen the bolt on the pulley!
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