WP to block

[shoon]

So was throwing everything back together and I used some RTV on the o-ring between the waterpump and engine block. I wasn't sure about it, so I did some research and found its usually not advised because the o ring needs to "float", but sometimes is acceptable depending on application.

Has anyone used RTV on the o ring before and does it work? or should I rip it apart clean the surfaces and fix it?

 

[93rev2sev]

I'd use the RTV on the mating surface, but not on the o-ring, just to keep it sealed from the environment...not to help seal the cooling system. Clean it all off real nice and you can expect rust to be there next time.

 

[kevinspann]

If its all already back together, id run it and see if it leaks first.

 

[93rev2sev]

If its all already back together, id run it and see if it leaks first.

Unless you've boogered it all up in the groove where the o-ring rides.

It might be worth tearing into again now...when you've got the choice.

 

[shoon]

I applied a thin coat on the inner mating surface as well as the outer... I don't want to do this job again anytime soon so I pulled it apart and cleaned it again. Looking at the o-ring, its no longer round- I'm guessing they are a one time use type deal? with all the heat and compression of the 2 parts its kinda flat now. I remember last time I did this job I had a **** of a time trying to get the o-ring to stay seated. Now it just plops right in.

It's weird the WP comes with a new gasket but no new o-ring.. its not possible to change the WP without unbolting it from the block.. DAMNIT! Now I got no wheels and I need an o-ring. Anyone know the ID/OD of a the O-ring in its un-crushed state?

Edit: just to confirm, these o-rings are not reusable right? ... or are they naturally kinda flat?

 

[firebat45]

I've reused them several times before, no issues.

 

[shoon]

Thanks for the help guys. Got it all back together (fighting every step of the way). Went to bleed the cooling system; I was taught to wait till the t-stat opens and then the rad fan kicks on shortly after. Unfortunately, my rad fan fuse was blown and it boiled over before I had a chance to put the rad cap back on... huge mess

Swapped the 40A defroster fuse so I can have a functional rad fan for now.. hasn't blown yet. I suspect I need a new motor (probably shorted windings) because the fan got seized in the winter when a bunch of snow got packed in there. I have a spare motor from a 91 SHO, but it is single speed, the one I have now is dual. Better to get a new motor? or can I make the single speed one work?