Would an alignment fix this????

[SHO SPD]

Ok, the front wheels of the SHO are like this driver side pointing straight, passenger side pointing just a little twards the right (if your sittting in the car) and the passenger side wheel is toed in at the bottom about 1" would an alignment fix all this? I just replaced the tie rod ends, and aI am getting an alignment tomorrow, just wondering now...

 

[sdpatt]

An alignment will correct the toe-in misalignment due to the installation of the new tie rod ends, but just installing the tie rod ends will not change the camber ("toed in at the bottom"). Have you hit something with the front wheels? A curb? A really deep pothole? Even with the spot welds drilled out in the upper strut tower adjustment plate, there are only a few degrees of motion available to correct the camber. I hope it is not really 1" of positive camber. Something would have to be damaged to create that condition.

 

[TopSHO92]

Yes, the alignment should fix this. If I'm understanding you right, you (or someone else) just replaced the tie rod ends, and didn't align afterwards? If so, it is basically humanly impossible to thread the new ones into the exact same position... so an alignment is essential.

If all of this is true, it should take care of the problem. Also, when you get your car back, check to see if:
1) the steering wheel is centered while going down the road (a good road with no side wind)
2) make sure the car doesn't pull to the right or left more than is normal

If either of these is the case, take it back and tell them to check it again.

Just for the record, I've been doing alignments for 7 years now. Best of luck! burn_out

 

[SHO SPD]

Yeah, sorry.. the owner before me hit a curb, so I bout the car as is, and teh ca wheel was toed in at the bottom, and still is, I had to change the tie rod ends, got done tonight, so I am getting it aligned the car drives straight, but I have to have the wheel turned 45 degrees to the left.... I am praying it is just WAYY out of align..

 

[TopSHO92]

sdpatt:
("toed in at the bottom"). Have you hit something with the front wheels? A curb? A really deep pothole? Even with the spot welds drilled out in the upper strut tower adjustment plate, there are only a few degrees of motion available to correct the camber. I hope it is not really 1" of positive camber. Something would have to be damaged to create that condition.

I missed that part in his message Scott. Well said thumbs_u

If the top of the wheel is indeed out that far, (or bottom in) you have real problems. And unless you tell the shop to drill out the spot-welds to allow for another degree or two of movement to correct it, they more than likely won't because it's a huge PITA!! trust me, I know wink I only did it on my car because it is "mine"

also, have them look for bent parts. sometimes when hitting a curb, the lower control arm can be bent, or pushed back... among many other things. (cross your fingers that it's not)
good luck

<small>[ March 06, 2002, 11:10 PM: Message edited by: TopSHO92 ]</small>

 

[RStalveyARFF]

people! your alignment shops are FOS when the say it's a PITA to do the alignment. shoot I can do a full 4 wheel alignment on the sho in about a half hour, including getting rid of the spot welds and adjusting camber and caster. Don't drill the welds out yourself, because if you don't have the correct tool, you will be weaking the strut towers. Tell the alignment tech to take a 13mm semishallow socket and loosen all 3 nuts. then take an air chisel and the flat bit, and buzz between the strut tower and the plate. Voila, the welds will "pop" and you can go about your alignment. btw, max you should go is -1 degree on camber, but you can go as high as 5 degrees on caster.

 

[SHO SPD]

Well I looked really close and the wheel is toed in about .5" its barely noticeable.. I looked and compared the control arms, and everything nothing is bent from where it should be.. so thats a yes that it will be able to be fixed?

 

[TopSHO92]

Yeah, that shouldn't be a problem SHO SPD...

SHO91MTX
[QB]people! your alignment shops are FOS when the say it's a PITA to do the alignment. shoot I can do a full 4 wheel alignment on the sho in about a half hour, including getting rid of the spot welds and adjusting camber and caster. Don't drill the welds out yourself, because if you don't have the correct tool, you will be weaking the strut towers. Tell the alignment tech to take a 13mm semishallow socket and loosen all 3 nuts. then take an air chisel and the flat bit, and buzz between the strut tower and the plate. Voila, the welds will "pop" and you can go about your alignment.QB]

Yeah, I could align a SHO in a half and hour too? My average time is about 45 mins on any vehicle... some take up to 2 hours (replacement parts,rusted strut bolts/tie rods)... and some take 20 minutes... and most of that is setup/teardown time (depending on the machine you have).

Yeah, I can take shortcuts, too. but when you use an air chisel, you run the risk of damaging the strut bolts, it (usually) warps the adjustment plate all to ****, and the spot welds, 90% of the time, don't break off evenly... so you're left with weld pieces sticking up. And when you drill them, you don't drill all the way through?!? You see... this is not a PITA.

What's a PITA is when you don't have enough adjustment in the factory camber/caster adjustment slots. Then you have to remove the plate, lower the strut, and die-grind the slots for more adjustment, tighten it back up, lower the front end again and hope it's in spec. Otherwise, you have to keep on grinding away... And when I do it, I always clean the area around the ground slots/spotwelds with a grinder, and lay in a coat of rust-inhibiting paint. (I'm also a body man... rust is my #1 enemy... especially in the upper midwest) wink

Yeah, I know the short-cuts... but when I feel like doing "quality" work, I do it this way. And sometimes doing it the "right" way... just takes longer. That's all I'm trying to say...

 

[SHO SPD]

ALL I HAVE TO SAY IS DAMN!!!!! my car was off 2 1/2 degrees in the front!!!!! and some in the rear... camber was 2 1/2 degrees I should say... thats a ton!!! I will get her back tomorrow at 11:00 am (my lunch!)

 

[sdpatt]

TopSHO92:
What's a PITA is when you don't have enough adjustment in the factory camber/caster adjustment slots. Then you have to remove the plate, lower the strut, and die-grind the slots for more adjustment, tighten it back up, lower the front end again and hope it's in spec. Otherwise, you have to keep on grinding away... And when I do it, I always clean the area around the ground slots/spotwelds with a grinder, and lay in a coat of rust-inhibiting paint

This was how I accomodated the Eibach-spring-induced camber change in my car. The limits to how far you can go with this method are 1) the inboard slot can only go as far as the existing hole for the strut itself and, 2) if you move the strut and spring too far outward, you get interference between the spring pad and the inside of the strut tower.

Scott

 

[TopSHO92]

sdpatt:
This was how I accomodated the Eibach-spring-induced camber change in my car. The limits to how far you can go with this method are 1) the inboard slot can only go as far as the existing hole for the strut itself and, 2) if you move the strut and spring too far outward, you get interference between the spring pad and the inside of the strut tower.

Scott

Exactly, Scott thumbs_u
Glad you know what I'm talking about wink

Brandyn~

<small>[ March 07, 2002, 10:49 PM: Message edited by: TopSHO92 ]</small>

 

[RStalveyARFF]

I got all the adjustment I needed out of mine and if you have the air chisel bit that I have, you warp the plate minimally. I'm just waiting for my special drill bit to arrive from northstar honestly. can't do the air chisel way to the gen III's 10 freakin welds!!!

 

[pjtoledo]

About drilling those welds,and the special drill bit. Just get an ordinary 1/2" bullet point drill bit. The center tip barely hits the strut tower as the outer edge breaks through the plate. Real easy.

Perry Toledo,Ohio