Wideband O2 with Tweecer R/t question

[Speedy_91_SHO]

I have a couple questions as far as getting a wideband O2. First, which one should I get? There is the NTK L1H1 and the Bosch LSU4, the bosch being signigantly cheaper. Another question is, with the Tweecer, do I need to get the controller or just the sensor? I just ordered the Tweecer today so I will have several tuning questions I am sure. TIA, Chris

 

[K-Dawg]

It seems that most SHO guys are going with the Bosch sensor. The PLX M300 seems to be the popular choice for a controller. To datalog with the TwEECer, you'll need the controller and sensor.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

I went with the PLX M-300. Comes with the Bosch sensor and the controller.
http://www.plxdevices.com/M-Series_productinfo.htm

SHOnut carries it. Thats where I ordered mine



You need both the sensor and the controller.

 

[Speedy_91_SHO]

Thanks for the quick replys guys .......that is what I figured, but I wasn't sure...wish I woulda know that when I ordered the Tweecer from SHOnut.

 

[K-Dawg]

I'm with Stoopid ^

Bought mine from SHONUT, too.

 

[Sho-Driver]

To add to the above, you will need a Data Q to adapt the WBO2 controller to work with your computer and the TwEECer data logging feature.

 

[RStalveyARFF]

Anyone have the same problem I do? ie: my laptop doesn't have serial ports. Gosh, do I look like Napoleon Dynamite or something? Idiots! Wondering if the Data Q has another model with USB interface.

 

[Sho-Driver]

You can buy and adapter that will convert the serial to USB.

 

[Speedy_91_SHO]

Would it work right if I get the 250? I already have an A/F gauge.Is the serial port the trapezoid(or whatever shape it is) lookin thing?

 

[twr]

Would it work right if I get the 250? I already have an A/F gauge.Is the serial port the trapezoid(or whatever shape it is) lookin thing?

Yep, looks like a monitor port, but female instead of male.

 

[ROB S]

We offer a wideband kit that acts as a standard gauge when you're not datalogging. This is fully compatible with the DataQ unit and is fully self contained.

http://www.midwestsho.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/99/products_id/275

 

[Bizzy]

Anyone have the same problem I do? ie: my laptop doesn't have serial ports. Gosh, do I look like Napoleon Dynamite or something? Idiots! Wondering if the Data Q has another model with USB interface.

You can buy an adapter for $11 on ebay shipped that will work

I had to do that with my new laptop. Just make sure you install the adapter as com1-com4 as the tweecer cant see the COM5 and up.

Also one word of advice, make sure the WBO2 is either on a switched power supply or you have to manually turn it on and off when you want to use it. Because it is a heated sensor it will drain your battery if left on, AS I FOUND OUT.

I will be wiring in a switch to turn off my PLX devices gauge too so I don't alway have to watch the flippy lights when I don't need WBO2, course I don't know when I wouldn't need it.

 

[SinisterSHO]

Hey, I did a search instead of starting a new thread, I get a cookie, right?

Has anyone wired their WBO2, so it acts as the factory narrowband sensor as well? What kind of results does this give? I remember reading somewhere about placement of the widebands, and wouldn't the factory location be too close? Any advantages to wiring it that way?

Also, I see Bruce mentioned he was going to switch the sensor, couldn't you just wire it into the ignition power, so its only on when the car is on?

 

[Speedy_91_SHO]

I talked to Josh T. at the convention...He said that me not wiring the wideband back in as a narroband was one of my problems. IIRC he said a third bung would be best. I haven't wired mine back in yet...haven't had time yet.

I believe bruce was going to put a switch on it so he wouldn't have to watch the annoying numbers all the time and only turn it on when he wants to use it.

 

[SinisterSHO]

Hey, I did a search instead of starting a new thread, I get a cookie, right?

Has anyone wired their WBO2, so it acts as the factory narrowband sensor as well? What kind of results does this give? I remember reading somewhere about placement of the widebands, and wouldn't the factory location be too close? Any advantages to wiring it that way?

Also, I see Bruce mentioned he was going to switch the sensor, couldn't you just wire it into the ignition power, so its only on when the car is on?

Anyone else?

 

[K-Dawg]

1. Wire it up separately and in its own bung. It'll save a lot of headache in the end.

2. Yeah, but the display may get annoying after a while.

 

[Axianator]

After discussing the merits of utilizing the PLX's narrowband output feature at length, Josh and I both basically agree that, whenever possible, it is better to utilize a seperate, dedicated bung for your wideband sensor rather than running it in place of the factory HEGO and letting the controller assume responsibility for feeding a simulated narrowband output back to the EEC. Other reasons for doing this include the (small bit of) work that is involved in adapting the controller's narrowband wiring to the facory HEGO harnesses (which can be acheived by chopping the HEGO connector off of an old factory sensor and modifying it for use with the PLX's narrowband wiring) and ensuring that the controller itself has a good ground reference that is both consistent and similar to what the EEC is seeing (so that the readings are as accurate as possible), which, depending on how **** you are, can be a pain in itself.

IOW, one can go the route of simulated narrowband if they wish; however, it is often easier (and more productive) to go the route of a seperate bung instead. Doing this will not only save you the hassle that is typically associated with getting the simulated narrowband setup to work properly, but you will be able to retain your factory HEGO's and ensure that your EEC is seeing a real narrowband signal rather than a simulated signal that could affect your fueling changes down the road.

As for sensor placement options and requirements, have a look at this recent post I made here.

Bruce's idea for wiring a switch into the controller's 12v power circuit is not a bad one at all, especially for those who are annoyed by the controller's LED readout or for those who have it mounted in such a spot where it can be a possible nuisance. Personally, I tapped the radio's 12v switched power circuit for my controller's power and mounted it snugly inside the factory console's cassette cubby behind the shifter. As a result, I've had no problems with obstructed views, bothersome read-outs or inaccurate air/fuel sampling.

 

[SHOZ123]

I assume you guys mount them after the exhuast goes to a single pipe?

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

No.

PLX recommends that it be installed much closer than that to the manifolds.

Typically it is installed in the front down pipe, just before the cat.

 

[SHOZ123]

That's good as my manifolds already have a bung for the secondary air injection.

Now the next question, how do you get a good reading on the other bank? Or do most people just use the one?