Hello all im looking for someone, preferably a shop, that still works in tuning first and second gen SHO Motors. As close to Michigan as possible and no i've tried livernois they don't do Second or first gen. Let me know, Thanks Ford folks 
Who still tunes second gen SHO's?
- Thread starter VQdude
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- aftermarket boost sho tuning
yaycandy
Aerospace Engineer
Standalone ECU for 89-95 (P.I.M.P)
http://www.stinger-performance.com/universalparts.html Check it out
shoforum.com
This ecu is popular, you can also use Tweecer from shonut, also a popular choice. My 90 has the old tune by mail chip
Pops Racing will still do remote tuning. I'm in the process of scheduling a session with Adam right now.
-Chad
-Chad
Nice, all I've seen so far is the Shonut Tweecer, but I thought it was a bit pricey for my minimum wage teenage bank account lolStandalone ECU for 89-95 (P.I.M.P)
http://www.stinger-performance.com/universalparts.html Check it out
This ecu is popular, you can also use Tweecer from shonut, also a popular choice. My 90 has the old tune by mail chip
Pops Racing huh? Never heard of them. What does a remote tuning entail?
luigisho
SHO Member
Pops has been around for a while. Haven't heard that name in a while. Good to know they are still doing it. I thought yamahaSHO was about the last remaining. He is or was in CO. You can always search for his username and drop him a line
That might be worth doing. I emailed SHOsource last week or so about a tranny cooler, but I'm assuming they're probably busy. Like me, honestly, with this economy
luigisho
SHO Member
Before you tune, how many mods do you have or are planning to have on this car? There is not alot to unlock unless you change the characteristics of the car. I've had about every bolt on there was over a long period of time. Looking for a few ponies 1-5hp is just sort of ******* in the wind for power. Boost it for noticable power and mo problems or, tweak it, improve suspension and brakes and enjoy the thing sorta as is. It's not like a choked off detuned v8 car. It's pretty much at the upper end of where it was designed to be. Great for the late 80's... meh compared to a 30yrs later modern car
I'd like to slowly modify to perform better until I can do something like forced induction at some point. Currently, I'm thinking of glass packs or exhaust cut-outs, a more efficient radiator, the SHO source silicone radiator hoses, and maybe a higher flow MAF, these seem easily achievable.
luigisho
SHO Member
I wouldn't waste my time with the MAF until you are pushing way more air. That just makes a tune required to run as normal as oem setup. What is the car supposed to be between now and whatever the end is? I had forced induction in my plans until a few years passed and I realized this is not the platform for that (just my opinion). Then I decided a few upgrades and I'll let mine be. Parts are hard enough to find without me breaking them on purpose.
I don't really have an end goal with it. I'm kinda just playing by ear, if that makes sense. I was considering forced induction as well, but just as an, "I might be able to do that" type thing. But yeah, that makes sense. I just want to get it running as well as I can, maybe a few more ponies here and there if I can, at least for now
luigisho
SHO Member
I get it.
Do the ones that don't require a tune until last. Exhaust stuff like y-pipe (although I'm not sure how CO does emissions), brakes, suspension etc. Really brakes and suspension were the things that made the most improvement that I could 'feel' and enjoy. If you have a manual transmission I would consider a 3.2 auto tra-ns motor for refresh and swap one day.
Do the ones that don't require a tune until last. Exhaust stuff like y-pipe (although I'm not sure how CO does emissions), brakes, suspension etc. Really brakes and suspension were the things that made the most improvement that I could 'feel' and enjoy. If you have a manual transmission I would consider a 3.2 auto tra-ns motor for refresh and swap one day.
I think Colorado changed emissions recently, but I was definitely thinking bigger brakes. Should I go with slotted or vented, or stick with the solid? And what suspension upgrades do you recommend? And I have the 93 atx, but sometimes it acts weird
RonPorter
SHO Club of America
Yes, a larger MAF, and the tune it requires, is a waste on a basically stock car, really until you get into forced induction.
And in considering forced induction, a properly modified ATX will cost as much as the rest of the parts.
Stay with solid rotors. Besides being cheaper, they work better. Holes/grooves/slots are for cruise night bling. Getting GOOD brakes pads will make the brakes work quite a bit better. Then there are various upgrade steps after that.
And in considering forced induction, a properly modified ATX will cost as much as the rest of the parts.
Stay with solid rotors. Besides being cheaper, they work better. Holes/grooves/slots are for cruise night bling. Getting GOOD brakes pads will make the brakes work quite a bit better. Then there are various upgrade steps after that.
luigisho
SHO Member
I would do a cobra brake upgrade. there is a '96+ SHO front brake upgrade done out there also. Cobra's may require a larger wheel for clearance so look into that before you pull the trigger on a setup. I am sure shosource or shonut has adapter plates to make these work. For me, rotors for looks can have slots but solids work just fine. The upsize and pad material will make it stop better.
Suspension I would look at all the bushings, see what they look like and attack those if needed. Subframe connectors I always liked for stiffness and good places to jack the car up. Front strut tower bar can tighten up the front end a little also. I haven't bought these items in years so you will have to look around for who still sells them.
Keep an eye on motor mounts as they like to wear out and allow sloppy movement under the hood.
For emissions they used to hook up the tailpipe but everyone says they just plug into the computer most places. Good luck to them with OBDI in the older cars. It may only fail if there is an emissions code in the computer and who know if they even have code readers for cars that old. I don't have emissions in my area so don't have to worry about this.
I was still typing when Ron posted. Agree with him on pads and obviously MAF/tuning
Suspension I would look at all the bushings, see what they look like and attack those if needed. Subframe connectors I always liked for stiffness and good places to jack the car up. Front strut tower bar can tighten up the front end a little also. I haven't bought these items in years so you will have to look around for who still sells them.
Keep an eye on motor mounts as they like to wear out and allow sloppy movement under the hood.
For emissions they used to hook up the tailpipe but everyone says they just plug into the computer most places. Good luck to them with OBDI in the older cars. It may only fail if there is an emissions code in the computer and who know if they even have code readers for cars that old. I don't have emissions in my area so don't have to worry about this.
I was still typing when Ron posted. Agree with him on pads and obviously MAF/tuning
How do I get it modified? Could I do it myself? Should I get bigger calipers?
I've been looking at everything on Jegs atm, and it looks like they'll have stiffer subframe bushings. I'd also like to get a really good radiator because I live in the Colorado desert, but I don't know how to pick one.
When I replaced the front tires, they were a little wiggly. I think I'll do all the bushings, as well as some new struts if I could. Then I could get some 17s for larger rotors and calipers, right? Although I really like the look of the original slicer wheels.
Should I get solid motor mounts?
luigisho
SHO Member
The front tires with slop may be wheel bearings. Make sure the wheel is on at correct tightness, jack up the end to be tested, grab the wheel at 6&12 and 3&9 push and pull to see if there is movement at the center. These cars have a press fit bearing and not just a bolt in and out wheel bearing. You might need a press or shadetree setup to pound it out and in with replacement. I would look at shosource for most items. They usually have good sourced replacement parts and upgraded parts. Solid mounts will transfer alot of NVH - noise vibration harshness. They may have reinforced ones with some urethane or other polymer to help reduce vibrations. Struts are hard to decide what is good as all the really good ones aren't really made anymore. My main pet peeve about these cars now is strut choices. Look at the strut mounts and you could add those to the list of spending money...
For larger brakes you have to check for clearance of the oem wheels and decide based on that. You can source alot of the parts yourself or buy a kit. There are alot of how to's on the forum for this kind of stuff. Based on rust, and whether you have power tools, all this may involve alot of cursing.
For larger brakes you have to check for clearance of the oem wheels and decide based on that. You can source alot of the parts yourself or buy a kit. There are alot of how to's on the forum for this kind of stuff. Based on rust, and whether you have power tools, all this may involve alot of cursing.
