Hello all im looking for someone, preferably a shop, that still works in tuning first and second gen SHO Motors. As close to Michigan as possible and no i've tried livernois they don't do Second or first gen. Let me know, Thanks Ford folks
Nice, all I've seen so far is the Shonut Tweecer, but I thought it was a bit pricey for my minimum wage teenage bank account lol
That might be worth doing. I emailed SHOsource last week or so about a tranny cooler, but I'm assuming they're probably busy. Like me, honestly, with this economyPops has been around for a while. Haven't heard that name in a while. Good to know they are still doing it. I thought yamahaSHO was about the last remaining. He is or was in CO. You can always search for his username and drop him a line
I'd like to slowly modify to perform better until I can do something like forced induction at some point. Currently, I'm thinking of glass packs or exhaust cut-outs, a more efficient radiator, the SHO source silicone radiator hoses, and maybe a higher flow MAF, these seem easily achievable.Before you tune, how many mods do you have or are planning to have on this car? There is not alot to unlock unless you change the characteristics of the car. I've had about every bolt on there was over a long period of time. Looking for a few ponies 1-5hp is just sort of ******* in the wind for power. Boost it for noticable power and mo problems or, tweak it, improve suspension and brakes and enjoy the thing sorta as is. It's not like a choked off detuned v8 car. It's pretty much at the upper end of where it was designed to be. Great for the late 80's... meh compared to a 30yrs later modern car
I don't really have an end goal with it. I'm kinda just playing by ear, if that makes sense. I was considering forced induction as well, but just as an, "I might be able to do that" type thing. But yeah, that makes sense. I just want to get it running as well as I can, maybe a few more ponies here and there if I can, at least for nowI wouldn't waste my time with the MAF until you are pushing way more air. That just makes a tune required to run as normal as oem setup. What is the car supposed to be between now and whatever the end is? I had forced induction in my plans until a few years passed and I realized this is not the platform for that (just my opinion). Then I decided a few upgrades and I'll let mine be. Parts are hard enough to find without me breaking them on purpose.
How do I get it modified? Could I do it myself? Should I get bigger calipers?Yes, a larger MAF, and the tune it requires, is a waste on a basically stock car, really until you get into forced induction.
And in considering forced induction, a properly modified ATX will cost as much as the rest of the parts.
Stay with solid rotors. Besides being cheaper, they work better. Holes/grooves/slots are for cruise night bling. Getting GOOD brakes pads will make the brakes work quite a bit better. Then there are various upgrade steps after that.
I've been looking at everything on Jegs atm, and it looks like they'll have stiffer subframe bushings. I'd also like to get a really good radiator because I live in the Colorado desert, but I don't know how to pick one.I would do a cobra brake upgrade. there is a '96+ SHO front brake upgrade done out there also. Cobra's may require a larger wheel for clearance so look into that before you pull the trigger on a setup. I am sure shosource or shonut has adapter plates to make these work. For me, rotors for looks can have slots but solids work just fine. The upsize and pad material will make it stop better.
Suspension I would look at all the bushings, see what they look like and attack those if needed. Subframe connectors I always liked for stiffness and good places to jack the car up. Front strut tower bar can tighten up the front end a little also. I haven't bought these items in years so you will have to look around for who still sells them.
Keep an eye on motor mounts as they like to wear out and allow sloppy movement under the hood.
For emissions they used to hook up the tailpipe but everyone says they just plug into the computer most places. Good luck to them with OBDI in the older cars. It may only fail if there is an emissions code in the computer and who know if they even have code readers for cars that old. I don't have emissions in my area so don't have to worry about this.
I was still typing when Ron posted. Agree with him on pads and obviously MAF/tuning