when lowering your sho

[n8rsk8r]

do you need to add a bumsteer kit, or offset bushings like you do on a stang? Wondering because I want to add a coilover for the car soon. It only makes since that you would have to. I dunno, let me know.

n8rsk8r

 

[yamahaSHO]

You have to drill out the spot welds on the camper correction plates and relocate them.

 

[n8rsk8r]

thanks!

I will remember that!, is this something you have done yourself?

n8rsk8r

 

[Hack]

You can shim the steering rack to help combat bumpsteer. It does not eliminate the problem, but helps a bit.

 

[Shoaz]

Yeah, you wouldn't want to give a bumsteer to those campers with their correction plates.



Sorry, had to do that...

 

[djsSHO]

 

[n8rsk8r]

thanks

I was reading that the kit from midwestsho lowers your car some 2.75", sounds good guys, I will let you know when I get er done

n8rsk8r

 

[SHOguy 92]

Yeah you can drop it 2.75, but be ready for TONS of suspension work. I'd say DEFINEATLY new struts, koni's or tokico's. Also all new bushings, swaybar endlinks, strut mounts, tie rod ends, and any other maintence you can get out of the way. And thats for starters, rear control arms would be nice too, then alignment, lots of places won't drill the spot welds and if they will it's $$$.

 

[SHO92]

Be prepared to replace Axles on a regular basis too, the CV joint doesn't like to be at an angle much more than what the Eibach/Koni bring it to.

 

[SHOkid13]

Personally, I wouldn't recomend drilling the spot welds... It isn't a good mod since it doesn't fully adjust the camber back into the proper specs. I did it on mine and I am still way out of spec. AND mine only has eibach springs, you're talking about dropping much further than mine is. I'm in the process of getting some camber correction kits for the front and rear.

This place seems like they have pretty kewl stuff, good deals, and good sales support:

http://www.prosuspension.com/taurusgb.htm

I'm not sure if their kit will be able completely compensate for how much you'll be lowering your car, however.

Just a side-note-comment: Have you driven in a taurii with coil overs? Like others have said, get ready for a lot of work to make everything stay together and keep the maintenance up. Also, the ride is rediculously harsh (the car I was in had 600lb/in front springs [and ~400lb/in? rears]) and had a nasty habbit of bouncing. The fairly new konis weren't able to keep up with the spring rate. And, as you can imagine, bouncing doesn't make for good traction.

But, on the other hand, some people like to bounce along. Kind of like cheap hydraulics...

 

[MilTownSHO]

Personally, I wouldn't recomend drilling the spot welds... It isn't a good mod since it doesn't fully adjust the camber back into the proper specs. I did it on mine and I am still way out of spec. AND mine only has eibach springs, you're talking about dropping much further than mine is. I'm in the process of getting some camber correction kits for the front and rear.

With my Intrax the front is not completey in spec but its not wearing at all do to the cross camber being done properly. The rear does have a camber kit installed though.

 

[n8rsk8r]

good stuff guys thanks! I don't think I would drop it the full way, there are to many speed bumps in my daily driving to do that, but all your suggestions are helping me decide what to do, I think what I will do first is devise a weather altering machine, so I can make sure I don't get rained out like I did today, you can make killer money painting, but if it rains your sittin on you backside! LOL but seriously thanks, I will let you know what I end up doing,

But, on the other hand, some people like to bounce along. Kind of like cheap hydraulics...
your killing me man! :lol
nahan

 

[shojuan]

Personally, I wouldn't recomend drilling the spot welds... It isn't a good mod since it doesn't fully adjust the camber back into the proper specs. I did it on mine and I am still way out of spec.

You probably have more front end suspension bits in need of replacement.

 

[yamahaSHO]

You probably have more front end suspension bits in need of replacement.

I would second that..

 

[AutoSHO]

If you've got the spot welds drilled out, and that ~3/4" of adjustment range still can't get your car back into spec, something is seriously wrong with your car. My previous SHO was dropped nearly 3" and was in spec with the spot welds drilled. The Eibachs hardly lower the car in comparison, and you shouldn't be seeing any alignment problems with just that much drop.

 

[ThrillSHO]

Shave your bushings

With coilovers on, I dropped my SHO VERY low for track use - so low it wouldn't clear a dead squirrel. Like others have said, you need to correct your steering and drive axle geometry to avoid bump steer and premature wear of CV joints. You can address both of these issues at the same time by shaving your sub-frame bushings. This has the effect of raising the engine/tranny/steering rack up into the engine bay offsetting some of the effects of lowering the car. Start with standard size aluminum subframe bushings. The upper half is around 1 inch thick. You can shave 3/8ths inch with no clearance issues. If you shave 1/2" (like I did) the intake madifold will rub the hood pad. You will need to modify the hood to shave further - good excuse for a cowl-induction hood! Also the steering rack starts getting VERY close to the firewall - I'm not sure how much further you could go. Another benefit: you gain a little ground clearance at your subframe and cats without raising the car. The down-side: you have to lower the subframe to change the rack or the swaybar otherwise it's a good solution.

 

[SHOfun 93]

Good tip! If i just shave the bushings, and have a cowl hood presently being painted, will I have issues when I go to REALLY get low with the IPT coilovers when they get swapped over? How exactly do I shave them? Will I need to take them to a machine shop or something?