Wheel alignment

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SHO_DOODmorrris

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Hey guys,
I was just wondering, now that my SHO is lowered, would any of the caster, camber, and toe specs need to be changed? if so by how much? what specs are you guys running on your lowered sho? thanks

-Mitch
 

SHO_DOODmorrris

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Sooo... update...
Threw my car on the hoist after calibrating our 20 year old electronic wheel alignment machine and came out with some nasty figures...
L R
Caster: +5.64 +7.63 (yikes)
Camber:+3.xx +2.xx (another yikes)
Toe dont remember but its toed out like almost 2 inches...

As it sits right now i adjusted it to:

L R
Caster:+4.22 +5.6
Camber:+.72 +.72


The machine said i had an overall pull of .28 to the left or right, cant remember and i dont know if it included the road crown pull of .5 degree's right. either way my car is effed up!

-M
 

spee-d

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i do`nt know off the top of my head what spec should be. lets see, camber is not to bad at +.72 -.72 would be great but it is what it is. on my car i took a carbide bit and made the square holes a little bigger got the specs i wanted and put it back together. the right alingment shop could do whatever you want them to do. you made it better now just go all the way and grind it once you put the top plate on no one will ever know and i won`t tell anybody.
 

Mr Anonymous

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What the **** is wrong with your suspension?

A lowered car should have too much NEGATIVE camber, not positive.

Something ain't right. :nut:
 

SHO_DOODmorrris

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What the **** is wrong with your suspension?

A lowered car should have too much NEGATIVE camber, not positive.

Something ain't right. :nut:

... my bad lol. my memory is fading at my old age of 16... Its negative not positive.

I do`nt know off the top of my head what spec should be. lets see, camber is not to bad at +.72 -.72 would be great but it is what it is. on my car i took a carbide bit and made the square holes a little bigger got the specs i wanted and put it back together. the right alingment shop could do whatever you want them to do. you made it better now just go all the way and grind it once you put the top plate on no one will ever know and i won`t tell anybody.

Spec is -.5
As for the hole enlargment, i had to do that to just get it in the acceptable range...
The whole idea of me doing my alignment was for me to save money but so far 100 bucks or so is looking better than me continueing to fiddle with stuff.

Mr Anonymous, Would ne strut tod bushings help my caster?

-Mitch
 

spee-d

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-.72 is good. what i would do is get caster close you want a .25 lead on the right side for the road crown. then toe it in a hair more then spec so you do`nt wear the tires. if the strut rods are bad you`ll know. $100 where the **** do you get your alingments done that`s highway robbery lol.
 

SHO_DOODmorrris

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My toe is set to -1/32 on both wheels which is the preffered spec.road crown is .5 BTW. so i would want a .5 lead on the right side. i got my caster fixed better today though, its at about

L 4.2 R 4.5
camber is at
L-.8 and -.8
Toe is at
-1/32 on both wheels.
its pretty damn close so i aint touching it any more.

-M
 

spee-d

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My toe is set to -1/32 on both wheels which is the preffered spec.road crown is .5 BTW. so i would want a .5 lead on the right side. i got my caster fixed better today though, its at about

L 4.2 R 4.5
camber is at
L-.8 and -.8
Toe is at
-1/32 on both wheels.
its pretty damn close so i aint touching it any more.

-M

that`s awsome.
 

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