What size tires with eibach/koni 17"

[St Louis SHO]

Right now with stock sagged springs my 225/50/17's rub, I need to roll the quarter edge, but do need tires soon, what would be the best with koni/eibach? I have Mille Miglia Actions 17x (8?) I'm not 100% on the width. If you guys have any close-up pics of what you're running that'd be great.

Thanks in advance

James

 

[strings1732]

either a 225/45 or a 235/45. You might be able to get away with a 245/40 if the rim is an 8" the 235 will fit with minor issues even if it is a 7" rim width.

 

[jedhead]

I have 235/45WR-17 Yokohama's on my 17X8 wheels. I had to cut and roll the rear fenders in order for the tires to clear. I plan on mounting 225/45-17 on my TD's which are 17X7.5

Bob

 

[Eric VerValin]

I bet those wider tires are worth their weight in gold? I was just thinking about that browsing the Eneki site... hmmm

 

[SASHO91]

Here's another option...
http://search.stores.ebay.com/2-Day...sooZ1QQfsopZ3QQftsZ2QQsaselZ172177638QQsofpZ0

 

[dmoo21]

i run 225/45/17's with my konis and intrax

fuzion ZRi if you wanted to know

close up? way unsettled springs FTL

 

[BlackandBlue]

I would stay with 225/50R17. They fill up the wheel well the best and offer a better ride. I have 225/50R17 Pilot A/S's with Eibachs and I have very little fender gap.

 

[dmoo21]

if i had to do it again i would go with 50 series tires

 

[jedhead]

the main reason for me not to go with 225/50-17 was the lack of summer only and competition tires. My SHO sits a little higher with 235/45-17 than it did with 225/50-16 with slicers that I had before.





Bob

 

[Brent]

I have the 235/45/17 yokohama avs sports for the summer and they fill the 17x7.5 with no problems in the stock size wheel wells with the tokico and eibachs.

 

[K-Dawg]

My car is about as low as you can realistically go and my 225/50/17s never rub.

 

[strings1732]

I've got linears and koni's and I've spaced everything to where it is as high as possibly can be and I rub with 235/45/17's. and it's not a once in a while thing it's an every time I hit a bump thing. I've spaced the subframe bushings so the subframe sits lower and the body sits higher and I've spaced the strut bearings in the front too. I'm not as low as I could be and I still rub constantly.

 

[cmichaelo]

I've got linears and koni's and I've spaced everything to where it is as high as possibly can be and I rub with 235/45/17's. and it's not a once in a while thing it's an every time I hit a bump thing. I've spaced the subframe bushings so the subframe sits lower and the body sits higher and I've spaced the strut bearings in the front too. I'm not as low as I could be and I still rub constantly.

Do you know where it rubs?

What is the width and the offset on your rims?

Are you using spacers on the rear?

Michael

 

[strings1732]

It rubs front and back on both sides. The rear fenders have been rolled but need to be cut and rolled again. I have a 38mm offset and it is a 7 inch wide rim(fittipaldi flames ). I'm not using spacers on the rear and it still sits higher than the front. the car has a nice rake to it and looks good still. As the tires wear down the rubbing quits happening as often until the tires are at about a little less than half tread, the rubbing stops unless bigger bumps are hit.

 

[K-Dawg]

That's also a Gen 1, no?

 

[strings1732]

That's also a Gen 1, no?

DING DING DING! we have a weener!!! I was waiting for someone to ask that question. yes it's on a gen I, which I know has less clearance than the gen II's. But I still figured I'd tell about my rubbing issues. that's also why I stated to go with the 235/45 or even a 245/45 because he would have more clearance with the gen II. I've seen a 255 shoved in the wheel well of a gen II and a 245 shoved in on a gen I without rubbing, but with major fender trimming/rolling.

 

[Yamaha V6]

Exactly. It's all about offsets on the wheels, and keep in mind EVERY 235/45-17 tire is NOT exactly the same width.

I have 17x8's on my Gen 1, with 245/45-17's, & Eibachs. The fronts, no problem. The rears, no problems if the car's empty & < 1/2 tank gas. The rears have been trimmed & lightly rolled, more is necessary. Did not rub at all on a Gen 2.

If 225's are rubbing, the wheel offsets are all wrong. Look at how much room you have between the tire & the strut tube.

 

[K-Dawg]

Did not rub at all on a Gen 2.

With or without spacers?

 

[cmichaelo]

DING DING DING! we have a weener!!! I was waiting for someone to ask that question. yes it's on a gen I, which I know has less clearance than the gen II's. But I still figured I'd tell about my rubbing issues. that's also why I stated to go with the 235/45 or even a 245/45 because he would have more clearance with the gen II. I've seen a 255 shoved in the wheel well of a gen II and a 245 shoved in on a gen I without rubbing, but with major fender trimming/rolling.

Yeah, gen I a more of a challenge in the rear. Though I never understood what the issue is up front. The one time I looked at a gen I up front, it seemed to look pretty much like a gen II. I'm curious what the difference is and where exactly you are seeing the rubbing.

Wrt to the rear, the following advice, which will work on a gen II, may be of help to you:

I have 235 series tires on 8.5" rims with a 44.5mm offset AND I have 20mm spacers on the rear. This is on a gen II.

Initially I had rubbing even after removing all of the fender lip.

Turned out I hadn't removed that part of the fender lip located just behind the rear door and which overlaps with the molding. I had also tappered the lip, as it is coming down from the top, so that I had a graceful mating to the molding. Well, I redid this whole molding section...basically removed the molding part of the lip too. I had to relocate the little nut the holds the molding in place on the lip down by, I would say, ~4" or so. That did the trick.

It sort of always annoyed me that Ford didn't center the rear wheel in the wheel well. Why did they push it forwards? It looks like a half-done job.

FWIW.

Michael

 

[strings1732]

Yeah, gen I a more of a challenge in the rear. Though I never understood what the issue is up front. The one time I looked at a gen I up front, it seemed to look pretty much like a gen II. I'm curious what the difference is and where exactly you are seeing the rubbing.

Wrt to the rear, the following advice, which will work on a gen II, may be of help to you:

I have 235 series tires on 8.5" rims with a 44.5mm offset AND I have 20mm spacers on the rear. This is on a gen II.

Initially I had rubbing even after removing all of the fender lip.

Turned out I hadn't removed that part of the fender lip located just behind the rear door and which overlaps with the molding. I had also tappered the lip, as it is coming down from the top, so that I had a graceful mating to the molding. Well, I redid this whole molding section...basically removed the molding part of the lip too. I had to relocate the little nut the holds the molding in place on the lip down by, I would say, ~4" or so. That did the trick.

It sort of always annoyed me that Ford didn't center the rear wheel in the wheel well. Why did they push it forwards? It looks like a half-done job.

FWIW.

Michael

I've actually done the same thing you did. I rolled the lip in the rear, shaved the trim and bent the screw(that holds the trim) out of the way. I don't rub there now. I rub on the very top where I haven't rolled/cut the fender enough. the front is easy to figure out. I know exactly where it rubs on both gen I's and gen II's(where applicable) the fender has some tabs on it to hold the fender lining up. The middle one(at the very top of the wheel well) is where the tire rubs. When this screw is in place it rubs even more. I took my drivers side screw(and fender lining) out and it doesn't rub nearly as much now. If I were to bend or remove the tabs on the fender, I don't think I would rub anymore.

which brings me to one of my crazy ideas I've thought about. Looking at some of the 350Z wide body kits out there (something like this) , I've always wondered if I could find flares that would match the Gen I SHO well enough to put them on. Something that basically bolted on and looked decent. If you got it in urethane they could possibly be molded with heat to fit better. That would not add much weight, and you could run a wider tire with less offset on your rims. Maybe even add a spacer/adapter to run mustang rims so you would have more options on widths and sizes. if you did this, you could also run some lightweight race rims with some fat drag slicks/track tires on the car. Which in turn would make traction less of an issue. on top of that, if you painted the flares to match the car it would look decent IMHO. I mean not quite as good as the wide bodied gen II(showya?) but still good, you know? I'm always looking to see if I can find something that would work. Once installing these, obviously the metal on the fender would be trimmed and rolled as to make more room for the tires, so the flares would be on for the long haul.