What is the name of this pipe?

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kryptto

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Connected to the throttle body and part of the noisemaker delete:

1683571263819
 

Texas Marauder

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This is the correct part to delete the noisemaker. I have no idea why "coolant" is in the description.

1683586348535
 

kryptto

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Thanks Texas much appreciated however I was looking for the name which you shared but is wrong as u stated: lol gotta love part descriptions.

I installed the Eco Power aluminum part. I have to say mine was pretty oily inside and underneath. Anyone know if that is normalish? I have noticed all my cold or hot pipes are pretty oily inside.

Thanks!



2014 Ford Taurus SHO PP - Catless Downpipes - 3BAR MAP - Ford Performance Spark Plugs Colder Range - K&N CAD, Reisch 170, HP Tuned, Accel Coil Pack, Chrome Delete - Android Auto Nav System
 
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skyshadow07

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Yeah, that is common. You have oil pushing past the turbo seals as well as crank case pressure being recirculated back into the engine. Unfortunately that oil (if not addressed) will build up on your valves as carbon and eventually cause problems.
 

WarrenBoostit

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Yeah, that is common. You have oil pushing past the turbo seals as well as crank case pressure being recirculated back into the engine. Unfortunately that oil (if not addressed) will build up on your valves as carbon and eventually cause problems.
Does injector cleaner count as addressed :( What mileage would you guesstimate you tend to see this problems? Do they tend to manifest as higher LTFT numbers or high KR?

Also very unrelated but how do you add signatures? Still haven't managed to figure it out
 

kryptto

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Yeah, that is common. You have oil pushing past the turbo seals as well as crank case pressure being recirculated back into the engine. Unfortunately that oil (if not addressed) will build up on your valves as carbon and eventually cause problems.
yeah my fear as well.
 

kryptto

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Does injector cleaner count as addressed :( What mileage would you guesstimate you tend to see this problems? Do they tend to manifest as higher LTFT numbers or high KR?

Also very unrelated but how do you add signatures? Still haven't managed to figure it out
Signatures - I had one - it disappeared - until I paid then got it back.
 

ridered74

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Does injector cleaner count as addressed :( What mileage would you guesstimate you tend to see this problems? Do they tend to manifest as higher LTFT numbers or high KR?

Also very unrelated but how do you add signatures? Still haven't managed to figure it out

I think there is a minimum number of posts before you can have a signature, but I don't remember what that number is.
 

kryptto

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I did see in the general forum this discussion. TBH I never read far enough to get to the answer...

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SM105K

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I think there is a minimum number of posts before you can have a signature, but I don't remember what that number is.
Pretty sure it is like 150 for something near those lines.
 

J persons

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Does injector cleaner count as addressed :( What mileage would you guesstimate you tend to see this problems? Do they tend to manifest as higher LTFT numbers or high KR?

Also very unrelated but how do you add signatures? Still haven't managed to figure it out
Injector cleaner won't do anything about the oil coating the insides of the pipes, since these engines are direct injected. About six months ago, I installed an air/oil separator. I finally got around to checking how much oil it collected and it was only about a teaspoon worth for 6K miles. I have about 60K on my mostly adult driven '14 SHO.
 

skyshadow07

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As already mentioned, injector cleaner will not help because our cars are direct injection. That means the fuel is injected post valve, directly in to the cylinder. A valve cleaner like CRC or even installing meth injection will help clean the valves.
There is no set mileage or heat range, etc that causes the carbon build up. I bought my SHO at 89,000 and it has build up. I ran meth (80/20) from 96k to 110k and its all gone.
 

onanysunday

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I found that an articulating borescope fits perfectly through the MAP sensor hole directly on top of the intake, allowing you to get a good glimpse of the amount of carbon build-up on back of the intake valves without having to disassemble anything besides the one torx screw holding the sensor in place. Highly recommended for these engines and intake designs. What this does is that it can help give you an idea of whether or not something like CRC Intake Valve and Turbo cleaner is a good idea (if the build-up is mild) or a bad idea if the build-up is severe in which case intake disassembly and walnut blasting -or manual removal- is a better choice to avoid larger amounts of carbon from getting into and score the combustion chambers or damaging the turbos. Also, not a bad idea to run some Lucas Upper Cylinder **** in your gas (and a box fan on high) on a colder day when attempting the spray method.
 

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