What else does i need

[SHOCH]

I can't give any experience with this, but logic tells me it's like trying a car to trailer. You should tie the wheels down so the suspension can take the bumps, if you tie the car down tight the struts are compressed and work harder no? I would think the strut just wouldn't last as long, living in a more than expected/engineered compressed state.
How do you drive, do you track the car, are your road as ****** as Shocago, all things that matter.

 

[Mr95Gl]

I had a set Monroe's (new) on Intrax (cut) for a short time. On smooth road, they were fine. On rough roads, the Monroe's could not keep up, and they bottomed out very easily. I'd only recommend them for Eibachs since it's a proven working combo. Intrax, not so much. . .

 

[jayro]

I had a set Monroe's (new) on Intrax (cut) for a short time. On smooth road, they were fine. On rough roads, the Monroe's could not keep up, and they bottomed out very easily. I'd only recommend them for Eibachs since it's a proven working combo. Intrax, not so much. . .

Thanks for the input. Do you feel there would have been less of a problem id the springs were not cut? It is my understanding that Monroes only work well on uncut springs. Don't the Monroes have a lifetime warranty as well?

Jeremy

 

[jthod]

Don't waste your time and money on the adjustable mounts. Not knowing what you are going to do with the car, you should be able to get all of the adjustment you need out of the strut tower plates. I went with Ford mounts and bearings from SHONut, but that's me.

Not always. I've got Eibachs and Monroes, new front mounts and bearings for a '90. With the strut plates loose, I was still unable to get the camber out far enough. IIRC, they are still off about 3-5 degrees.

1. Spray the **** out of those pinch bolts with penetrating something, PB, Kroil/ATF, anything...
2. Use a torch.
3. New bolts.

I broke the head off of one of the rears, and fought it for hours. I had to drill all the way through the bolt and just used a nut and bolt.

 

[Mr95Gl]

Thanks for the input. Do you feel there would have been less of a problem id the springs were not cut? It is my understanding that Monroes only work well on uncut springs. Don't the Monroes have a lifetime warranty as well?

Jeremy

It's possible, but I'm not sure. I think people have had good results with cut Eibachs and Monroes.

Since they do have a lifetime warranty, you could warranty them each time they went bad. To much of a hassle though.

 

[Mike93]

I can't give any experience with this, but logic tells me it's like trying a car to trailer. You should tie the wheels down so the suspension can take the bumps, if you tie the car down tight the struts are compressed and work harder no? I would think the strut just wouldn't last as long, living in a more than expected/engineered compressed state.
How do you drive, do you track the car, are your road as ****** as Shocago, all things that matter.

While I agree with the concept behind what you're saying here...I can counterpoint by stating I have been running lowering springs on my stock shocks and struts on my Mustang for 13 years now, with great results. Now at 120K on the suspension I am just recently feeling the need to replace the shocks/struts. Granted, this is on a different car...

 

[Sho Amo]

im at around 20k on my sensatrac/sslinear setup. the only reason i want to ditch them is for adjustability.

 

[Art5]

I had eibachs with KYB and it was fine until for about 4 month, then they become softer and ride becomes rougher on bad roads. Right now I have KONI with old shoshop springs and they work a lot better, **** a lot better, and I also have another set of MOOG springs that i want to cut coil or two off and also use them with KONI on my other car. So far I thinks KOni are the best.
I am actually thinking about some airbags too, but just for softer ride.

 

[warmonger]

they may SEEM fine..but if you were to run a "proper" setup i'd be willing to bet you'd notice where your setup isnt the ideal setup