Well I finally let my friend drive the SHO to lunch and it started rianing alittle and I told him my tires suck in the rian, but he didn't listen. When he went to take a corner going alittle fast the frontend slid and he hit a curb. After slappin him in the head we got out and looked at it and now my passenger side tire has too much toe to it. I'm thinking the tie rod, but could the knuckle have bent also? What would be the best things to look at? He's paying for half of it and I'm pickin up the other half. As for the rim, it's not hurt much, but scratched some.
what could cause this?
- Thread starter 97V8SHO
- Start date
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Mr Anonymous
Tire Wall
I would suspect either a inner/outer tie rod/end problem, a bent a-arm, or even a bent wheel before suspecting a bent knuckle. In any case, this is something you want a good front-end shop or a body shop to look at really closely.
Tim Rice
New Member
find a good front end guy
Mr. A is right on the money, if you can find a shop that has a "road force" balancer (with someone who knows how to use it), this thing is great, it measures run-out on the wheel and tire and match mounts both, you'll find out quick if any damage to wheel, have all 4 done, you wont believe how smooth the ride will be, my guess would be tie rod ends also
Timmayh
Mr. A is right on the money, if you can find a shop that has a "road force" balancer (with someone who knows how to use it), this thing is great, it measures run-out on the wheel and tire and match mounts both, you'll find out quick if any damage to wheel, have all 4 done, you wont believe how smooth the ride will be, my guess would be tie rod ends also
Timmayh
Mr. SHO
New Member
OK, add me to the list of people who suspect inner and/or outer tie rod ends. I posted my results after changing both inner and outer ends on both sides a couple weeks ago. If you are handy, you can do it yourself for about $150 and 2 hours of your time. The $150 includes $50 for the inner tie rod end tool, which you will need to buy or borrow (note: AutoZone doesn't have this tool on loan.)
And you were on the right track when you smacked your "friend" upside the head. Keep doing that every two seconds for a few months.
And you were on the right track when you smacked your "friend" upside the head. Keep doing that every two seconds for a few months.
Do you guys know what a good brand for the tie rods would be? My mom works at DANA and her plant makes tierods for most any car, the brand is Spicer. So she can get them at cost. Should I replace anything else while I'm down there doing the rods? Does anyone have a diagram of the rack & pinion so I can see how all of this goes before I get down and dirty with it?
PS: I'm getting new rims here in about a month so should I just wiat to get it checked by a "road force" machine if anyone around here even has one?
PS: I'm getting new rims here in about a month so should I just wiat to get it checked by a "road force" machine if anyone around here even has one?
Mr Anonymous
Tire Wall
Mr. SHO said:
Sure they do, just ask for OEM part # 27024. Should be a $30 deposit, refunded when you return the tool. You can also buy the tool on eBay for around $10 + shipping.
Mr Anonymous
Tire Wall
97V8SHO said:
Any name-brand tie rods are fine IMHO. Lifetime warranties are always good too.
You'll want inner and outer tie rod ends (I recommend doing both sides at the same time since you're paying for a new alignment no matter what, and with varying play in at least the outers on both sides between new and old, you might see slightly faster wear), a grease gun (unless you buy OEM Ford outers which are pre-greased and sealed), possibly boots if they're damaged (rare), at least new inner boot clamps (just use plain old hose clamps, because you'll never get the Oetiker tool in there with the subframe installed!), and tools.
Again, I would still recommend having a pro look at the front end geometry to make sure that nothing else is bent/damaged. Try looking over at SHOTimes for a graphic of a V6 rack & pinion set up. The V8 is essentially the same in terms of component locations and such, just the part numbers are different.
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