Weird popping/lack of power

[c_olcott]

Yesterday while driving to the pound (looking to adopt a puppy ) I heard an odd pop sound from my engine. The sound came as I was making a left turn. Right after hearing that sound the enigne became quite unresponsive. There was a major loss of power and the exhaust sound was changed dramatically. Everytime I press the gas while at a low rpm I hear the poping sound now. I have tried replacing the original maf and removing my LPM, took a look at my front 3 spark plug's (not enough time to check the rear one's today). I did a cylinder test. Got a 9 which is all good. Lastly I ran my codes. This was my first time running codes so I don't know exactly how it works but this is what my CE light flashed.

1 1 1 1 1 1 4 1 4

I'm not sure what that means, but I am going to guess that it is this

1-11-11-14-14

and that the 11's mean one test came back with no problems and the 14's are "PIP circuit failure"

If I am way off base with this someone please let me know. Also if it does mean I have a PIP circuit failure. What is a PIP cicuit and where can I find it?

Any other ideas on what could be causing this noise/lack of power are greatly apprciated.

BTW: I am also having a fairly major water leak on the pass side. I will post a picture of where the water leaks in when I get a chance. I'm not sure if these are connected but I figure if the PIP circuit is somewhere in that area, than the water leak my be the cause.

<small>[ July 13, 2003, 05:14 PM: Message edited by: c_olcott ]</small>

 

[Machspeed]

Kinda sounds like you need a 60k, cps and waterpump dont seem to be doing to good, thats my opinion.

 

[c_olcott]

Oh to clarify one thing. The water leak iss only when it is raining or I go through the car wash. It isn't water leaking from the engine.

 

[masho95]

c_olcott:
...this is what my CE light flashed.

1 1 1 1 1 1 4 1 4

I'm not sure what that means, but I am going to guess that it is this

1-11-11-14-14

Almost perfect on the translation. Actual translation should be:

11-11-1-14-14
The first two show all ok in continuous test mode. The single one is a seperator code and seperates the codes between continuous and stored mode. The 14 indicates a PIP signal failure. This code is most often thrown when the crankshaft sensor fails during operation. The CKP (crankshaft position sensor) can show itself failing in many ways. No start conditions, stalling the car while running, and even sometimes rough running (bucking). You say that you are leaking water on the passenger side. Try to verify that it isn't always leaking and not just through car washes etc. A leaking waterpump has been known to drip on the crank sensor which is behind the timing belt and cause it to fail. There are other causes for the 14 code, but in most cases it's a failing CKP sensor. Good luck finding the problem.

 

[projectSHO89]

Re: the water leak. you didn't make it very clear, but is sounds like you are leaking water INTO THE CABIN, not leaking coolant from the engine. Clarify. If so, a garden hose, flashlight, and an assistant will be required to locate the source of the leak.

The 14 code is unlikely to be related to your current driveability concerns. Ignore the water pump, CPS, and the 60 K suggestion for the moment, they will be unlikely to resolve the current problems.

My suggestions would be to perform a test your motor mounts and your subframe mounts. I suspect that something is loose or worn out, and that the left turn caused a physical shift under your hood. This movement probably stretched a wiring harness, pinched a harness or connedor, or some other vital line and is the cause of your current problems.

Steve

 

[c_olcott]

Ok I just took a picture of the spot where water leaks in and yes it leaks into the cabin. It does only happen when it rains/I wash the car. I clarified it earlier today by running a hose and having a friend watch under the dash to find the spot it comes in.

picture
password = water

I had just took a friend for a ride and he told me he is convinced that it is my spark plugs/wires. He owns a 95MTX (shopower here on the forum, but he hardly ever posts). He said that he had the same exact problem about 4 months ago and the plugs/wires fixed it. As for the mounts etc. I checked them the best I could by climbing under the car and they all seem ok. I do need to do plugs/wires anyways (had the car about 8 months and I don't know how long ago the previous owner had changed them) so I want to know the cheapest place to get them. I do want the OEM replacements, not aftermarket. I know that I had read on here that the stock ones fit best.

<small>[ July 13, 2003, 07:28 PM: Message edited by: c_olcott ]</small>

 

[shoinoff95]

c_olcott:
I do need to do plugs/wires anyways (had the car about 8 months and I don't know how long ago the previous owner had changed them) so I want to know the cheapest place to get them. I do want the OEM replacements, not aftermarket.

I have an e-mail address that I will pm to you where you can get new motocraft wires for $112.50 shipped. thumb

<small>[ July 14, 2003, 10:16 AM: Message edited by: shoinoff95 ]</small>

 

[biker889]

hey, i just bought a sho for $1000 that had the same prob, whenever i turned it popped bad. Lack of power and such. I can almost guareentee that you need new plugs and wires. I replaced them and it ran like new again.

 

[B Fa SHO]

Could you feel the popping in the pedal when you would accelerate in low RPM's? because I'm having the same problem w/ my car. It seems to have lost a lil power (secondaries dont seem to be opening all the way up), and the popping is really annoying. I have to rev to about 2-2.5k rpm and slowly drop the clutch just to avoid it. Let me know what fixes your problem.
~BW~

 

[c_olcott]

The new plugs and wires fixed the problem, thank you all for your help