Water Pump Shaking

[JaredJHuffman]

95 ATX 3.2L

The engine sounds like there are rocks in it. The sound seems to be coming from the water pump. The pulley on the water pump shakes violently, even though the pump doesn't seem to move. There is certainly a leak as I have had to put almost a full reservoir in it yesterday and today. Also, there is steam coming from the water pump side after driving.

Could this be a pulley mounting problem, or do you think it is in the pump? Any other ideas?

-Jared J Huffman

 

[Ishodu]

Sounds like you are in need of a new water pump. Search front 60K for many helpfull hints and for other parts you should replace.

 

[JaredJHuffman]

The NAPA water pump for the 1995 >> Ford >> Taurus >> 3.2 L 195 CID V6 DOHC costs $120. Any reason this wouldn't be enough?

 

[SuperHO]

Sounds about right.

 

[JaredJHuffman]

Do I need a special puller (the manual lists Puller T67L-3600-A) to remove the crankshaft vibration damper and pulley or can I do that with regular tools?

Anything else I should know when replacing the water pump?

 

[MADDOG11]

The pully should just unbolt from the water pump. Note: if you get the entire water pump (ie. lower half) only replace the upper half. This saves alot of time and headache!

 

[Ishodu]

To remove the crankshaft pulley, all you need is a harmonic balancer puller. Most auto places rent or sell them.

 

[JaredJHuffman]

hey MADDOG11

Nothing else I've read suggests that the thing comes in halves... Could you elaborate on your shortcut?

 

[Ishodu]

The water pump is a two piece setup. Inner and outer. The outer section it the one you will get. There is no need to replace the inner section as there is no ware parts in it.

 

[JaredJHuffman]

How does this affect the procedure?

I am referencing shotimes for the water pump procedure as well as the Ford service manual (page 03-03-22). Are there parts here I can skip or things I should leave on?

Thanks

 

[JaredJHuffman]

On a related note, what harm could be caused by driving this for another 100 miles or so before I can replace it?

I promise I'll give it lots of water...

 

[ohfosho]

definettly replace the CPS (crank sensor) while you are right there...you will be tearing back into it next week if you dont. timing belt and lower rad hose are a good idea while you are there.

 

[SHOtimer]

Your should also replace your timing belt while your in there - especially since you will be pulling it do replace the pump.

You should purchase the fel-pro water pump gasket set. It comes with the replacement O-rings you will need that the pump will not come with.

Here is a step by step guide that is helpful.

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/lower60k/lower60k.htm

Doug

 

[Eliw]

On a related note, what harm could be caused by driving this for another 100 miles or so before I can replace it?

I promise I'll give it lots of water...

Umm, my water pump went the same way. Its not really about giving it lots of water, its more like the pump isnt pumping correctly and the system wont be able to hold pressure too well. The best thing would be to change it as soon as possible.

 

[PAracer]

If you replace the timing belt, then you will been the tool for setting the tensioner. This is for ATX cars only. I would forget the belt for now, unless it is original to the car. Otherwise, just do the pump, CPS, and cam position sensor.

 

[JaredJHuffman]

Soooo
Last night I heard a loud "snap" and then the engine was quiet once again. Oh, and the power steering went out. Visual inspection revealed the water pump arm that mounts to the pulley had sheared clean off! I found the pulley, but lord knows where my timing belt went. Since I am not cool enough to do my own timing belt, I took it to my favorite local garage.

I managed to get it to the shop by watering the engine occasionally and driving with the hood latched but popped open (so it is only open a little). Lucky it didn't overheat (too badly).

btw 16" wheels with no power steering is rough...

Thanks for all the advice everyone

 

[SHOtimer]

If you replace the timing belt, then you will been the tool for setting the tensioner. This is for ATX cars only. I would forget the belt for now, unless it is original to the car. Otherwise, just do the pump, CPS, and cam position sensor.

If you don't change the setting on the tensioner pulley (ie: leave the bolt in the middle alone) - you can simply compress the tensioner install the belt, remove the allen wrench holding down the tensioner and you are good to go.

It is not necessary to buy the tool to reset the tension on the tensioner bearing.

Doug

 

[JaredJHuffman]

So that was just the serpentine belt. Anyways the new pump is installed and everything seems alright. Now I am free to worry about the thousand other things I hafta fix...