Water pump replacement?

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I am assuming the pump itself works, but replacing the gaskets or whatever is back there. Is this a simple task? I have a buddy who works at Ford helping me so he is pretty good. Just wondering what all needs taken off or an online tutorial. Thanks. Coolant leaks suck, it's dripping right on my cat and steaming and smelling bad.
 
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Ok was searching for an answer and seen a post. My temp rises pretty high, then rapidly falls down. But I couldnt find an answer as to why
 

matty

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pump

hey whats going on,i just got done doing all of the water pump area on my 91+.it was nightmarish but just take your time and you should be allright.but since your right there you should do your timing belts.plusthe o ringsand be careful of the crank shaft senor screws.you dont want to break one of those.but good luck i learned alot matt :thumb:
 

SHOtimer

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You should replace the pump while you have it all apart, not just the gaskets. A rebuilt unit from www.rockauto.com, is only around $50. A Ford unit (discounted) is around $150. You need the felpro gasket set: ES70425.

Here is a visual walk through of the process of the whole front end maintenance for the SHO, which includes the water pump.


http://www.shophoenixproject.com/lower60k/lower60k.htm

Doug
 
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Thanks guys. I think I am going to do all the things you guys mentioned. I am having my buddy at Ford printout a parts list and see if I can't get a deal through them, or maybe the local parts store. That site helps out tremendously
 

tasty danish

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MickieMagik(OH) said:
Ok was searching for an answer and seen a post. My temp rises pretty high, then rapidly falls down. But I couldnt find an answer as to why

at initial startup your coolant warms up higher than normal, then your thermostat opens, which is why it falls off so quickly.
 

SHOtimer

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It should not occur like that. The thermostat should allow the coolant to gradually rise to the proper level, by slowing opening and closing. You probably have some air left in the system. When you do your waterpump you should replace your thermostat also.

Doug
 

Lorenr

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Thermostat

Those are the same symptoms you get when the thermostat gets installed backwords. The thermostate doesn't open because the heat is on the engine side of the sensor. When the sensor finally gets hot enough, the sensor slams open and a slug of cool radiator water enters the block. Temperature gauge quickly reacts and the temperature drops until the cycle repeats itself.

Check the thermostate installation.
 

tasty danish

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SHOtimer said:
It should not occur like that. The thermostat should allow the coolant to gradually rise to the proper level, by slowing opening and closing. You probably have some air left in the system. When you do your waterpump you should replace your thermostat also.

Doug

maybe our ideas of quick are different.
it does gradually rise but to a higher level than it would be had it been running for an hour, then it falls off to running temp (about 1/3rd on the gauge) and never really deviates from that position.
 

SHOtimer

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tasty danish said:
maybe our ideas of quick are different.
it does gradually rise but to a higher level than it would be had it been running for an hour, then it falls off to running temp (about 1/3rd on the gauge) and never really deviates from that position.

The temp does not rise to a level higher than it would have been. If it is doing that then it is malfunctioning and should be replaced. A thermostat does not function fully closed or fully open. It will open and close gradually allowing the engine to come to its temperature and rest there. If the temperature is spiking and then coming down, the thermostat is not doing its job properly.

Doug
 

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