Water pump and timing chain

[Billy VK]

Does anyone have a parts list to change the timing chain and water pump in a 2013? Noticed a small puddle under the car in the garage. I put it up on a lift and it became obvious quickly that it was from that location. I have a place that will do the labor for $600.00 if I get the parts. Just don't know the specifics of what I need. Thanks in advance.

 

[SHOdded]

I assume a 2013 will have the updated timing setup, in which case list from the Flex forum should be pretty handy ... good place to start.

You can verify that the 2012 parts list will fit your SHO at fordpartsgiant.com.

 

[Billy VK]

I assume a 2013 will have the updated timing setup, in which case list from the Flex forum should be pretty handy ... good place to start.

You can verify that the 2012 parts list will fit your SHO at fordpartsgiant.com.

Damn that is one **** of a list.

 

[SHOdded]

Mostly you need to change:
timing chains
tensioners
guides
VCT solenoids
water pump
front crank seal
and any TTY bolts

For SHOs, the oil pump might be a good thing to change as well, it is easy to do while in there.

Any other parts you can leave off if you don't want. Remember this list was built by a guy upgrading his old style system to the newer style, so he had to change a bunch of parts that YOU won't have to.

The list is still fairly long for you, because we don't want to leave a weak point in place and have to go in and redo the work.

 

[luigisho]

Cam phasers?

 

[Billy VK]

Car is in the shop and should be done today... Tensioner, water pump, timing chain, and guides all being replaced.... 881.93 parts and labor... not a bad deal form what I have seen other places. Oh, and the motor does NOT have to come out of the car to do the job.

 

[SHOdded]

That my friend is a BANGIN' deal!

 

[Billy VK]

That my friend is a BANGIN' deal!

Yeah I kind of thought so. Got it back this afternoon and it's solid. Smells like a mechanics shop but that'll wear off.

 

[local17bri]

I just went though this and more on my 2011 PP. (Long story...) The car overheated while wife was driving. She shut the car down and let it cool down, then limped it home (about 1 mile). I did a pressure test and found a tiny crack in a plastic tee on radiator hose. No problem, replaced the hose. Two days later, CEL P016 cam/crank correlation error. Soon discovered a rise in the oil level, determined it was coolant leaking into the crankcase, presumably from the water pump. The car ran almost perfectly otherwise. Called around for estimates to change water pump, but no one would give solid price until they were able to look at it. Ford and an independent shop did tell me that if it is the water pump, they would need to drop the engine to do the repair more cost effectively. Both gave labor estimates of 24-29 hours, plus parts.
It was suggested to do a block test on the engine to be sure heads/head gasket were not damaged. Unfortunately, coolant tested positive for exhaust gasses indicating at least a bad head gasket as well.
I decided to take on the job myself with the help of a good friend who is mechanical, but neither of us are mechanics. We did the entire job in my garage without removing the engine.
Disassembly took us about 3 days taking lots of pictures, YouTube videos, Taurus Service manual, marking wiring plugs and harnesses etc. Primary timing chain was loose due to the water pump bearing. The impeller was also damaged.
I had the heads tested and skimmed at a machine shop, also had them install new valve seals . Cost was around $325
Primary timing chain, gear, guides, water pump, head gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, both turbo's o-rings, seals and gaskets, valve cover gaskets, Motorcraft gasket material, all from Ford dealer (with another friend's discount) was about $1100.00
Also needed to buy camshaft holding tool ($25 Amazon), miscellaneous tools (thank God for Harbor Freight!) Add about another $100 coolant, flush, 3 oil changes and oil filters to flush out crankcase.
Reassembly took us about 2 days. (Found it was MUCH easier installing the right turbo and exhaust manifold attached to the right head as a unit from the top, rather than installing them all seperately!) 800 miles later, the car is still running very well, no leaks, no CEL's, clean oil and antifreeze.

 

[Johnbigdog]

2016 Perf. Pkg (P.P.) O.C.D, O.D.T.O. (only doing this once) parts list: (12/14/19) to the best of my knowledge:

Part Name Part Number

RH valve cover FG1Z-6582-C
LH valve cover FG1Z-6582-E
*valve covers were more cost effective then the individual seals. LH comes with H.P. pump base gasket
Front crank seal XW4Z-6700-AA
RH VCT phaser and bolt BA5Z-6A257-E
LH VCT phaser and bolt BA5Z-6A257-D
VCT solenoid (2) 7T4Z-6M280-C
VCT seals (Teflon) (6) 7T4Z-6C262-AA
VCT o ring (2) 7T4Z-6B080-A
primary chain AT4Z-6268-C
Secondary Chain (2) 7T4Z-6268-CA
secondary sprocket (W/bolt) (2) 7T4Z-6256-A
secondary tensioner RH 7T4Z-6K254-AA
Secondary tensioner LH 7T4Z-6K254-BA
secondary washer (2) W710738-S300
RH guide BA5Z-6K255-A
LH guide BA5Z-6B274-A
RH small guide BA5Z-6K297-B
LH small guide BA5Z-6M256-A
crank sprocket AT4Z-6306-A
Primary timing chain tensioner BA5Z-6L266-B
Crank bolt F5RZ-6A340-B
crank bolt washer F1AZ-6378-A
Water pump kit (W/ gasket) DG1Z-8501-C
water pump bolts (8) W503278-S437
H.P. fuel line from pump to rail AA5Z-9J323-E
H.P. fuel line nut (1) W520100-s437
H.P. pump mounting bracket seal FA5Z-9417-AA
Above gasket not needed if you buy the valve cover kit
H.P. pump mount o-rings (2) AA5Z-9374-A
H.P. pump o-ring (1) AA5Z-9E583-A
h.p. pump bolts ( 2 needed) W714498-S900
Serpentine belt tensioner BT4Z-6B209-B
rear roll restrictor GB5Z-6068-A
front roll restrictor AA5Z-6068-B
trans mount AA5Z-6038-B
engine mount AA5Z-6038-D
Intake gaskets Mahle MS19924
Silicone TA357
Oil (6) 5W30
Oil Filter 500S
Coolant Orange
Distilled water D-H2O

Approximate total for the above parts: about 1600 bucks, plus the quoted 10.5 hours labor.


Special tools:

Cam holding tool *303-1248*
Front cover align pins:
Buy 2-4 bolts the same thread and diameter as the front cover bolts. Smooth shank. Cut off the head. cut a slot for a flat screw driver for easier removal where the head was. This will help you align the front cover with the silicone on it before you put on the rest of the bolts.
Tool to hold crank pulley (really big HD strap wrench) when taking off the crank bolt
Tool to remove and replace crank pulley
Seal driver's for the crank, VCT, Spark plug seals if you chose to replace them

 

[4sfed]

2016 Perf. Pkg (P.P.) O.C.D, O.D.T.O. (only doing this once) parts list: (12/14/19) to the best of my knowledge:

Part Name Part Number

RH valve cover FG1Z-6582-C
LH valve cover FG1Z-6582-E
*valve covers were more cost effective then the individual seals. LH comes with H.P. pump base gasket
Front crank seal XW4Z-6700-AA
RH VCT phaser and bolt BA5Z-6A257-E
LH VCT phaser and bolt BA5Z-6A257-D
VCT solenoid (2) 7T4Z-6M280-C
VCT seals (Teflon) (6) 7T4Z-6C262-AA
VCT o ring (2) 7T4Z-6B080-A
primary chain AT4Z-6268-C
Secondary Chain (2) 7T4Z-6268-CA
secondary sprocket (W/bolt) (2) 7T4Z-6256-A
secondary tensioner RH 7T4Z-6K254-AA
Secondary tensioner LH 7T4Z-6K254-BA
secondary washer (2) W710738-S300
RH guide BA5Z-6K255-A
LH guide BA5Z-6B274-A
RH small guide BA5Z-6K297-B
LH small guide BA5Z-6M256-A
crank sprocket AT4Z-6306-A
Primary timing chain tensioner BA5Z-6L266-B
Crank bolt F5RZ-6A340-B
crank bolt washer F1AZ-6378-A
Water pump kit (W/ gasket) DG1Z-8501-C
water pump bolts (8) W503278-S437
H.P. fuel line from pump to rail AA5Z-9J323-E
H.P. fuel line nut (1) W520100-s437
H.P. pump mounting bracket seal FA5Z-9417-AA
Above gasket not needed if you buy the valve cover kit
H.P. pump mount o-rings (2) AA5Z-9374-A
H.P. pump o-ring (1) AA5Z-9E583-A
h.p. pump bolts ( 2 needed) W714498-S900
Serpentine belt tensioner BT4Z-6B209-B
rear roll restrictor GB5Z-6068-A
front roll restrictor AA5Z-6068-B
trans mount AA5Z-6038-B
engine mount AA5Z-6038-D
Intake gaskets Mahle MS19924
Silicone TA357
Oil (6) 5W30
Oil Filter 500S
Coolant Orange
Distilled water D-H2O

Approximate total for the above parts: about 1600 bucks, plus the quoted 10.5 hours labor.


Special tools:

Cam holding tool *303-1248*
Front cover align pins:
Buy 2-4 bolts the same thread and diameter as the front cover bolts. Smooth shank. Cut off the head. cut a slot for a flat screw driver for easier removal where the head was. This will help you align the front cover with the silicone on it before you put on the rest of the bolts.
Tool to hold crank pulley (really big HD strap wrench) when taking off the crank bolt
Tool to remove and replace crank pulley
Seal driver's for the crank, VCT, Spark plug seals if you chose to replace them

Wow! Excellent list! Thank you!

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

 

[charcoalhat]

yeah, that is an awesome list, thanks. im getting caught up in this now, a 2013 with 111k. proactively recommended are the phasers, solenoids, sprockets, chains, guides, and water pump (the cause of this). im being quoted a bit higher, $4800 albeit from a very good shop im told. no gasket or block issues, i caught it immediately.

but my question, aside from the pricing, is... just OEM parts for replacement are sufficient? i havent readily found anything better available, whether a chain and guide kit, or other components. with regard to motor mounts i havent yet asked if they plan on removing the motor to do this or not; it seems some do some dont.

 

[Johnbigdog]

yeah, that is an awesome list, thanks. im getting caught up in this now, a 2013 with 111k. proactively recommended are the phasers, solenoids, sprockets, chains, guides, and water pump (the cause of this). im being quoted a bit higher, $4800 albeit from a very good shop im told. no gasket or block issues, i caught it immediately.

but my question, aside from the pricing, is... just OEM parts for replacement are sufficient? i havent readily found anything better available, whether a chain and guide kit, or other components. with regard to motor mounts i havent yet asked if they plan on removing the motor to do this or not; it seems some do some dont.

I dont know the change over from roller chain to multi-link, but yes o.e.m. parts are about as good as your going to get. The intake gasket kit by mahle is probably the oem supplier in a different box.

Also with over 100K you may want to do a VC1 coolant flush. VC1 is the ford coolant flush chemical.

Coolant has changed from orange to yellow so with the pump its great time to do a good flush.

The engine and trans mount are likely ok, I would bet your roll restrictors are pounded out if they havent been replaced.

If you havent replaced the accessory drive belt(s) its comming off anyways. Good time to replace them.

 

[EastTxSHO_OG]

Car is in the shop and should be done today... Tensioner, water pump, timing chain, and guides all being replaced.... 881.93 parts and labor... not a bad deal form what I have seen other places. Oh, and the motor does NOT have to come out of the car to do the job.

Good price. I paid 1100 did labor in car.