Water + CPS = $$$

[aaronsbiza]

95 ATX 80k. My water pump has been leaking now for the past two weeks. I have read a post that stated a leaking water pump will destroy the CPS. This came to my attention when last night on the way home, sitting at a light, the tach started jumping... headbang The car continued to run, but I know a CPS failure when I see one. If I replace the water pump now, will I still have to replace the CPS? Is the damage permanent? On another note, is there any write up on replacing the water pump, besides shotimes? Partricularly with a "Needed Tools" List?

 

[qiksho]

There is no reason not to replace both when you are in there. I think you should be able to get new waterpump and cps for under $100 granted its been a few months since I bought this stuff now.

My luck I would not replace cps and then 3 days later it would fail. I don't need that much practice doin 60k's. pcorn

 

[91 SHOplus]

qiksho:
There is no reason not to replace both when you are in there..... My luck I would not replace cps and then 3 days later it would fail. I don't need that much practice doin 60k's. pcorn

'Nuff said?
Do it right, or do it twice.

EDIT: While you are in there, why not do the front 60k. It's not that much more work. Rear main seal, serp belt, and timing belt. Your SHO will love you for it!

<small>[ December 09, 2003, 11:43 AM: Message edited by: 91 SHOplus ]</small>

 

[aaronsbiza]

I plan on replacing the timing belt as well. What other items should I replace? How difficult is it to replace the CPS (When my original CPS went, Ford Replaced it)? Do I need any special tools?

 

[Bizzy]

aaronsbiza:
95 ATX 80k. My water pump has been leaking now for the past two weeks. I have read a post that stated a leaking water pump will destroy the CPS. This came to my attention when last night on the way home, sitting at a light, the tach started jumping... headbang The car continued to run, but I know a CPS failure when I see one. If I replace the water pump now, will I still have to replace the CPS? Is the damage permanent? On another note, is there any write up on replacing the water pump, besides shotimes? Partricularly with a "Needed Tools" List?

You can prolly get away without replacing the CPS, specifically because it usually fails because of the coolant leaking on them from a WP. Now if your car isn't leaking bad, and you haven't been experiencing alot of the car shutting itself off while driving down the highway then I'd say your CPS is prolly fine. It's up to you how handy you are at working on your car and how much your free time is worth. I did the "60k" on my 94 Opal, and I'll never do a real 60k like that again. I pulled off a perfectly good CPS, and replaced it with a new one. Waste of $35 cause there was noting wrong with the old one. Since I do all my own work on my SHO's I've become begun to look at it like this, I'll fix what needs fixing and leave the rest alone. Though I will check my valve lash every 50-60k miles just to make sure everything is in spec and not wearing wierd. I've worked on a 94 MTX with 315k miles on it, it's been thru 2 waterpumps & 1 timing belt, but it is still running its original CPS. Never had a valve lash either, and the car runs really good.

If you are the kind of person that wants to get in there and have all good working stuff, then the extra few bucks for a CPS isn't an issue, but to me replacing a CPS if it fails is a 3 hour job, and if it's nice and sunny outside it's not a hassle.

 

[shobote]

Why use the old CPS if you go to all the trouble of getting in there to replace the T-belt, front seal and H2O pump; spend the dough on a new CPS and you will know you won't get stranded out in the cold. Also, don't buy a cheaper rebuilt H2O pump for the same reason; get an OE Motorcraft and do it right.

 

[autobahnsho]

If you're chaning the waterpump it shouldn't add more than one hour, tops, to your job to do the cps.

My cps failure story: it stalled out and continued to drive immediately on the highway (autobahn) and I didn't have any other symptoms for 2 weeks. Then it refused to start. I unplugged the battery, replugged and it started. Then it drove ok for 2 days, then wouldn't start without the battery unplug again. Then it just plain wouldn't start.

So the problems from the part will be intermittent until you're just plain screwed.
You'll need a good socket set, a strong wrench to fit on the crank bolt (use the 'starter bump' method to get the bolt off), an allen (hex) set with long extensions, and a harmonic damper puller (not sure about the name)- it's a kit you can rent anywhere, it pulls the crankshaft pulley off nice and even; and assorted other small tools.

You just lift that corner of the car, pull the wheel & fender liner off, and start wrenching. It was my first job after an oil change, it's really not that difficult.
Good luck, let us know if you have questions.

 

[SolidState]

netviper hit it on the head...if you are the kind of person that likes to wrench on your SHO, and you don't mind tearing things down more than once, then pull the CPS off, inspect it, clean it and re-install it.

If you like the piece of mind, the $35 is well spent.

I did my first front 60k in october....was a piece of cake. No real special tools, and the ATX is super easy with all its automatic tensioners.