Want to buy an SHO - need ideas on engine symptoms first

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GTSSportCoupe

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Hi all, this is my first post on this forum. I've been a '80s-'90s Toyota enthusiast for years, but have been attracted to the legendary SHO recently. I'm looking to buy a fast fun family hauler, and I think the SHO is right up my alley. I should mention I'm a capable 'backyard' mechanic, and there isn't much that I haven't done to a vehicle before. Many of Toyota's engines are co-designed with Yamaha also... I hope that I can buy this car, learn about it, and contribute to this great forum. I've done a lot of searches on the forum already to try to learn more (especially about the problem I'm going to describe). It seems like a knowledgeable and respectful bunch of people here.

So, I went to look at a 93 ATX SHO yesterday (my wife wants auto :eek:). The body and interior are mint. It has 216,000kms. It has new tires, windshield, battery and brakes. The owner has only had it for a short while, as he got it on a trade-in, so he doesn't know too much of the history. He stated that the car's check engine light was on before I came to look at it. The car has been sitting lots recently. He was asking $1500 OBO.

Upon starting the car and test driving it, an interesting turn of events occurred. I was hoping that you guys could give me an idea of what I'm up against before I buy the car. Here's what happened:

- I started the car. It took about 6 cranks to start which concerned me. I looked for any burning oil out the tail pipes. I didn't see any, so assume the valve seals etc. are ok. As I expected the check engine light was on.

- The engine sounded fairly smooth (even compression). The valve train was quiet and not rattly.

- I tried revving the engine, and it had a bad lag before finally revving up.

- I took it for a drive. Again, it had bad throttle response (lag), and didn't pull nearly as well as I would have expected. Everything else seemed fine though. Car felt nice and solid - had good braking.

- While driving I wanted to get a feel for handling and also check for clunking from the CV joints. So I went a round a cul-de-sac (turning left) a few times pretty hard. Car handled awesome and had no knocking.

- As I drove back to the fellows house, I noted that the HVAC display was blinking on and off. The lights were dimming on the car. This seemed to indicate that the voltage was dropping.

- When I arrived back at the house, I left the car running for a bit. Then shut off and tried to start again. All I got was a click from the solenoid. The lights in the car were dim, hvac display still screwed and non responsive. ABS, Airbag, and CEL lights were on at this point.

- So we started looking under the hood. I noticed a bunch of fresh oil on the passenger side inner CV boot and around the general area. Presumably this occurred when I was pulling hard around the cul-de-sac. I noticed lots of oil all around the bottom of the engine. It was hard to tell where it was coming from. Looks like there had been oil leaks for a while.

- We noticed that the engine bay illumination light was flickering like there was an electrical short somewhere. So we immediately disconnected the battery to make sure nothing caught fire.

- I felt bad that I left the car with these issues, but it's probably likely that they are all related and would have happened eventually anyhow. I told the guy I'd come back to troubleshoot further, and was still interested in the car. And of course, there is now the chance that I could get this car really cheap.

So, I want to get an idea of what I'm up against. I'd like to go back and check the engine codes as described here: http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/eec.htm Although with the shorting issues, i'm not even sure I could get codes out of the ECU.

I'm not afraid to buy this car, have it towed to my place and try to fix the problems. But I do want to make sure I'm not going to be up against impossible electrical problems or fatal engine issues.

I am hoping you guys might have some ideas as to what would cause these problems? I'm wondering if the oil leak is causing all the issues. Maybe oil in the starter shorting something out? Maybe oil in the crank sensor caused the original engine starting and lag problems?

I was already expecting to do the standard 60,000mile tune up anyhow (especially not knowing the history). So maybe replacing some oil seals while I'm doing the timing belt will solve the issues?

If you made it this far, thanks a lot. Maybe I wrote too much detail...haha!

Cheers,
Nick
 
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93rev2sev

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It probably has bad gas from all the sitting. I would not start it again without flushing that crap outa there...along with all the other fluids. Take apart the intake (the rubber/plastic stuff) and make sure there are no squirrels nests in there. I would not be at all surprised if a tune up brought this one back to life.

For the poor throttle response, try cleaning the MAF sensor's elements with MAF sensor cleaner (you will need a set of "security" torx bits)

With an ATX...if it shifts good and has a decent body, the rest is easily taken care of.


And ya...It needs an alternator...a voltage regulator at least...
 

GTSSportCoupe

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It probably has bad gas from all the sitting. I would not start it again without flushing that crap outa there...along with all the other fluids. Take apart the intake (the rubber/plastic stuff) and make sure there are no squirrels nests in there. I would not be at all surprised if a tune up brought this one back to life.

For the poor throttle response, try cleaning the MAF sensor's elements with MAF sensor cleaner (you will need a set of "security" torx bits)

With an ATX...if it shifts good and has a decent body, the rest is easily taken care of.


And ya...It needs an alternator...a voltage regulator at least...


Hey, thanks for the points. I actually called the owner again today, and he figured out the starting problem. It was just a loose cable on the starter. So now I'm back to square one with the CEL. I'm going to look at the car on Wednesday again to pull the codes. Things are looking good! :woo-hoo: (I really want this car)
 

93rev2sev

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Have a buddy take you there with a G in your pocket. You can drive yourself home.
 

Pro*banshee

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- I tried revving the engine, and it had a bad lag before finally revving up.

- I took it for a drive. Again, it had bad throttle response (lag), and didn't pull nearly as well as I would have expected. Everything else seemed fine though. Car felt nice and solid - had good braking.

Almost promise this is the MAF filter like 93rev suggested.

- While driving I wanted to get a feel for handling and also check for clunking from the CV joints. So I went a round a cul-de-sac (turning left) a few times pretty hard. Car handled awesome and had no knocking.

- So we started looking under the hood. I noticed a bunch of fresh oil on the passenger side inner CV boot and around the general area. Presumably this occurred when I was pulling hard around the cul-de-sac. I noticed lots of oil all around the bottom of the engine. It was hard to tell where it was coming from. Looks like there had been oil leaks for a while.

I lumped these two together because I'm fairly certain the "oil" you saw was power steering fluid. When mine is warmed up pretty well and I make a really sharp turn and max out the power steering, the fluid overflows out of the cap and spills down. Makes a real mess.

- As I drove back to the fellows house, I noted that the HVAC display was blinking on and off. The lights were dimming on the car. This seemed to indicate that the voltage was dropping.

- When I arrived back at the house, I left the car running for a bit. Then shut off and tried to start again. All I got was a click from the solenoid. The lights in the car were dim, hvac display still screwed and non responsive. ABS, Airbag, and CEL lights were on at this point.

Definately alternator. Throw a new battery in too.

- We noticed that the engine bay illumination light was flickering like there was an electrical short somewhere. So we immediately disconnected the battery to make sure nothing caught fire.

The gravity switch on the hood light sucks more **** than Monica Lewinsky (but not as much as Apple's design team or Bono); I replaced mine with a good mercury switch. The cable leading up to it also sucks.

So, I want to get an idea of what I'm up against. I'd like to go back and check the engine codes as described here: http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/eec.htm Although with the shorting issues, i'm not even sure I could get codes out of the ECU.

You can still run KOEO for stored codes.

I'm not afraid to buy this car, have it towed to my place and try to fix the problems. But I do want to make sure I'm not going to be up against impossible electrical problems or fatal engine issues.

Not required! Throw a new alternator on there (hour tops if you have NO CLUE what you're doing, which you seem you do) and replace or jump the battery if you haven't ridden it down TOO far

I am hoping you guys might have some ideas as to what would cause these problems? I'm wondering if the oil leak is causing all the issues. Maybe oil in the starter shorting something out? Maybe oil in the crank sensor caused the original engine starting and lag problems?

If it isn't the MAF causing hard starts, it's either the Camshaft position sensor or the Crankshaft position sensor. Since you had to crank it six times before it caught that eliminates the Camshaft sensor (I'm pretty sure about this one). If it's the crankshaft sensor, you need to change it when you do the front 60k anyway so no big deal if it starts when you replace the alt+battery!


I hope you go through with it and welcome to the forums! :wave:

SV&** Dan has a decent bunch of spare alternators and will ship you one for a very reasonable price. Well, as reasonable as you can get shipping to canada from pennsylvania anyway.
 

bubba

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Yes I would talk him down alittle bit. And make sure you clean the nostrils out too, I'm was clogged up with harden stuff too. And with plugs and wires she should run with the best of them.

Tom's good people and knows his stuff too.
 

rubydist

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I think the guys have pretty much nailed it - the alternator/regulator is bad, the tps or mafs are dirty/bad, and it needs the 60k work done. Given that, $1500 is too much money - I wouldn't pay more than half of that, because $1500 is about all its worth after all that stuff is done. Good luck!
 

GTSSportCoupe

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Hey everyone, thanks for all the help, it's much appreciated! Obviously a good group of people here and I'm glad I joined this forum. I'm going out to buy the car tomorrow night if all goes to plan. I'm still going to pull the codes first just to see whats up though.

It's nice to see there are lots of used parts and aftermarket stuff for these cars still. I had heard that new parts can be pricey. Taking a look on Egay I already found stuff I'd like to buy such as shop manuals, and a new solid button HVAC panel, cranks sensor, plugs, etc. Some pretty cool parts seem to come up for sale on the forums here too.

I can't wait to get this car now. It'll be fun bringing it back to it's original glory. I can't believe how much car you get for your money with these things. Strange how they haven't held their value more. I'll start at $750 with the guy, and hopefully settle for less than $1000. I'll take some pics to post when I get the car home.
 

SHO GoDz 89

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starting issue could be the cam sensor. Usually it takes a few tries for the car to start with a bad cam sensor. You can unplug the sensor and get the car running, the crank sensor on the other hand does not allow the car to start.

If you have the capability of working on this engine, by all means do it. They are quite simple engines in design, it just takes some patience to work around it since there is not a lot of space under that hood.
 

GTSSportCoupe

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Bought the car! Some of the issues were sorted out by the previous owner before I bought it. I guess he still wanted to demand a half decent price. I've still got a number of things to sort out though. I'm going to do some 'searches' on the forum, and maybe start a new thread with a few quick questions too. I'm happy to be an SHO owner, and can't wait to restore the car back to good running condition.
 

Devin

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Good luck! Ownership is an experience to say the least. This is also an interesting time to get into them because of revived interest in the nameplate. Probably the best part about owning this car is this forum!
 

SHO.fast

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pictures pictures pictures pictures are a MUST!!!

so where the **** are they?


welcome to the Forum

its an addiction
 

GTSSportCoupe

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Haha! Ok, I'll try to get some pictures soon. Can I attach pictures directly to the forum when I post, or do I need a hosting site?

The main reason I haven't posted any pics is I've been super busy fixing problems with the car, as I need it to be a reliable driver asap.

The car is white with grey leather interior. The body and interior are really clean. The drive train is in good shape and solid for the most part, but is in dire need of a full 60,000mile tune up.

So far I've fixed plugged sunroof drains, changed the engine oil to mobil 1 synthetic, cleaned and detailed the interior, cleaned out plugged egr passages, fixed the overdrive solenoid with a c-clip. I've bought NGK ignition leads and iridium plugs which I plan to replace tomorrow (got the intake manifold off tonight). I've also bought valvoline high mileage ATF fluid and a new ATF filter which I also plan to do tomorrow.

Following that I've got dozens of other minor/major things to fix like:
- power antenna makes grinding noises
- cd player doesnt work
- hvac buttons are pushed in
- the rest of the 60,000mile tune up
- stereo buttons by steering wheel don't work
- steering has play in it
- remote gas cap opener handle is broken
- spare tire nut is missing in action
- sunroof shade is gone
- ebrake pedal rubber cover is gone
- struts could use replacement
- front passenger door doesn't open from the inside anymore
- etc. etc....

Fortunetely there is a guy near to me who is parting out a 94 ATX SHO. I'm going to grab what I can off it to fix the issues with my car. I might also grab his ATX computer (apparently better than the 93's), and his front brakes (again apparently better).

My wife is ****** that I'm spending so much time on the car...but I think I'm an addict already and can't help it....haha. I love this car; and its fun discovering all the options and features it has.
 

1995SHO9

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Hope I'm not too late to offer advice, but if you suspect it is the maf causing low throttle response, you can unplug the plug going to it and it will go into a default mode. Try driving it like that and see what happens. It won't hurt the car but it will go really rich.

As far as hard starting, that could be a cam sensor. A cam sensor will cause a hard start, a crank sensor will cause a no start issue.

Sorry to be late on the game, but I wish you the best of luck with your car, and yes, these cars are addictive....


Oh, and if you don't know if they've been done, do your rod bearings....
 
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pmcglone

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Hi all, this is my first post on this forum. I've been a '80s-'90s Toyota enthusiast for years, but have been attracted to the legendary SHO recently. I'm looking to buy a fast fun family hauler, and I think the SHO is right up my alley. I should mention I'm a capable 'backyard' mechanic, and there isn't much that I haven't done to a vehicle before. Many of Toyota's engines are co-designed with Yamaha also... I hope that I can buy this car, learn about it, and contribute to this great forum. I've done a lot of searches on the forum already to try to learn more (especially about the problem I'm going to describe). It seems like a knowledgeable and respectful bunch of people here.

So, I went to look at a 93 ATX SHO yesterday (my wife wants auto :eek:). The body and interior are mint. It has 216,000kms. It has new tires, windshield, battery and brakes. The owner has only had it for a short while, as he got it on a trade-in, so he doesn't know too much of the history. He stated that the car's check engine light was on before I came to look at it. The car has been sitting lots recently. He was asking $1500 OBO.

Upon starting the car and test driving it, an interesting turn of events occurred. I was hoping that you guys could give me an idea of what I'm up against before I buy the car. Here's what happened:

- I started the car. It took about 6 cranks to start which concerned me. I looked for any burning oil out the tail pipes. I didn't see any, so assume the valve seals etc. are ok. As I expected the check engine light was on.

- The engine sounded fairly smooth (even compression). The valve train was quiet and not rattly.

- I tried revving the engine, and it had a bad lag before finally revving up.

- I took it for a drive. Again, it had bad throttle response (lag), and didn't pull nearly as well as I would have expected. Everything else seemed fine though. Car felt nice and solid - had good braking.

- While driving I wanted to get a feel for handling and also check for clunking from the CV joints. So I went a round a cul-de-sac (turning left) a few times pretty hard. Car handled awesome and had no knocking.

- As I drove back to the fellows house, I noted that the HVAC display was blinking on and off. The lights were dimming on the car. This seemed to indicate that the voltage was dropping.

- When I arrived back at the house, I left the car running for a bit. Then shut off and tried to start again. All I got was a click from the solenoid. The lights in the car were dim, hvac display still screwed and non responsive. ABS, Airbag, and CEL lights were on at this point.

- So we started looking under the hood. I noticed a bunch of fresh oil on the passenger side inner CV boot and around the general area. Presumably this occurred when I was pulling hard around the cul-de-sac. I noticed lots of oil all around the bottom of the engine. It was hard to tell where it was coming from. Looks like there had been oil leaks for a while.

- We noticed that the engine bay illumination light was flickering like there was an electrical short somewhere. So we immediately disconnected the battery to make sure nothing caught fire.

- I felt bad that I left the car with these issues, but it's probably likely that they are all related and would have happened eventually anyhow. I told the guy I'd come back to troubleshoot further, and was still interested in the car. And of course, there is now the chance that I could get this car really cheap.

So, I want to get an idea of what I'm up against. I'd like to go back and check the engine codes as described here: http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/eec.htm Although with the shorting issues, i'm not even sure I could get codes out of the ECU.

I'm not afraid to buy this car, have it towed to my place and try to fix the problems. But I do want to make sure I'm not going to be up against impossible electrical problems or fatal engine issues.

I am hoping you guys might have some ideas as to what would cause these problems? I'm wondering if the oil leak is causing all the issues. Maybe oil in the starter shorting something out? Maybe oil in the crank sensor caused the original engine starting and lag problems?

I was already expecting to do the standard 60,000mile tune up anyhow (especially not knowing the history). So maybe replacing some oil seals while I'm doing the timing belt will solve the issues?

If you made it this far, thanks a lot. Maybe I wrote too much detail...haha!

Cheers,
Nick
I have a 93, white, 5speed, 175k, needs front spring, 2 rear struts, runs and looks good. 1500, best. Call Paul 215-892-2037 Car is inspected in pa till feb 2010/
 

GTSSportCoupe

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Hey Guys, thanks for the help. All the issues in the first post are fixed. I'm working on the smaller stuff now.

Incidentally, I cleaned the MAF sensor today, and CRAP, the car hauls ass now. At least twice the power that I had. Its fricken awesome. My poor Auto Trans is showing is weakness now.
 

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