Violent Downshifts

[LotusDriver]

I have started to notice recently, on occassion the car will downshift under acceleration with a very violent CLUNK! One of the more recent times, I was cruising at about 60 on the highway, and about to pass the car in front of me. The car downshifted like it should, then when it grabbed the gear it was such a thunderous clunk that it actually scared the crap outta me! It was a noise that I was not expecting. That was the hardest I had ever felt. While it doesn't do this all the time, it does do it on occassion. It seems to be getting worse and worse. I have a feeling that eventually I am going to need to accelerate and my tranny is going to be left in pieces all over the road.

I did have a transmission fluid leak if you remember early on. I don't know if this is related or not. I do know they said they topped off the fluid.. but who knows. Is anyone else experiencing this?

 

[SeanMc]

It's under warranty, take it to the dealer.

 

[somedude_001]

it could be as simple as a engine mount that has come loose, and as the bolt gets more loose the clunk gets worse.

 

[walser]

oh god motor mounts on these cars too? haha

 

[LotusDriver]

I don't think it is a motor mount. I would think it would do it most (if not all) the time if I had a motor mount problem. This is relatively infrequent.

 

[risoworker]

how can one car have so many problems already?

I'm beginning to think i should have waited.

 

[MilTownSHO]

how can one car have so many problems already?

I'm beginning to think i should have waited.

Any new car is going to have glitches, especially the first year.

Take it to a dealership, but actually take a technician on a test drive to try and duplicate the problem. Otherwise they are probably going to claim they could not find anything.

Good luck!

 

[LotusDriver]

Any new car is going to have glitches, especially the first year.

Take it to a dealership, but actually take a technician on a test drive to try and duplicate the problem. Otherwise they are probably going to claim they could not find anything.

Good luck!

That is precisely why I am choosing to wait and let it get worse. I can't be without the car, and I don't want some mechanic driving for a week beating on it doing downshifts to duplicate the problem.

I don't get a loaner car from the dealership, like I used to with my Acura TL. I would bring the TL in for a regular oil change, and they ALWAYS had a car ready to go for me to drive. **** they were nice cars too! Stuff like that makes me scratch my head, and quickly realize why other manufacturers have such customer loyalty.

 

[shobote]

IF I got a new SHO, would definitely buy an upgraded 100k warrantee since it is a new model and things typically go bad after the standard warrantee expires. A new trans would be many thousands in an AWD model, not including ther labor needed.
I bought the optional 100k warrantee on my last 2 new cars and it has saved me several thousands; (trans replaced, heater core, nav'radio, etc..) The warrantee on the 2010 SHO is 36/36,000 and 60/60,000 on drivetrain while the Lincoln MKS ecoboost AWD built on the same line has a 48/50,000 and 72/70,000 so what's up with that ?

 

[PonySHO]

I don't get a loaner car from the dealership, like I used to with my Acura TL. I would bring the TL in for a regular oil change, and they ALWAYS had a car ready to go for me to drive. **** they were nice cars too! Stuff like that makes me scratch my head, and quickly realize why other manufacturers have such customer loyalty.

Dealerships are separate entities, not Ford. If it's a small dealership, it may not be financially feasible for them to provide a fleet of cars for loaners. My dealership is pretty big and has a Budget-Rental window next to service, free of charge of course.

 

[PonySHO]

IF I got a new SHO, would definitely buy an upgraded 100k warrantee since it is a new model and things typically go bad after the standard warrantee expires.

That's precisely why I got a 4 year extended warranty past the 36/36,000 factory warranty. I broke my own rule never to buy a 1st year model, but what the ****... I wanted one.

 

[SoonerLS]

I don't get a loaner car from the dealership, like I used to with my Acura TL. I would bring the TL in for a regular oil change, and they ALWAYS had a car ready to go for me to drive. **** they were nice cars too! Stuff like that makes me scratch my head, and quickly realize why other manufacturers have such customer loyalty.

If you bought a Lincoln, you'd be more likely to get a loaner (I did when I took my LS in for service, though Lincoln only guarantees that they'll have transportation available). That's part of the difference between mainstream and luxury marques.

 

[risoworker]

I bought the esp till 100g on the SHO and every car we have bought. for me it's worth the
peace of mind if something goes wrong while i'm away at work the wife can just goto Tasca and all will be taken care of. when it's out of warranty it goes to very few mechanic's i trust.

BTW right now i'm sporting a 2010 honda accord as a rental and the tire pressure
light is on. How do rental companies let cars out that are broken.

 

[warmonger]

sometimes the temp will play tricks with the tpm sensors

 

[Markus]

very few mechanic's i trust.

BTW right now i'm sporting a 2010 honda accord as a rental and the tire pressure
light is on. How do rental companies let cars out that are broken.

A very good question. I rented a Chrysler minivan in the summer and discovered that the a/c didn't work. Van had only 2000km on the odo. Rental agency said "Oh, we meant to get that fixed". Boneheads.

There could be several reasons for the innacurate TPMS light on the Accord.
- sensor failure - there have been a few failures of these sensors on the 8th Gen Accord
- sensor not properly linked to the car (linking is done by the dealer)
- varying outside air temps

I've never had a problem with the TPMS in my Accord. Whenever the light comes on, one or more of the tires has been low on air. This has only ever happened in fall and winter. Sometimes after adding air the light goes off
after driving a short distance. Sometime it takes a day.

 

[risoworker]

sometimes the temp will play tricks with the tpm sensors

i called hertz and their answer is with that car if i hit a bump it will go but will go out. yup two days later still on.

 

[risoworker]

A very good question. I rented a Chrysler minivan in the summer and discovered that the a/c didn't work. Van had only 2000km on the odo. Rental agency said "Oh, we meant to get that fixed". Boneheads.

There could be several reasons for the innacurate TPMS light on the Accord.
- sensor failure - there have been a few failures of these sensors on the 8th Gen Accord
- sensor not properly linked to the car (linking is done by the dealer)
- varying outside air temps

I've never had a problem with the TPMS in my Accord. Whenever the light comes on, one or more of the tires has been low on air. This has only ever happened in fall and winter. Sometimes after adding air the light goes off
after driving a short distance. Sometime it takes a day.

there is too much plastic crap on this accord. the radio is ugly as sin, and the
way the dash bumps out is ugly. overall i hate this car with a passion.
not impressed with the seats not impressed with anything in this heap.

what's up with the locks not locking automatically either. :swing:

oh well hopefully my tauri comes back soon....

 

[LotusDriver]

So does anyone want to comment on the way there 2010 downshifts... or should we just high jack this thread completely and keep talking about Minivans, Tire pressure sensors and ugly Accord dash boards?

 

[risoworker]

wow. well lotus to be honest my SHO has been perfect. could be the driver, seems odd
a new car is having this many problems.

 

[PonySHO]

So does anyone want to comment on the way there 2010 downshifts... or should we just high jack this thread completely and keep talking about Minivans, Tire pressure sensors and ugly Accord dash boards?

:laugh_ti: There nothing wrong with my tranny, but I don't think it's really smooth, ie. when I slow down and then get back on the pedal, the downshift isn't really smooth.