Very slow coolant leak, I need help!

[cRaZySHO.]

For about 6 months now, my car has been "guzzling" about 2 qts of coolant every 2-3 weeks or so. My father and I have checked repeatedly for leaks. We have pressure tested the motor, flushed the entire system with water, and the car doesn't leave puddles or drip marks anywhere. I'm thinking (and hoping it's not) it's a head gasket leak. The only other sign that it gives me is that I can smell some burnt off coolant smell after driving long or hard. Any clues? I really hope I don't have to replace my $350 head gaskets. Thanx in advance.

 

[shojuan]

It could be your water pump leaking. VERY common on the SHO. Blown head gaskets are not. The reason you don't find any puddles on the ground if your water pump is leaking is that the water dribbles down onto your catalytic converter and evaporates, leaving no evidence.

Rick

 

[sdpatt]

To check for a leaking water pump, Look for the lowest portion of the lower timing belt cover behind the crankshaft damper. That is the leak port for the coolant from the water pump and the oil from the front main seal. If you see a drip of coolant there, you have your answer. If you also see a drip of oil, you should also plan on replacing the front seal while the covers are off for the water pump. Also might want to replace the timing belt since you should take off the old one to prevent from getting coolant on it during the pump swap. Hey, maybe you just do the whole front end 60K/100K service. The water pump is the most effort of that job. Something to think about.

 

[cRaZySHO.]

I just replaced my water pump, timing belt, cps and both radiator hoses, and both acc. belts about 6 months ago. The only thing I didn't replace was the front seal. I plan on doing my 60k service very soon(66k on the clock). So I don't think that my water pump would be going already.

 

[LaTechSHO]

you smell coolant in the car or outside of the car?

Louis

 

[RI-SHO]

Have you check the lower radiator hose or end tanks? I had a small leak there in the winter when the rubber bushing shrunk too much and let coolant leak everytime I would warm up my car in the morning. Once it became warm it would no longer leak some stop leaked for the summer, hope it worked well enuff for this winter.

 

[93MTXSHO]

My car seemed to be doing the same thing. There are 2 things I would recommend checking/replacing. There is a U shaped hose to the upper right of the oil filter. Mine was leaking there. I replaced it and the leak slowed. I kept waiting for it to get worse, and then about 3 later I found that one of my heater tubes, where the rubber hose attaches to the block, was also leaking. Hope that might help.

 

[cRaZySHO.]

RI-SHO, I had recrimped my radiator end tanks when I did the flush last time, so I don't think it could be coming from there.

As for the hoses, I checked most of those when I did the flush. And I don't smell coolant inside the car, so it can't be my heater core. I'm just confused where the fluid is going.

 

[Mike Spataro]

I've had similar problems with one of my SHO's and it turned out to be the water pump. If you have an Auto Zone nearby they will provide a pressure tester at no cost. This will allow you to pressurize your cooling system and inspect for leaks. Keep an eye on the lower pump weep hole with a small mirror or simply place a cord or wire in the lower weep hole and the coolant will travel on the wire (or will not) while pressureized. You my need to remove the battery tray and pump pulley to get a good look. I am sure you are familar with this drill. Good luck, Mike

 

[cRaZySHO.]

Is it possible my water pump is shot already? I just changed somewhere around 5-8k ago. And I didn't just change the front half of the pump, I bought a completly new pump. It was an Airtex.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Based on the description you've provided, I suspect a pinhole leak in the radiator that only presents itself under pressure, and evaporates upon hitting the engine, front exhaust manifold or Y-pipe. The source of the leak could be in the radiator core itself, or very possibly at the end tanks -- recrimping plastic tanks to an aluminum core only works right about 20% of the time.

 

[Tom M]

I had the same problem a while back, eventually tracked it down to the heater hose connections. Make sure the clamps on the heater hoses are tight where they go into the firewall and where they attach to the metal tubes.

 

[pimothy]

One of the best moves I made was to purchase a Stant pressure tester on EBay, shipped for about $30. With the engine off and pressure maintained it is easy to look over every location where leakage may occur. However expect the tester to leakdown somewhat after say 10 minutes, even with a perfect cooling system