...verge of overheating......

[venomizd93]

I have som equestions for you SHO experts out there. I have a 95 MTX with 90k on the ticker. First I found out the other day my blend door is messed it keeps banging itself against something....kinda like chineese water torture. First is it the motor or is it just stuck on something trying to free itself.

The next is the more important of the two. Recently my car has been running from normal to what I consider Hot(not normal)....about the N of the NORMAL on the gauge. The fan seem s to come on at all different times. I don't know if it's the gauge. I've replaced the coolant temp sensor, the themostat w/ a 195 deg. one and the coolant. The radiator is only a year old, hoses are good. No new water pump though. I cleaned the intake(carbon fouled) and that seemed to cure the problem, due to pinging) but now its back to the same old. Just re-sealed the sparkplug seals due to oil all over the plugs....still the same. It seems after it wams up if I stop somewhere and then drive again the idle stays up around 1900 and when I let out the clutch it isn't responsive at all to the gas...Now I know the pump is on it's way ouot because of hard starts every once in a while as well as the gurgling after the car is turned off or a hard start occurs. It seems like I'm gettting some sort of vapor lock. I plan on replacing the fuel pump ASAP, but could this be the cause for the "running hot" condiditon. The water pump is not leaking at all, do they get weak????? I suspect a lean condition might cause the higher idle. HELP headbang

 

[Rob94]

Engine Temperature Control switch. It tells the computer how hot/cold the engine is and controls the electric fan. If it's bad, your fan will act strange, and you'll have driveability problems. It is located just under the thermostat housing, to the right of the switch for the temperature gauge.

 

[projectSHO89]

1.) Replace the blend door actuator. No fun..

2.) The water pumps in these engines do not get weak. There are two temp senders/sensors - the single terminal one is for your dash guage, the two-terminal one is for the computer. You didn't specify which one you replaced. The dash guage is notorious for inaccuracy and should not be used to diagnose a problem. Either use an infrared thermometer or install an accurate aftermarket guage to measure acual operating temps.

It sounds like your car has multiple issues. Work through them methodically until you get them resolved.

Steve

<small>[ September 26, 2003, 05:55 PM: Message edited by: projectSHO89 ]</small>

 

[venomizd93]

I relplaced the two pin one as well last year for $30.....I have other questions as well what are symptoms of the ICM going bad or an it's way out???? I doubt the heater core is plugged but what are symtoms of that???

About the gauge....yeah I figured it wasn't that accurate...here in good ol buffalo when it gets down near 0 the guage likes to spike out of range to 12o'clock and after about hmmm 4-5 min.s of driving it goes back down to it's proper reading.....only in the winter though....that's why I thought it might be the gauge thumb

 

[projectSHO89]

The ICRM (Relay Module, 92 and prior) has relays in it for the fuel pump, the cooling fan, the A/C clutch, and the EEC power relay. Name changed to CCRM for 93 and on

The ICM (Ignition Control Module, aka DIS (93-on)) controls the ignition.

Which one were you wondering about?

Steve

 

[yamahaSHO]

Sounds like an ECT to me.

 

[venomizd93]

I was wondering about the piece mounted on the pass. side of the intake mainfold....it's a 95 mtx. I replaced the original ECT with a NAPA about a year ago.....I've always had good luck with napa parts....

 

[projectSHO89]

That wopuld be the DIS module. It is there to (among other things) fire the coils to make the spark.

The symptom of a plugged heater core is no heat. With the engine at operating temp, feel both the inlet and the outlet lines for the core. If one is hot but the other is much cooler, the core is not flowing coolant.

Steve