Valve covers leaking oil on both sides

[98SF19]

So I'm getting to that time where I need to either pony up to have the valve cover gaskets changed, or try my hand at doing it myself and soaking mine in lacquer thinner (per an earlier post where Paul recommends this). Whenever I go wide open for a bit, upon parking, I can smell burning/hot oil. A tech at Aamco also mentioned that it needs to be done soon. I've found a few posts on the matter (here are a few:
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=118398&highlight=valve+covers
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=115414&highlight=valve+covers
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=113590&highlight=valve+covers)

and from these, I detect that there is a shortage of the gaskets and that at this point, the dealers are the only ones that have any left. That means big $$ for anybody opting to take the car to a "professional". I've never torn into the motor, and as this is my daily driver and I am down a creek sans paddling device money-wise, I'm hesitant to risk not being able to drive it or even just having something a bit "off" upon reassembly such that I screw things up worse when driving it.

I couldn't find a how-to for the valve cover removal on v8sho or anywhere. Can someone provide me a good resource for this endeavour so I can attempt to "roll up my sleeves, grab my nuts, and get dirty"? Also, I might need some help on the soaking of the gaskets in the thinner and/or how to go about having some powdercoating done, but one bridge at a time . . .

Thanks!

 

[BamSHO]

Valve cover removal isnt that hard, just have to remove vanity cover, intake runners and surge tank. Then remove coils, IMRC control box. I didnt soak my gaskets, I put a small bead of black goo in where the gasket seats into the valve cover and very small bead on the head. Also did the head where the spark plug well are. Had no leaks after doing this. Thats what I did, it doesnt take long, couple hours if you take you time and havent done it before.

Brian Michael
98 black Gen3

 

[My_Silver_SHO]

You can get both left and right < $100 at http://www.rocketracingperformance.com/

 

[98SF19]

I'm currently mid-stream and I need some advice . . .

So I got the valve covers off, but I can't say that it was any walk in the park. I thought I'd be disconnecting vacuum lines for days!! Of course the PITA part was the rear surge tank brackets - after removing the two top bolts, I spent way too long trying to simply LOOSEN the passenger side lower bolt (finally discovered it was 13 MM, not 12 MM like the top one). Seemed like it was stripped. But then I realized that with the top bolts gone, I was able to pull the tank up and out. This was only a small inconvenience since there is a valve cover bolt just fore of the passenger side surge tank bracket. But you can still get to it with an extension.

Other than that, I was befuddled at one point with the wiring harness. With all wiring brackets removed and coils popped out, I was able to loosen it enough to get both covers out, but only with some fennagling. Is this the normal procedure? I don't remember seeing that anywhere. There was a connection going under the compressor pulley that I couldn't detach, then another aft of the TB, and I didn't want to mess with the fuel lines. At this stage, my hands were so damn greasy, I couldn't grip anything. Did I miss a step in there? The section for the rear bank was wrapped in an orange plastic that was starting to disintegrate (I remember the guy that welded my cams upgraded the rear harness) and this section was quite stiff at first. I was still able to get both covers out, and there's currently a table mat lying over the open motor, with the wiring harness on top of it (I was able to wiggle the mat under the wiring). VC's and intake will get a treatment of Berrymans before going to the sandblaster tomorrow to get cleaned and powdercoated. To North Carolina we go till Tuesday. Then I get to try and remember everything I just did . . . BACKWARDS!!

While I have the motor opened up, would it be worth removing the secondaries? Also, the connectors that plug into the upper intake (into orange sensors) were old and brittle, and even though I realized that I didn't need to unplug them halfway through, I did anyway, and snapped a few of the side-locking tabs. The plug still fits onto the sensor, but vibrations will create problems as they're not held on by anything more than weak friction. Are these relatively simple to replace (wire-connector, not orange sensors)?

Thanks for any tips, suggestions, or advice, and sorry this is so long!

 

[SHOZ123]

Getting the front cover off with the AC harness there is a bit tricky. The passenger side surge tank support lower bolt is also a major ground for the motor. They should have put a washer between the stud hex and the ground strap. Be sure to put one on when reassembling and then the stud will come right off next time.

I used high temp split loom to insulate the rear coil wiring.

You don't need to disconnect the fuel lines. Just pop the fuel rail off the injectors and swing it up out of the way.

When putting the valve cover bolts back in do not over tighten them as they will break off. They are meant to be tightened until they are bottomed out and no more.

It helps to use some silicone grease on the bolt rubbers so they will come out easy next time and prevents ripping of the rubber.

 

[98SF19]

Paul,
Thanks for the info. I didn't need to loosen the bottom bolts for the surge tank supports. I'd read where you mentioned swapping the ground strap to the top bolt, but that's a moot point for me. I'll pick up some silicone grease and the split loom you mentioned. So the fuel rail just pops up? Never knew that (never needed to!)

Thanks again

 

[SHOZ123]

The fuel rail has two bolts. Then work it loose all along. Be careful on the o rings. Use some silicone grease on them too when reinstalling, not much just a thin coat.

Make sure the spit loom is hi temp, good for 300F or so. It usually has some sort of marker stripe.

The drivers side support I finally eliminated altogether.

 

[98SF19]

oh no

The work is done, but I have new problems. I spent most of yesterday putting the peices back together. Everything looked good. After taking a few pictures, I started it up and after some stumbling, it fired up. I let it run a few before taking it on a short drive, during which there were no problems, no CELs. I thought all was well.

This morning, no start. Starter is turning over strong, but no ignition. When leaving the key to Accessory, it seems that there IS now a CEL and the oil can light is also on (they didn't turn off after a few seconds).

I don't own a code reader, and since the car is in my driveway, I'm hoping that I can check a few things w/o having to have it towed to a shop.

Are there any snags which are common after changing VC gaskets?

Thanks

 

[SHOZ123]

There probably is something left disconnected. CEL will tell you what I bet.

 

[98SF19]

hope so!

That would be great, but I'm about 90% conf. that I got all loose ends reconnected. What's bothering me is that I accidentally broke off some of the connecting tabs on the sensors that connect to the top of the upper intake. They seemed to be press-fit on there pretty well. But they are easy to access if that is the problem. Also, if one of the plug seals or center bolt seals got loose when I was reassembling the VCs, I wouldn't know it. But the car seemed to be running fine last night, no codes, idled nicely for a good few minutes when I returned.

Looks like I'll be towing it somewhere (no cost), if for no other reason than to get the damn code.

 

[My_Silver_SHO]

Before towing...just recheck connections and vac lines.

 

[98SF19]

will do

I checked all connections last night before restarting (with success) and didn't see anything hanging, but I'll give it another look. I was just told by a former auto shop owner that there won't be a code until the motor is running - that the computer must see rpms before setting a code. If this is the case, then I might as well shoot some carb cleaner into the TB to see if I can get a start, then drive it to the shop. Whether or not it sets a code is irrelevent since I won't be able to read it. I could take it to Autozone or Advance and have them read it for free while it's running.

 

[SHOZ123]

One time I could not figure out why the car would not start after a tune up. I finally floored the gas while cranking. After about 20 seconds of continuous cranking it started. it was flooded.

 

[98SF19]

. . . and then?

Your starter didn't burn out after about 10 seconds? Helluva drain on the battery too. Did you have any issues with cold starts after that?

My latest: sprayed hi-either carb cleaner in the airbox this afternoon and after a few seconds of cranking, it started. The shop suspected a malfunctioning FPR. Before the VC gasket work, I had been noticing that it was hard to start in the morning (always needed to crank twice before it would start). So there are two FPRs, one being the stainless cylinder on the fuel rail and the other in the fuel tank? It started twice today after sitting for an hour. (Overnight might be a different story). Once I got the car started both times, it ran fine, and letting off the gas at cruising speed felt very smooth - a noticeable reduction in resistance (clean IAC/TB?). At first I thought cruise control was on.

So I didn't get that tow after all! :woo-hoo:

I need to tell the powdercoater shop that they need to plug the female threading a bit better if they do VCs again - I broke a rear harness stay bolt off yesterday (no big deal) but the mechanic today broke a bolt off where there was a coil bolt missing on the front bank (was missing from a rear coil for years with no problem) right as I began telling him to just put a bushing on the bolt instead of cranking it all the way down . . . and he's getting PAID to do that. :shakehead

 

[SHOZ123]

No the starter did not burn out. I had the original stater for the entire time I had the car.

You need a new mechanic.