Using Torque Wrench to torque down Crank Bolt

[Mr95Gl]

I'm in the midst of finishing up my front 60k, replacing the rear rotors/calipers/pads, and trying to get myself back into the car that I just locked myself out of, while trying to beat what seems to be a potential downpour that can happen at any minute now. I just picked up a Torque Wrench to torque back down the crank bolt. I've NEVER used a TW before, but I do know how to set it to the amount of torque you want to be put down on whichever bolt your tighten down.

So say, I'm torqueing down the crank bolt to 150ft lbs. Do I use the TW to tighten down the bolt from very loose to 150ft lbs? Or tighten it down with a Ratchet as far as I can, then use the TW? Also, should I torque down the Timing Belt tensioner, or do that with the Ratchet? Lastly, how many gallons of coolant will it take to fill back up the system? I just picked up 3 gallons. I don't think I drained every bit of coolant in the motor, but a good amount did run out. Thanks for any advice/suggestions!

 

[T.O_SHO]

You dont want to tighten from loose with the torque wrench. Tighten it until its "snug" with a rachet, then set the wrench to whatever the tourqe spec is, and then tighten with the tourq wrench until it clicks. The head will pivot about a centimeter to the left and right, and it will click telling you that you are right at that amount of tourqe.

 

[rangerj]

You can use a "strap wrench" to hold the pulley while you are torqing it down. If you do not hold it the engine compression is not enough to hold off 150 ft lbs of torque. The engine will turn over and you will not get the bolt tight. IIR the upper end of the torque specificatio9n is 150 ft lbs for the crank pulley bolt. You can use the lower end of the specification, or somewhere in between. The upper end of the specification is not necessary.

 

[projectSHO89]

Is this the ATX or MTX?

If MTX, put it in 5th gear and either have someone stand on the brake or use a crowbar between two of the wheelstuds and the garage floor to torque it down.

It this is your ATX, use a strap wrench on the dampener pulley.

Steve

 

[Mr95Gl]

Sorry I should've specified that it was the MTX. Thanks for all replies!!!

 

[Minnesho]

3 gallons is more than enough, but remember to mix it 50/50. do not just run straight coolant. or did you buy the premix?

 

[Mr95Gl]

3 gallons is more than enough, but remember to mix it 50/50. do not just run straight coolant. or did you buy the premix?

It's premixed, but what's the potential danger of running straight coolant?

 

[CerberuS]

Too rich coolant =

-no heat
-clogged rad (or else)
-prematured failiure of parts related to coolant (EX: water pump)
-Corrosion of internal engine parts.

Its a big no-no.

 

[Mr95Gl]

Too rich coolant =

-no heat
-clogged rad (or else)
-prematured failiure of parts related to coolant (EX: water pump)
-Corrosion of internal engine parts.

Its a big no-no.

Woah, never thought about that. It's funny, because I've never put straight coolant in any vehicles I've owned. I always hear people saying to mix the coolant, etc, but was never given a reason as to why. Guess that sums it up, thanks!

 

[CerberuS]

Thats for 100% pure coolant. Its very toxic , and its corroding parts like crazy when pure.

If you slam in a liter (pure) once in awhile , it wont do such a thing , it will be dilluted to 10-20 liters of the old stuff.

 

[gmorrell]

If MTX, put it in 5th gear and either have someone stand on the brake or use a crowbar between two of the wheelstuds and the garage floor to torque it down.
Steve

If you can't get a helper to stand on the brakes, put the trans in 5th gear, take a couple of 3/8" extension bars and drop them into a cooling slot on each brake rotor, then rotate the rotors so the extension bars bear against the brake calipers.

Gary M.