Used Buyer's Guide- What to Look For?

[Coronach]

OK, I have managed to scare up 3 SHOs that are in my area and price range, and I'm trying to decide between them. I know which one I want, based upon price, miles, and options, so the subjective/intangible part of "which car do I buy?" is taken care of. And, I know generally what to look for in a used car (clean vehicle history, no obvious damage, body lines and gaps are straight and consistent, check the tires for abnormal wear, fluid level check and look for leaks, push the buttons and make sure the bells and whistles work, etc). But, this is my first SHO (actually, my first forced-induction vehicle since ... holy crap, high school). Anything in particular to look for on this beast?

For reference, I'm looking at two 2015s and a '16 with the PP (I want the 16).

Thanks again, you guys have been really helpful.

Mike

 

[luigisho]

If they are privately owned look at the owners and any modifications. Heavily modded=driven hard. You know what to look for. There are no guarantees with used cars unless you know how they were driven and cared for. I would get a good Ford mechanic (who does alot of warranty work and potentially knows where the weaknesses are) to do an independent inspection before I cut the check just for peace of mind.

 

[Coronach]

At least 2 of the 3 I'm looking at (including the one I'm leaning towards) are lease-returns. So, that should reduce the chances of it being flogged to death (it can't eliminate it, I know).

Question: the existing factory waranties should transfer, right? Even if I'm buying it from a non-Ford dealer? The one I really want still has bumper-to-bumper and a good bit of its powertrain warranty left.

Mike

 

[luigisho]

At least 2 of the 3 I'm looking at (including the one I'm leaning towards) are lease-returns. So, that should reduce the chances of it being flogged to death (it can't eliminate it, I know).

Question: the existing factory waranties should transfer, right? Even if I'm buying it from a non-Ford dealer? The one I really want still has bumper-to-bumper and a good bit of its powertrain warranty left.

Mike

Depends on who the owner was. Imagine you had a sports(ish) car with bumper to bumper and knew you were not going to keep it long term. How would you drive it? I might beat on it pretty good. You might not. Depends...

I believe they transfer. I would double check that with a Ford person to be sure. I would even consider an extended powertrain warranty after the original is up. General FYI--I got a quote for a 4yr./48k mile(ish) on my F150 nearing 100k miles on the odo. last month, so I think 100k to still purchase an extended Ford warranty is about the limit.
But if you are going to modify it never mind. I'm sure most can and will deny for just about anything if they find it.

There are a few weak points on this design. The sleeper quickness is very cool. You have to be sober about potential higher than average big dollar repairs. If you increase hp/torque some risk goes up. If you can live with that then rock on.

 

[RAYJAY]

if there not at a ford dealership, have a dealership run a ford oasis report on them all you would need is the vin number, you should be able to buy the extended warranties all the above cars

 

[rubydist]

factory warranty transfers automatically. any extended coverage will have a transfer fee, but most are able to be transferred (the warranty document will detail the process for transferring it). calling the Ford dealer and getting them to run the Oasis report is a very good idea.

as long as it has existing factory "bumper to bumper" coverage in place, you can buy the extended Ford coverage without having to do the extensive inspection first.

 

[Coronach]

Ok, I had an OASIS pulled. Looks pretty clean, no outstanding recalls, no ARN messages, the only warranty repair was a tire replacement.

The only thing that seems like it might be odd, but is probably fine, is that two extended coverages are listed as expired: 0968 and 0972. Not sure what those are.

Anything else to look for?

 

[tech10002]

Others know a lot more about SHOs than I do so I’ll leave weakness type questions to them. But all other things being equal, I’d go for the 16 if it’s not significantly more. It will have Sync 3 instead of My Ford touch, and it’s night and day difference. You can add it to the 15s after the fact, but you’re gonna spend at least a grand unless you’re really lucky getting the parts, and it’s a pretty technically complex job unless you buy the 2k pre programmed kits.

 

[Coronach]

yep, I'm going for the 16, uness I see it and there is something wrong with it.

 

[Lostneye]

Others know a lot more about SHOs than I do so I’ll leave weakness type questions to them. But all other things being equal, I’d go for the 16 if it’s not significantly more. It will have Sync 3 instead of My Ford touch, and it’s night and day difference. You can add it to the 15s after the fact, but you’re gonna spend at least a grand unless you’re really lucky getting the parts, and it’s a pretty technically complex job unless you buy the 2k pre programmed kits.

I agree but if you source the parts yourself with the APIM and screen from a salvage yard it shouldn't be hard to stay under $350 for the swap without nav still under $500 with.

 

[Coronach]

Well, the latest post reminded me:

The OASIS report saved me a bit of disappointment, the 2016 PP was not a PP car. It just had the PP-looking rims. The axle ratio proved it, along with the lack of a Traction Control button. I walked on the deal.

On the plus side, I'm (potentially) spending a little more money (about a grand), and looking at a '16 with no PP but with the Driver Assist system ... and only 20k on the ODO. We'll see how that one turns looks.

 

[Lostneye]

You can register with ETIS and run VINs, it won't give you history on the car but will give the full options.

FYI if you buy a 2016 it will have SYNC3 but not the updated USB hub in the center storage bin for carplay. $40 on ebay and possibly updating to a more current version of SYNC will get you carplay.

 

[Coronach]

That's apple-specific, right? I'm an Android user.

 

[Lostneye]

Yes, that's for apple. For Android Auto I habve no idea if the old hub works or not. I believe you need at least SYNC3 version 2.0, easy to update software but seems like a lot of people don't bother.

 

[Johnbigdog]

Yes, that's for apple. For Android Auto I habve no idea if the old hub works or not. I believe you need at least SYNC3 version 2.0, easy to update software but seems like a lot of people don't bother.

Android users don't need the updated hub. Android auto is leaps n bounds over the factory navigation.

 

[tech10002]

Well, the latest post reminded me:

The OASIS report saved me a bit of disappointment, the 2016 PP was not a PP car. It just had the PP-looking rims. The axle ratio proved it, along with the lack of a Traction Control button. I walked on the deal.

On the plus side, I'm (potentially) spending a little more money (about a grand), and looking at a '16 with no PP but with the Driver Assist system ... and only 20k on the ODO. We'll see how that one turns looks.

The adaptive cruise control is awesome. I had gotten used to it on the wife’s Flex. I don’t think I could live without it now. That’s why I specifically didn’t look for a performance pack. Would be nice if you could get both, though.

 

[Coronach]

You can get both, apparently, just not through Ford. I was reading that some enterprising lads had added it after buying the parts individually, either through Ford or from salvage yards. You then need to get the black boxes reprogrammed to recognize the new unit. It sounded like an expensive and complex PITA, but possible.

 

[sperold]

You could get it in 2013.

It was a one year only offering.

No one knows why.

 

[Coronach]

Could you JUST get adaptive cruise with the PP, or could get both packages, PP and DA?

 

[Coronach]

in 2013, I mean. I know you can't now.