Upper valvetrain noise..

[vortex2450]

My swapped 3.2l has a lot of valve-train noise, I've checked the timing chain tensioners and they are taught..

It sounds like what a worn out lifter would sound like on a push rod engine.

It's bothering me a lot, I'm running Mobil 1 5w-30 syn with a Mobil 1 filter. The timing belt & tensioner are new...

I've been searching and reading posts and from the descriptions the noises that seem similar are warnings of rod bearing failures..

I do not need that. So should I start planning for doing the rod bearings and valve lash?

FYI: the engine has 143k and it sames pretty well maintained, everything else that came with the engine was clean, the PO seemed pretty capable but I can't make promises..

-Josh

 

[kevinspann]

How loud is it? Any kind of oil light at idle? Rod bearings wouldn't hurt, but with the luck you've had so far you might want to leave them alone...atxs usually aren't as ******* them as mtxs. Some cars run forever with no valve adjustment...its not THAT big of a deal. I have no idea if mine has ever been done, but I have the rotunda tools if I ever get around to it.

 

[rubydist]

did you check valve lash when you did the swap? maybe it spit out a shim?

 

[JRA2000TL]

Had the same issue with my old 90. Never figured out the problem. Chains were tight, all valves were in spec, etc. Drove it over 3k miles w/ that noise (and hit high rpms quite a few times), so if it were a bearing, it would have trashed the engine a long time ago. After I sold it to Daniel, he drove it about a month and it spun a bearing. Still not sure that's what the cause was; may have been something else internal. I routinely checked the noise at the pan and it was quiet at the bottom end. The noise was only concentrated at the far left cylinder toward the front of the car.

 

[SHOracer14]

I have a similar problem with my current 95' MTX. I am tearing it apart this weekend to do the valve lash. Hopefully I will find some answers then.

 

[vortex2450]

How loud is it? Any kind of oil light at idle? Rod bearings wouldn't hurt, but with the luck you've had so far you might want to leave them alone...atxs usually aren't as ******* them as mtxs. Some cars run forever with no valve adjustment...its not THAT big of a deal. I have no idea if mine has ever been done, but I have the rotunda tools if I ever get around to it.

It's not obnoxiously loud, it's mainly audible during a cold start. Not oil light flickers or anything, the cars idles @ ~ 20 psi and during highway driving it stays around 40 psi . I never had it drop lower than 15 psi..

And I know my luck is bad, exactly why I'm concerned....

did you check valve lash when you did the swap? maybe it spit out a shim?

No I did not, mainly because i don't have any of the tools, what do I need to check clearances? just the feeler gauge? but When a SHO spits out a shim it will miss horribly (ask me how I know)

Had the same issue with my old 90. Never figured out the problem. Chains were tight, all valves were in spec, etc. Drove it over 3k miles w/ that noise (and hit high rpms quite a few times), so if it were a bearing, it would have trashed the engine a long time ago. After I sold it to Daniel, he drove it about a month and it spun a bearing. Still not sure that's what the cause was; may have been something else internal. I routinely checked the noise at the pan and it was quiet at the bottom end. The noise was only concentrated at the far left cylinder toward the front of the car.

I have to buy a mechanics stethoscope sometime but it seems to be coming exactly from the area you described.

I have a similar problem with my current 95' MTX. I am tearing it apart this weekend to do the valve lash. Hopefully I will find some answers then.

Let me know how it goes, I am **** and the more I hear the noise the more it aggravates me, mainly being as I haven't had this engine in the car for more the 1000 miles.. I know it has 143k but still, it's aggravating..


-Josh

PS: Also the car seems to be eating o2 sensors, I replaced both when I swapped the engine, a month later it started throwing the 172 code and the rear sensor was dead, as in I could hear rattling inside with a light shake. Now I just checked codes and they only code I'm throwing is 172 again. And I suspect once again it's in the rear bank...

 

[SHOracer14]

PS: Also the car seems to be eating o2 sensors, I replaced both when I swapped the engine, a month later it started throwing the 172 code and the rear sensor was dead, as in I could hear rattling inside with a light shake. Now I just checked codes and they only code I'm throwing is 172 again. And I suspect once again it's in the rear bank...

Where are you buying said O2's/ what brand are they? No other odd running issues, misses or any other strange symptoms?

 

[vortex2450]

Where are you buying said O2's/ what brand are they? No other odd running issues, misses or any other strange symptoms?

The replacement set @ the swap came from rock auto, Bosch #13492 , I replaced it with an updated Bosch #13492 from Advance Auto..

The only other notable noise is some valve-train noise, which I posted about in a separate thread, what doesn't make that seem suspicious is the fact that the sensor originally on the car before the swap died and had the same rattling inside..

I don't know, I'll be under the car tomorrow and check it out, if the sensor isn't broken I'll reinstall it and clear the ECU memory..

I'll update after that, boy it would be nice to finally have that CE light not staring me down during my evening drives... All that's left is this simple 172 code...


-Josh

 

[SHOracer14]

The replacement set @ the swap came from rock auto, Bosch #13492 , I replaced it with an updated Bosch #13492 from Advance Auto..

The only other notable noise is some valve-train noise, which I posted about in a separate thread, what doesn't make that seem suspicious is the fact that the sensor originally on the car before the swap died and had the same rattling inside..

I don't know, I'll be under the car tomorrow and check it out, if the sensor isn't broken I'll reinstall it and clear the ECU memory..

I'll update after that, boy it would be nice to finally have that CE light not staring me down during my evening drives... All that's left is this simple 172 code...


-Josh

I have personally not had great luck with anything bosch. There really isn't much that can damage them unless you are running crazy rich or creating a TON of heat. I noticed in the other thread you mentioned the y-pipe is modified. If the O2 is too close to the manifold it could cause an issue.

 

[rubydist]

so it misses horribly but only has a 172 code?

to check valve clearance all you need is a flat feeler gauge and some time.

 

[vortex2450]

I have personally not had great luck with anything bosch. There really isn't much that can damage them unless you are running crazy rich or creating a TON of heat. I noticed in the other thread you mentioned the y-pipe is modified. If the O2 is too close to the manifold it could cause an issue.

I didn't think anything of buying the Bosch brand sensors, that's just what was in the middle price range so that's what I went for...


And those are my thoughts exactly, It's not running extremely rich but i didn't notice my mileage is lacking ~ 25mpg v 28mpg which is what I got after the swap before I started having issues.

I am beginning to think the sensor itself is to close to the manifold as your said, I'll snap a picture of it and post it for further opinions..

thanks,
Josh

so it misses horribly but only has a 172 code?

to check valve clearance all you need is a flat feeler gauge and some time.

Honestly I don't know where that came from but no, it is just throwing a 172 code, no missing, some valve train noise is the only other notable noise issue.

Just a flat feeler gauge? Probably something I could pick up from an auto parts store??


-Josh

 

[AREA 91]

I didn't think anything of buying the Bosch brand sensors, that's just what was in the middle price range so that's what I went for...


And those are my thoughts exactly, It's not running extremely rich but i didn't notice my mileage is lacking ~ 25mpg v 28mpg which is what I got after the swap before I started having issues.

I am beginning to think the sensor itself is to close to the manifold as your said, I'll snap a picture of it and post it for further opinions..

thanks,
Josh

If the O2 sensor's are too close to the manifold, they will wear out quicker.



Honestly I don't know where that came from but no, it is just throwing a 172 code, no missing, some valve train noise is the only other notable noise issue.

Just a flat feeler gauge? Probably something I could pick up from an auto parts store??


-Josh

Yup. You need a set of feeler guages that will cover .006-.014

Intake gap .006-.010
Exhaust gap .010-.014

 

[SHOracer14]

Got mine apart and all shims were in spec. Found that I have a bad rear chain tensioner.