Upgrading Suspension. What to get(did search)

[Speedy_91_SHO]

I am looking to upgrade the suspension on my SHO and I didn't find the answers I wanted during a search. I am not sure which strut/spring combo to get. I don't know wether I want Sway bars or if i need them. I also don't know what bushings to get. The car is a daily driver so I want a semi comfortable ride, but it can be somewhat harsh. Also, which STB's should I go with. The current mods I have are in my sig including the Quaife. Thanks, Chris

 

[PROPHET]

If you want a more comfortable ride that gets more aggresive when you need it, go with Eibach springs with either Konis or Tokicos.

If you don't mind the harsher ride all the time go with the Intrax springs with either of those struts and the car will sit lower.

Subframe connectors are a must i got mine from Nooks.

Strut tower braces, at the very least get for the rear one.

Aluminum subframe bushings another must from SHOnut.

From what ive heard from people that frequent track events 21/26mm combo seems to be the best not sure whos selling these at the moment you could try www.spmotorsports.com along with energy suspension bushings.

For more track oriented you'd want GTP tubular arms can be found on ebay once in a while.

H-brace also from Nooks.

You already have the most important part the Quaife and some stopping power, should be really nice when you have everything installed.

 

[Speedy_91_SHO]

Thanks Tony, I have SFC's and Aluminum SFB's, but I did forget about the H-brace.

 

[Keith M]

I have almost the exact setup Tony described (Tokico/Eibach, etc.), with the addition of TPR sway bar bushings, but no h-brace or tubular arms. Be aware that even though the Eibach's are "progressive rate", they stiffen up almost immediately, and all the other mods taken together will conspire to stiffen everything considerably. Ride on my car is quite unlike stock, very stiff and a little harsh over anything but glass smooth pavement. I like it.

 

[SuperG]

And really, the H-brace is for folks who are really beating on their cars on the tracks...but it is also only $70 and an easy install...

 

[Yamaha V6]

All-around street use, Tokico / Eibach is great. The more you do to the suspension, the more you will feel it, but the better the control & turn-in will be.

Strut braces (I think this is what you meant to say, not sway bars), are a nice, relatively inexpensive modification that doesn't add to the harshness. Welded SFCs I highly recommend, thought they can interfere with the hangar placement on the exhaust & the fuel filter replacement if not careful.

17" wheels are a double-edged sword. Great modification for control, but combined with the other mods will yield a rough ride.

If you replace the rear control arms with anything, you may as well strengthen the rear control box as well. As Gary mentioned, it's only ($X) amount more. I have the FPS adjustable rear arms on mine, and it made a huge difference in the ability to dial in the correct toe AND camber. However, it was a PITA to install, and if replacing the springs / struts, you can just add ProSuspension's adjustable camber plates instead. The FPS arms appear MUCH stronger than the stockers, though.

Replacing the bushings across the car might turn out to be a PITA, but it's going to help return the car to as-new performance as well.

Strut Rod Bushings (front & rear), strut mounts & bearing plates, lower control arms / ball joints, tie rod ends, endlinks, subframe bushings (stock or aftermarket) & swaybar bushings will help tighten things up nicely.

Expect aluminum SFBs to transmit a bit more road & driveline vibration / feedback through the chassis & steering wheel, but it shouldn't be anything horrible.

 

[Shoaz]

If you replace the rear control arms with anything, you may as well strengthen the rear control box as well. As Gary mentioned, it's only ($X) amount more. I have the FPS adjustable rear arms on mine, and it made a huge difference in the ability to dial in the correct toe AND camber. However, it was a PITA to install, and if replacing the springs / struts, you can just add ProSuspension's adjustable camber plates instead. The FPS arms appear MUCH stronger than the stockers, though.

The installation issues are the big reason I sold my FPS arms and got the BMRs instead. I saw no point in modifying the knuckles and torque box to accomodate those arms while other alternatives beckoned. It's not like there aren't metric Heim joints available, either.

FWIW, the GM or BMR arms are bolt-ins and pretty easy to install. They also provide the full adjustment capability that Fred mentioned.

And, yes, if you're gonna put aftermarket arms in the back, it's really easy to put the H-brace in at the same time. Josh still sells Todd's knuckle braces, too.

 

[DHMag]

im running Tokico struts with modified Moog Cargo Coil springs. stiff ride, loves the twisties and is comfortable on the highway. only negative is it doesnt like rough/bumpy roads.

 

[Foxwulfe]

My observations on the tradeoffs

Chris, there is much you can do with suspension, and there is much you can do wrong.

Keep in mind that I have owned, casually raced (road course, autocross, and dragstrip), and worked on many cars, not just SHOs. Also, I know you a little bit, and what your needs are. You also live in Toledo, and drive on Toledo roads. This is also your only driver, and you want it NOT to be harsh.

Tires and wheels:
Go with a set of dedicated summer tires and nice wheels, around the 17X7-8'" size, 225-245 section width. Put the slicers and some all-season tires on for the snow months. (Sell your Cobra's to me!) This is the first thing that you should do, for it is ultimately where the car meets the pavement.

Brakes:
Go with '96 sized front brakes, stock replacement rotors, and play with pads. PFC has not let me down yet. You get easy to get stock parts and stock reliability.

Sway bars:
The 24/26 setup you have now is nice, but maybe try a 22mm front bar. TPR front and rear bushings, as well as aluminum or nylon front endlinks and TPR rear endlinks will firm things up.

Strut tower braces, h-brace, tubular rear control arms:
Nice to have, but in my opinion not worth the money or hassle for your uses.

Struts:
This is sort of difficult. They made many Taurui; few of them SHOs. All the common replacement struts are for the more common application: SLOs! The Sachs struts (available from SHOX.com) seem to be direct replacement SHO items (can anyone confirm?), and are the ones that I would go with in a hearbeat. However, if you have the money, Koni's are the way to go with their somewhat adjustability. Do not forget to replace the strut mounts and bearing plates with the appropriate parts, as they are wear items.

Springs:
Think where you live! Do you cherish your internal organs, and ground clearance? I once knew a kid who had a bruised tailbone, but his CRX daily driver would hang with my TII at the track. Leave your stock springs in, or try stock or slightly modified MOOG cargo coils first. I have no firsthand experience, but the numbers seem nice. Plus, they are cheap and easily available.

Playing with components on your car is a process, not a done deal. Make changes, observations, adjustments, and have fun. Just because it costs more, has a better name, or everyone has it, does not make it work for YOU.

Justin

 

[MilTownSHO]

He will have all the suspension he can handle in a day or two

 

[Foxwulfe]

He will have all the suspension he can handle in a day or two

Some of my observations come from seat time in SHOs equipped similar or the same as what you are referring to. Comes down to personal preference sometimes, I guess.