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kryptto

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the 3rd cat is unmonitored, and near #9 hangers, its connected to the resonator. So if he pulled the resonator he pulled the third cat, which wont matter to the tuning company. see my post for what did you do to your sho lately, I have pictures of the resonator and third cat.

 

onanysunday

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So this is all I've got underneath. I am guessing it's the resonator? That means I don't have a 3rd cat and no muffler(s) I guess..

EDIT: Looks like I have resonator and muffler delete. Thanks Kryptto.
 

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Ta2dResqr

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So this is all I've got underneath. I am guessing it's the resonator? That means I don't have a 3rd cat and no muffler(s) I guess..

EDIT: Looks like I have resonator and muffler delete. Thanks Kryptto.
That is your third cat.
Ok, thanks. I may do that. So the V65 3.5 EB engine is transverse? I have the K&N 2820 clamp-on air filter, factory cats and a 2-into-2 glass pack muffler only. It's loud and should have increased intake and exhaust flow to work with (for added performance). Didn't the stock exhaust system come with like two sets of mufflers for some reason? Mine only has one muffler where the central muffler is pictured here.

EDIT: Updated exhaust component identification picture for reference
The V6 3.5 EcoBoost in the Taurus, Flex, and Explorer are Transverse. F150 and Expedition V6 3.5 EcoBoost are not.
The stock air box outflows the stock turbos. The K&N panel filter is the better route because it blocks the hot air that your clamp-on style is exposed to.
To get the vehicle tuned, you will need a 3-bar MAP. You could get very mild changes made but, I doubt anyone will go that route. They are going to start you on a base map for a stock 3-bar car and then do a couple of data logs and retunes. A 2-bar sensor will only read ~29psi. Subtract 14.7 psi at sea level for atmospheric pressure. That leaves ~14.3 psi. The stock system is ~8-9 psi. You are already at the upper limits. Even if they only turn it up to 12-13 psi, you are on the very edge of what the stock sensor can see. Sensors are not as accurate at the limits of their readings.
 

kryptto

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That is your third cat.

The V6 3.5 EcoBoost in the Taurus, Flex, and Explorer are Transverse. F150 and Expedition V6 3.5 EcoBoost are not.
The stock air box outflows the stock turbos. The K&N panel filter is the better route because it blocks the hot air that your clamp-on style is exposed to.
To get the vehicle tuned, you will need a 3-bar MAP. You could get very mild changes made but, I doubt anyone will go that route. They are going to start you on a base map for a stock 3-bar car and then do a couple of data logs and retunes. A 2-bar sensor will only read ~29psi. Subtract 14.7 psi at sea level for atmospheric pressure. That leaves ~14.3 psi. The stock system is ~8-9 psi. You are already at the upper limits. Even if they only turn it up to 12-13 psi, you are on the very edge of what the stock sensor can see. Sensors are not as accurate at the limits of their readings.
Well described and written...
 

onanysunday

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That is your third cat.

The V6 3.5 EcoBoost in the Taurus, Flex, and Explorer are Transverse. F150 and Expedition V6 3.5 EcoBoost are not.
The stock air box outflows the stock turbos. The K&N panel filter is the better route because it blocks the hot air that your clamp-on style is exposed to.
To get the vehicle tuned, you will need a 3-bar MAP. You could get very mild changes made but, I doubt anyone will go that route. They are going to start you on a base map for a stock 3-bar car and then do a couple of data logs and retunes. A 2-bar sensor will only read ~29psi. Subtract 14.7 psi at sea level for atmospheric pressure. That leaves ~14.3 psi. The stock system is ~8-9 psi. You are already at the upper limits. Even if they only turn it up to 12-13 psi, you are on the very edge of what the stock sensor can see. Sensors are not as accurate at the limits of their readings.
That's helpful and informative. Mine came with the stock airbox already removed, so instead of trying to find all the missing parts, I went with a larger K&N clamp-on with a carbon fiber heat shield. I wonder what the psi limit is on the stock turbos?
 

kryptto

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That's helpful and informative. Mine came with the stock airbox already removed, so instead of trying to find all the missing parts, I went with a larger K&N clamp-on with a carbon fiber heat shield. I wonder what the psi limit is on the stock turbos?
As explained.to me the stock box with a Kan drop in is more than enough for stock turbos
 

onanysunday

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Any substantive difference between tuners? X4 vs BDX vs others? Some are newer, etc, but does it really matter (at all) in terms of what they're capable of when the rubber meets the road? Also, if a 3-bar MAP sensor is required, is a 170 thermostat also required for decent gains -and does that also necessitate an upgraded intercooler? Is it $100 extra for every tune that gh provides? Still wondering how much more performance the stock turbos are capable of (in terms of psi) with a 3-bar MAP sensor and tune if anyone knows.
 

kryptto

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To get the vehicle tuned, you will need a 3-bar MAP. You could get very mild changes made but, I doubt anyone will go that route. They are going to start you on a base map for a stock 3-bar car and then do a couple of data logs and retunes. A 2-bar sensor will only read ~29psi. Subtract 14.7 psi at sea level for atmospheric pressure. That leaves ~14.3 psi. The stock system is ~8-9 psi. You are already at the upper limits. Even if they only turn it up to 12-13 psi, you are on the very edge of what the stock sensor can see. Sensors are not as accurate at the limits of their readings.
@Ta2dResqr explained the gains in the quote above.

SCT is the tuner to go with, and I bought the HP tuner as well. On this particular platform, the different vendors out there like Gearhead - 5 StarTuning, Ortiz, or whoever you decide to tune - they all use SCT. The differences of the different models of SCT - are on their website.
 

76FoMoCo

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The livewire loads much faster than the x4 and can display up to 9 gauges at one time. You can do just plugs and a 3 bar without the stat. Yes the 3 bar is worth it. As for the price of the tunes each does there own things.
 

onanysunday

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That is your third cat.

The V6 3.5 EcoBoost in the Taurus, Flex, and Explorer are Transverse. F150 and Expedition V6 3.5 EcoBoost are not.
The stock air box outflows the stock turbos. The K&N panel filter is the better route because it blocks the hot air that your clamp-on style is exposed to.
To get the vehicle tuned, you will need a 3-bar MAP. You could get very mild changes made but, I doubt anyone will go that route. They are going to start you on a base map for a stock 3-bar car and then do a couple of data logs and retunes. A 2-bar sensor will only read ~29psi. Subtract 14.7 psi at sea level for atmospheric pressure. That leaves ~14.3 psi. The stock system is ~8-9 psi. You are already at the upper limits. Even if they only turn it up to 12-13 psi, you are on the very edge of what the stock sensor can see. Sensors are not as accurate at the limits of their readings.
As I read it, that only relates to a 2-Bar MAP sensor, not a 3-Bar, and doesn't mention what the stock turbos are capable of when they aren't being limited.
 

SM105K

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As I read it, that only relates to a 2-Bar MAP sensor, not a 3-Bar, and doesn't mention what the stock turbos are capable of when they aren't being limited.
Form that I have seen tuned cars with 3 bar map see a sustained 17 to 19 psi on the stock turbos up to redline depending on tuner. Most taper down though. The stock turbos become highly inefficient in the higher teens of boost pressure as well. They are out of their efficiency zone/map and literally become tiny blow torches. Best to have a upgraded IC, Meth, or E30 to combat that thermal onslaught.

Stock turbos are not designed to pull big boost in the upper range. These turbos work best in the low to mid range. The newer upgraded turbos work better in the mid and upper range.
 

xekrubx

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So I’ve been told that the CANBUS built-in system (like with Lasfit) doesn’t work. I had a pair of Lasfits and I noticed after like 8-10 blinks it would start to hyperflash. Forscan is definitely the way to go. Let me find a pic.View attachment 88302


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I dont even think I waited for the photo before ordering the bulbs and the forscan usb cable. By flicker I meant like a cold start shudder while it was displaying amber during that 0.75 seconds of unlock. It was gone after a few flashes. But I didn't like the balance of white and amber.
 
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xekrubx

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Auxito has the perfect ratio of orange to white in my opinion. Little pricey. You can get iBrightstar off of Amazon and those are fine too just slightly less quality. Brightness wise they are fine though. Also look into Forscan - will solve a lot of issues


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The Auxito are prefect. Disabled hyperflash on the front. Regular level of amber. Bright white. Like real DRL.
I definitely like how they cancel the white light when they signal. My LASFIT or whatever was dim white and stayed lit during the blinding amber signal.
 

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BigStu123

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The Auxito are prefect. Disabled hyperflash on the front. Regular level of amber. Bright white. Like real DRL.
I definitely like how they cancel the white light when they signal. My LASFIT or whatever was dim white and stayed lit during the blinding amber signal.

Looks good dude glad you went with them!


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Luhsleeper88

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I can’t see the question please help
Any substantive difference between tuners? X4 vs BDX vs others? Some are newer, etc, but does it really matter (at all) in terms of what they're capable of when the rubber meets the road? Also, if a 3-bar MAP sensor is required, is a 170 thermostat also required for decent gains -and does that also necessitate an upgraded intercooler? Is it $100 extra for every tune that gh provides? Still wondering how much more performance the stock turbos are capable of (in terms of psi) with a 3-bar MAP sensor and tune if anyone knows.

That’s a good question is it 100 extra for every tune that gh provides?


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Ta2dResqr

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That’s a good question is it 100 extra for every tune that gh provides?


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GH sends you the one tune you ask for. He has 2 options based on a new tune. One is a revision ($50) and one is a custom tune ($150). It depends on what you are wanting and how much work it is. Are you looking for 2 levels of power or are you curious about future modifications?
 

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