*UPDATE* - Need Advice from the SHO Masters

[Chaz1123]

Hi Guys,

Please check the history of this problem under my member #6025.

I've cleaned the air filter and MAF, replaced a badly corroded and chinsy neg battery terminal clamp, and had the fuel filter replaced. Still having the stalling and bucking problems mentioned earlier. I'm about to buy a new IAC and replace it. Does anybody know if there is a difference between the WELLS (AZ), and the AC DELCO (rockauto,com) other than the price?

 

[sdpatt]

Why don't you re-read the history yourself? You haven't mentioned anything about dealing with the plugs and wires.

 

[BlackOnBlackATX]

did you do a 100k with the plugs and wires or do you know if a previous owner did it? it could be the IAC and its good you replaced the battery clamp. better to get to those things before they leave you stranded (it happened to me). but check to see if there is oil in the plug wells. i had bad stumbling and it turned out i had one bad plug wire arcing and causing it all.

 

[Chaz1123]

The plugs and wires were done at 104k. I don't really have the expertise, nor the resources, to check them myself. If the easier fixes that I can do myself don't do the trick, I will have someone check those for me.

 

[Bizzy]

With 49k on the current plugs and wires, it would be a good idea to check them. You'd be surprised at how much difference they will make.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Grab a front plug boot, twist and pull and it will come out. Examine the front three for signs of oil, arcing, cracks, etc. If the plugs are swimming in oil, that's probably a significant part of the problem.

The Wells IAC from AZ is fine. The MTX SHO shares the same IAC as many FLM vehicles. In any case, I'd recommend doing a little more diagnostics before shelling out $$$ for a part that may not be the source of the problem.

Does your tach stay steady when you experience the bucking? Does it drop down to (or close to) zero, even if just for a instant when bucking? Also, how old is your timing belt?

 

[Chaz1123]

Timing belt was done @ 84k. It was checked when I had the CPS replaced, and I was told that it was in good shape and didn't need to be done at that time. I was low on cash at the time, so that was good news. I know, I know, I should've had it done with the engine apart, but I only had enough to get the thing running.

The tach stays fairly steady while bucking. It moves about the same as when its having trouble idling. It does not come near zero. That was happening a few months ago, and it was the CPS.

If I do have oil in the wells, is it just a matter of cleaning them out, or do I have to get new plugs/wires?

Mr. Anonymous, I grew up in Burlington MA!

 

[Chaz1123]

Alright, I checked the front 3 wells, and found oil in them, especially #5 & #6. Per instructions on the matter, I took the top to a windex bottle and began to syphon it out. The oil made the trip up the tube but, it wouldn't come out of the nozzle into the empty bottle. I thought it may have been clogged with the oil, so I tried another one, and the same thing happened. It appeared as if it was blowing bubbles in the oil. Pulling the trigger with the tube submerged in water yeilded the same result.
So after destoying two spray nozzles, I soaked up the oil using a rag and a screwdriver. I don't know how much I was able to get out, and because I no longer had a syphon, I didn't spray any carb cleaner (B12) in there. Checking the other 3 wells proved to be too difficult for me. I don't the tools, knowlegde, or a nice warm garage to do the job.

Took it for a spin and it seemed to run fine for a bit, then the sputtering idle returned when at a stop, and shortly thereafter the bucking. She stalled 3 times, and after the 3rd, the engine would no longer start. It cranks and has battery power, but it will not turn over. CEL came on, but I have not checked codes yet. The tow truck driver just dropped me off, and its too dark to check them. Will do that tomorrow.

I have a feeling that the fuel pump has finally died. Anyone have any other theories?

 

[projectSHO89]

Get your codes first....

Steve

 

[Chaz1123]

Ok, I went out to read the codes today. After hooking up the test connector, I turned the key for the KOEO test, and all I got was an OIL, BATTERY, and a dim CEL. Nothing else happened. The fan and fuel pump did not turn on. What does this mean?

 

[JoeG]

Check to make sure you have the paperclip or jumper wire in the two pins correctly. They have to make contact with the metal connectors inside to make a complete circuit.

Joe

 

[projectSHO89]

A dim CEL means either a wiring harness problem, a computer problem, or you incorrectly installed the jumper wire.

Steve

 

[Chaz1123]

Well I went back and tried the test again, connecting and disconnecting the jumper to make sure I had it hooked up right, and I still get the situation described above (OIL, BATTERY, and CEL). Does this mean I have a computer or wiring problem as Steve says? How can I troubleshoot it?

 

[projectSHO89]

Make certain that you have connected the single wire plug (STI - Self Test Input) to signal ground. You can also just ground this single terminal to chassis ground to activate the self test.

Otherwise, look here: Dim CEL advice.

Steve