Unregistered air leak found and coolant leak fixed.

[MCIntimidator]

First off, thank you @gamefanatic for pointing out the unregistered air leak sound. When my new injectors arrived I obviously tore down to the point needed to replace them. Went ahead and ran all new air hose for intake and PCV valve routes while being that far down in the engine. Upon inspection of all bolts and hoses to get there. I noticed 4 of the lower intake manifold bolts were not tightened (my mistake) . I found the whistling sound I was hearing when my schrader valve was leaking.

I also found that one of my pintile caps for my fuel injectors was broken in half and crooked in the manifold housing for them (problem 3). It was blocking fuel flow to one of bank 1's cylinders. I should have never put them back in because of budget. I know better than this.

Had I not gone back to check for unregistered air leaks. Problem 2 of a 3 part solution could still have me searching. This all happened after the y pipe (problem 1) hose busting (fixed with new brass y pipe, pics show a t which was used until the Y's arrived, thank you @GEN 3 SHO FAN for that information) that returns coolant from the heads to the reservoir. She's now fixed and running excellent.

Here are some pics of this maintenace that could have turned tragic but didn't. Pretty sure I would have found my mistake, but I'm not one to lie them away. While I'm thanking gamefanatic. Let me just go ahead and extend it to all who make this forum happen in creating and keeping record for us to read. Really makes up keep promising!

In case most will notice, that is Red RTV dried in the pics while I was air leak chasing. I have since cleaned this as the gaskets do reuse. Again, without this forum and the kick ars participants. I wouldn't have known this.

Up next is the power steering pump (leaking into the valley of the engine and down to the exhaust), and finally get this steering and suspension in. Have 7 days next month to fix!

 

[gamefanatic]

Glad you were able to fix all those issues! Keeping the Gen3 in gear is why we are here!

While checking on the power steering pump, you may want to review the seal around the timing cover and bottom oil pan. They both start to leak as well. Check around your oil filter/cooler for signs of oil leaks. All are easily remedied with a good cleaning gasket maker/sealant.

 

[stephen newberg]

Great news.

pax, smn

 

[MCIntimidator]

Glad you were able to fix all those issues! Keeping the Gen3 in gear is why we are here!

While checking on the power steering pump, you may want to review the seal around the timing cover and bottom oil pan. They both start to leak as well. Check around your oil filter/cooler for signs of oil leaks. All are easily remedied with a good cleaning gasket maker/sealant.

My oil filter cooler is off my list to do thankfully. Cleaned up the old metal gasket and put it back in with a tiny bead of sealer. Some of that info gathered from here too . Hasn't leaked since. Oil pan complaints were posted on the forum 2 or 3 times by me. I have since discovered that the power steering pump has caused a problem with me thinking the pan was leaking. I have redone that gasket 3 times until I figured out it was the pump , whoops!

Speaking of which. Is the line coming into the top of the pump from the rack not available any longer? Maybe you or someone else knows? I saw something Gen 3 Fan shared with me about making a custom one to replace it. Mine is starting to leak very minor at the threaded pressure fitting line inlet to pump as well, but with the pump that needed to be done yesterday paired with that makes me want to knock them both out.

Timing cover is a great idea as I am already partly there with the pump removed. Would have to do my valve covers again potentially. They were just done last year. Never reused newer valve cover gaskets. Pretty durable and still like new. This should be possible? Oh the agony...

 

[MCIntimidator]

Great news.

pax, smn

It really is. These Gen 3's were put out to pasture when the problem with the beef came from the manufacturer! Couldn't be happier to have one running against the odds of it. Just like your excitement!

 

[SHOZ123]

I eliminated the goofy Ford connection on the high pressure output of the PS pump. Took it off, tapped the pump piece for 3/8" NPT hose barb ( I think) and used compression fitting on the old steel line that I cut the rubber hose off of. Then used steel reinforced hydraulic hose and some good hose clamps.

Worked like a charm.

 

[MCIntimidator]

I eliminated the goofy Ford connection on the high pressure output of the PS pump. Took it off, tapped the pump piece for 3/8" NPT hose barb ( I think) and used compression fitting on the old steel line that I cut the rubber hose off of. Then used steel reinforced hydraulic hose and some good hose clamps.

Worked like a charm.

If I may pick your brain? Do you by chance have any photos of your work? Not questioning it as I have seen some older posts of it being handy . When you say you tapped the pump piece. That's the round pre threaded ****** in the photos I'm attaching? I found the tap and 3/8" NPT hose barb. Few options on the barb fittings i.e. https://www.amazon.com/Vis-Fitting-...t=&hvlocphy=9012162&hvtargid=pla-738657464306

And,

https://www.webstaurantstore.com/cl...6cZ-lKLSCCxDJIAR6-ycHU7HDXdNTVK4aAvG2EALw_wcB

If that's your measurement I'll just use it, or take the pump with me to go the next size up and confirm. As far as the rubber hose that is the one in the pics near the surge tank? If I may, where did you make your cuts, and do you remember the compression fittings you used on the old steel line? Similar to these?

https://www.webstaurantstore.com/ga...OwATyKLB6fRGBgT8z18hX-2bbnIXRVRsaAtUjEALw_wcB

Final question. At the pump where we have installed the 3/8" barb. Did you use a compression fitting there, or just a hose clamp with open steel reinforced hose?

https://hoseinahurry.com/products/1...ixk_esTghWWKr4PXq0JCHPM0BTBDueHAaAoeWEALw_wcB

I genuinely appreciate your insight as your hard work will become mine if I am understanding what sounds right!

 

[SHOZ123]

Here is the connection I made at the rack end. Prom steel line to hose, a compression fitting (it was a common size for 3/8" OD pipe I think. better measure the OD) to female NPT then a NPT to hose barb.



I used 3/8" steel reinforced hydraulic line and good hose clamps. The other end at the pump I tapped the large banjo fitting for a NPT hose barb.



It never leaked a drop nor suffered any steering issues. The steel reinforced hose will be ruined if you try and take it off so buy extra if you think you need to. Common at farm hardware stores.

 

[gamefanatic]

If its only leaking at the threads, which is common if only removed and reinstalled, you just need a new washer. They are Teflon, which makes them just a bit more tricky to apply. I usually soak them for a few minutes in Mercon-V to soften them up, then use a socket that is just as large as the threads to stretch the washer on. If you push the washer over the threads directly it can get damaged and leak.

Edelmann 70005 POWER STEERING... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OQOPHE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Otherwise SHOZ123's solution should work good.

 

[MCIntimidator]

Here is the connection I made at the rack end. Prom steel line to hose, a compression fitting (it was a common size for 3/8" OD pipe I think. better measure the OD) to female NPT then a NPT to hose barb.



I used 3/8" steel reinforced hydraulic line and good hose clamps. The other end at the pump I tapped the large banjo fitting for a NPT hose barb.



It never leaked a drop nor suffered any steering issues. The steel reinforced hose will be ruined if you try and take it off so buy extra if you think you need to. Common at farm hardware stores.

Surprised I didn't receive an email notification for this. The answer is perfect with gamefanatics suggestion! New pump is going in and a good time to check the seal of the line. This though just sparked my interest to an intense urge Sir. I'm on this and confident! Bless you my friend. Genuinely meant!

Coming months, another Donation.

 

[MCIntimidator]

If its only leaking at the threads, which is common if only removed and reinstalled, you just need a new washer. They are Teflon, which makes them just a bit more tricky to apply. I usually soak them for a few minutes in Mercon-V to soften them up, then use a socket that is just as large as the threads to stretch the washer on. If you push the washer over the threads directly it can get damaged and leak.

Edelmann 70005 POWER STEERING... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OQOPHE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Otherwise SHOZ123's solution should work good.

The build up looks like it's at the threads and where the line goes in the threaded male end. It's everywhere with the pump leak honestly. Getting that in the coming week finally. I just hit 89k and am pretty sure this is the factory Furd. Can't say it hasn't been opened as I haven't looked for scorn marks on the bolt. Will soon know and am stoked as well about your suggestion on the post! I owe my gratitude to you and shoz123 honestly. You two have soon dried up my leak!