Uneven window....

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SHOstuff

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How do you correct the window when letting it up? Everytime I let down my window on the driver side. Also, my passenger window and rear driver window doesn't come down. Is there som kind of relation on why those two don't work and the opposites does?
 

SHOstuff

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So how do I rectify the the uneven window when rolling it up? And with the no-working windows, how do I see if it's the motor or not?
 

HotRodKid

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uneven window meaning that the window isnt secure in its track ? that means you have damage to the window regulator assembly

and if you hi the window switch and the lights dim a bit (car not running) then the motor is shot. if the lights dont dim, the problem is the switch or the wiring
 

SHOstuff

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its not severe but its annoying when i roll it up that i hve to aid it some just so that i won't here wind.

And on the two windows, it doesn't dim when trying to roll it down; it just don't move when it has before. so where do i start?
 

93rev2sev

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The track is the reason it's hard to roll up completely. The glass gets cocked to the side because of slop in the regulater assembly and basically jams itself sideways in the track. Lifting the glass on one side (usually the rear) will help the glass stay on track and allow the motor to roll it up all the way.

Common problem....a real ***** to repair.

The other windows are probably the switch on the drivers door. If you replace that switch and the problem remains, reaplace the switches on the doors in question. If it's still a problem, then you probably have a bad motor(s) or a short somewhere.

Another copmmon problem, much easier to fix.
 

frosho

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For the non-functional windows, you can check whether or not it's the motors pretty easily with a volt meter. Remove door panel, disconnect power wires to the motor, and check for voltage at the connector while holding the window button down (with key turned to on or back to acc). If you're getting around 12v, you need to either rebuild the motors, or get new ones. If you're not, then it's time to look upstream at the wiring or switches.
 

1995mtxsho

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The rubbed coated window tracks also like to corrode and swell under the rubber coating.
This pinches the glass and is the reason I do not use my rear windows.
If the rubber coating is bubbling and blistering on the outside, this could also be a culprit.
 

SHOstuff

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The track is the reason it's hard to roll up completely. The glass gets cocked to the side because of slop in the regulater assembly and basically jams itself sideways in the track. Lifting the glass on one side (usually the rear) will help the glass stay on track and allow the motor to roll it up all the way.

Common problem....a real ***** to repair.

The other windows are probably the switch on the drivers door. If you replace that switch and the problem remains, reaplace the switches on the doors in question. If it's still a problem, then you probably have a bad motor(s) or a short somewhere.

Another copmmon problem, much easier to fix.

So is it just a matter of tightening up the tracks?

For the non-functional windows, you can check whether or not it's the motors pretty easily with a volt meter. Remove door panel, disconnect power wires to the motor, and check for voltage at the connector while holding the window button down (with key turned to on or back to acc). If you're getting around 12v, you need to either rebuild the motors, or get new ones. If you're not, then it's time to look upstream at the wiring or switches.

ok


Nice write up! Thank you! And you did this becaquse your window didn't move or it moved slowly?
 

mrecoolgar

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To correct the cocked window you need to replace the worn bushings.
There are two white nylon bushings for the front doors and three for the rear doors.
Each one is a two piece retained by a factory rivet.
The rivets need to be drilled out, then you can replace with 1/4-20 or M6-1.00 hardware.
I have kits available, please PM me if interested.
2009-11-01003.jpg
 

hawkeye18

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Nice write up! Thank you! And you did this becaquse your window didn't move or it moved slowly?

Yep, the driver's side window wouldn't even try to budge, and the passenger side window was reeeeeeeeeally slow. They're both faster than the front windows now. Keep in mind, the writeup is for the driver's side, but the pictures are of the passenger side. I didn't decide I needed to add pictures for the write-up until after I finished the write-up and the driver's side.
 

kevinspann

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To correct the cocked window you need to replace the worn bushings.
There are two white nylon bushings for the front doors and three for the rear doors.
Each one is a two piece retained by a factory rivet.
The rivets need to be drilled out, then you can replace with 1/4-20 or M6-1.00 hardware.
I have kits available, please PM me if interested.
2009-11-01003.jpg

Kevin, where do you get these bushings at?

At nearly 300k miles, my window assemblies are due for a rebuild.
 

turbo79

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I've fixed three "dead" windows in two Gen II Tauri now, and each time it was the motor. You could get a test light, pull out the switch assembly, make sure that the (no window action) override on the drivers door is on, and then hook the test light to the switch w/ key on and see if you get a signal. I did this each time, got a signal and so replaced the motors. The link in this thread about servicing a motor instead of replacing it is very useful if you have the inclination.
 

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