Underboost

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Raging Bull

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BD460B4C ACBD 46FC B556 5F82CF83884A My car has had an underboost code on it I cleared it goes away ( obviously ) then comes back. This is my first SHO car feels powerful to me I happy as a pig in the S#%T. Took it to the dealer was gonna have diagnostics done to see what the issue was lead guy takes a ride with me an says I would feel a great difference in power with a underboost problem , got no engine light on either. He said it could have been an old code some get stored and stay there. So I take his word and drive on. Now I am happily tuned by AJPTURBO load the tune in and I’m like wow this is great. So I do a little data logging that Brad wanted me to do AAND ! He says I have a big underboost problem not seeing any of the power he is commanding. So I start searching for hoses off things of the norm we should look for. Hoses ripped torn ect... found one thing are these big enough to cause my underboost issues. It’s the charge pipe that runs along top of engine plastic - rubber -plastic and right and the next rubber section I found these. That hose must expand and they gotta open up a lil No ? Lmk
 

SHOdded

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Crack pipe ... er, cracked pipes and clamps are common on the SHO, why folks choose to replace with hard pipes instead. Those clamps suck.
 

Raging Bull

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It’s those two little tears between the plastic and the letters aem that I found are those big enough to lose power ?
 

SHOdded

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If they are actual tears through and through, yes. These pipes flex under boost, so what seems trivial at rest can become a gaping hole under boost. I would think you would be able to hear the escaping pressure but probably not with the hood closed or the cover on. Tape it up with duct tape and see what happens.
 

Raging Bull

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Hood closed an it’s right under the air box as well. I will try the tape.
 

Raging Bull

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Update - car went to the dealer today for a smoke test and they found a clamp that wasn’t positioned right and it was leaking out of the hose. The Guy said it wasn’t a huge leak but it was leaking. So I feel it is better hopefully not all in my head. But it use to kinda bog down a lil between 2-3 gear at like 1500-2200 rpm. It hasn’t done it yet today and feels smooth. I will see more tomorrow. Gotta data log again for brad and see what we got. Not much more time before it gets parked for the season.
 

FiveLeeter918

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make sure you reset KAM so that it forces the car to relearn fuel trims.
 

Raging Bull

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OK ! BACK TO UNDERBOOST AGAIN. I THOUGHT WE WERE GOOD ! Car ran good after the clamp was tight, tune is super powerful then I could feel the little lag again and just wasn’t as peppy and sharp. And today filled up with Mobil 93 not at my usual station and went to do some data log put in S manual went 3 to set manual mode and floored it and MAN we bogged alway on the on ramp. I wanted the service shop to check all hoses , all clamps , wast gates, everything.all that happen was a smoke test ( is that good enough ) ? To find all leaks ? Willing to pay for hours and hours of diag. No one takes the time anymore. Not sure where to go and do now. Wanted problem solved before I put it up for the winter. All the want to do is plug in computer. They wonder why I get the code but no check engine light ever. Any ideas would be appreciated !!!
 

Johnbigdog

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Wellness a C.E.L. usually only illuminates to indicate an emission fault. The wrench light for a transmission, AWD, throttle body, or possibly a Body Control Module fault.

Underboost doesnt afect any of those so you get a dtc but no CEL. Or that is what I think/understand.


So our cars (at least a 2016) have a waste gate that is normally closed and opened by boost pressure. There is a wastegate control solenoid on the top of the intake to the bottom right of the M.A.P. sensor. This solenoid controls boost pressure to the waste gate actuators to open the waste gates. This in turn controls the ability of the turbos to creat bost.

If that solenoid is disconected and everthing is working the car will over boost because the waste gates are always closed.

The recirculation valves (blow off) prevent compressor stalling when the throttle body closes. (I think) The valves normally prevent boost from recirculating. Power is provided to disturb a bladder and air is recirculated from the cold side cac tubes to the intake side of the turbos.

So, under boost. You could have a problem where a wastegat is not working properly and is sticking open, or one of the c clips came off allowing the wastegate valve in the turbo to do as it pleases.

You could have a mechanical fault with the wastegate solenoid where it is always allowing boost to reach the wastegate actuators.

It is posible that one of your turbos has failed or is failing and unable to produce boost. Our cars can run on one turbo.

Another posible cause is that one of the recirculation valves are not sealing/damage and leaking boost. If you smoke test the intake your not going to find this leak if you plug up the air filter as the valve leaks into the intake from a pressure pipe.

You could have a charge air cooler pipe loose/blown off, but you should hear the air leak.

I think that about covers it?
 

SHOdded

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What code are they getting exactly? P0299 or similar? On the 2.0's it is fairly common for the wastegate actuator to have failed when that code pops. So that would be worth looking into.
 

Raging Bull

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Po299 is the code. Dealership was supposed to check everything for me , told the check book was open for all time needed to diagnose the issue. One tech said everything checked out to specs ( mind you never checked for cracked hoses, wastegate sticking , c clip fell off leaky turbo, nothing like that. So I complained and then the shop Forman did some data logging with me and said it was reading a few psi under what it should but wasn’t a concern. He did do a smoke test and found a clamp letting some air out. Car did feel better after that. 2 days after it is now kinda flat again and code is still there. I have a friend mechanic who is gonna take the time and we are gonna go over everything we can. Code has been on the car since I bought it. I can’t tell about the power it’s my first SHO. Then when Brad from AJPTURBO tuned it and said I was way underboost I gotta believe something is wrong.
 

SHOdded

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Didn't used to happen on the 3.5, but starting to see one now & then that has to have the turbo replaced to resolve.
 

Raging Bull

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Well we found it in all of 20 min. A missing C clip on the front turbo. Moth&:F&$?! This has been like this since I bought the car. The dealer that sold to me didn’t see or care to fix this 2 other dealers in my area didn’t take the time to look and fix this, and a man who is a mechanic at a local shop, had me stop by his house on a Sunday and found the issue in his drive way. We did not put a factory clip on got one from the auto store. I feel I need to go and spread **** to this last dealership that I asked to check everything and apparently were not able. Why don’t some people do their jobs the right way anymore ? Oh yeh the car really pulls nice now.
 

Johnbigdog

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Only reason I know about the c clips popping off is this is what happened to my rear turbo (rh side).
 

EcoBoostSHO

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So I have this exact same problem at the moment. The wastegate actuator isn't connected to anything on the front turbo. I have a picture of it but can't really get to it from above. I can feel it with my hands but that doesn't do me much good. Anyone know the best way to get to the clip? Hopefully I don't have to pull the turbo off. 80d11cf899f2b778c82e5b19aef301061d0ae26d74341726fd6457abe0dd01a6

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Raging Bull

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We got mine hooked up from underneath. U will have to take the covers off , one in the front you can get your hands in there. However I did not do myself so can’t really explain what it looks like under there but was done in minutes so u should be good to go. How long has it been disconnected do you know ?
 

EcoBoostSHO

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We got mine hooked up from underneath. U will have to take the covers off , one in the front you can get your hands in there. However I did not do myself so can’t really explain what it looks like under there but was done in minutes so u should be good to go. How long has it been disconnected do you know ?
Good to know!

It's been around three weeks. The loss of power was noticeable and I scan the car a lot. I've been troubleshooting it since it happened a little at a time.

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