Two EEC test questions.

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SHOblime

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1) I can hook up a DVOM to the STO (self test output) and the positive battery terminal? What exactly would I be reading here?

2) If I had a bad Coolant Temp Sensor, there would be an error code stored, correct? If the guage sender was bad, there would be no code? AllData said to use resistors (10ohm & 73ohm or something) to test the sender, a user here said to ground it to the block, so I am going to do that.
 

GR8SHO

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SHOblime said:
1) I can hook up a DVOM to the STO (self test output) and the positive battery terminal? What exactly would I be reading here?

2) If I had a bad Coolant Temp Sensor, there would be an error code stored, correct? If the guage sender was bad, there would be no code? AllData said to use resistors (10ohm & 73ohm or something) to test the sender, a user here said to ground it to the block, so I am going to do that.

Use the write-up on Shotimes with the jumper method and count the blinks in the cabin. Very easy to do.

The ECT may or may not throw a code. The part is cheap to replace. If you suspect it's bad, just buy a new one.
 

Blank-Disk

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forget the SHOTimes write up on the test, it's completely bogus, as it's for a mustang. i went out of my mind trying ot get their methode to work. I finnaly gave up and found the tutorial on www.shophoenixproject.com, and it worked like a charm.
 

projectSHO89

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All EEC-IV self-test procedures are basicaly the same regardless of whether it's a Taurus, Mustang, Excort, F-150, etc (except Diesels).

Steve
 

Blank-Disk

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projectSHO89 said:
All EEC-IV self-test procedures are basicaly the same regardless of whether it's a Taurus, Mustang, Excort, F-150, etc (except Diesels).

Steve

I disagree. If you compare the different procedures between teh cars, some have different hardware (ie the SHO has an extra seperate connector). But at the same time, from 96 on, all Fords have the same computer hook up under the dash (at least that I've seen).
 

Bizzy

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Blank-Disk said:
I disagree. If you compare the different procedures between teh cars, some have different hardware (ie the SHO has an extra seperate connector). But at the same time, from 96 on, all Fords have the same computer hook up under the dash (at least that I've seen).

I'm sorry, but you're incorrect. :) Even though they put the following disclaimer up, the information is still accurate.
Adapted for the Taurus SHO from "EEC-IV Self Test Procedure Article" by Scott Griffith. Mr. Griffith's article deals with the Mustang, so this adaptation may be somewhat incorrect and incomplete for the SHO application.

From SHOTimes.com

To run the tests, you must locate the EEC-IV test connectors. In the '89-'95 Taurus SHO, these are in the engine compartment, right between the intake manifold and the firewall, next to the passenger-side strut tower. There are two connectors of interest: one is a 6-pin connector, and the other is a single pin connector. They may be stuck into a single grey plastic hood embossed with "EEC Test". The connectors use 1/4" quick disconnect-style terminals, so you'll probably want to make yourself a jumper about 8" long with a 1/4" male QD terminal on each end, if you mean to do this often. Otherwise, any random chunk of wire will do.

The graphic shows the pinout for the EEC-IV connector, looking at it from the working side (looking into the female terminals). Only the three pins denoted may actually have terminals in them- the other positions may be empty.

The single terminal hanging loose is the Self Test Input pin (STI). To run the test, you just watch your Check Engine light. Alternatively, you can hook up an analog voltmeter between the positive terminal of the battery, and the Self Test Out (STO) pin; you'll count its needle sweeps to read the codes. The Fuel Pump (FP) test pin, when grounded, runs the fuel pump continuously- but that's just FYI. You won't deal with that pin for these tests.

eec.gif


I have run the tests using the directions printed directly off SHOTimes countless times with zero error. I'm not sure how you conclude that the test procedures listed there are bogus. To my knowledge they've worked for thousands of SHO owners just fine. It should also be noted that the test listed above is specifically for the '89-'95 Taurus SHO.
 

stevetatro

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SHOblime said:
2) If I had a bad Coolant Temp Sensor, there would be an error code stored, correct? If the guage sender was bad, there would be no code? AllData said to use resistors (10ohm & 73ohm or something) to test the sender, a user here said to ground it to the block, so I am going to do that.


A bad ECT will not necessarily store a code. Mine didn't.

If you haven't done it yet, you should replace the ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor. It's $12.99 from AutoZone, and is a quality brass Wells part.

Do NOT get a plastic one available from NAPA (among other retailers). POS.

Good luck.
 

rangerj

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Steve and Bizzy have it right. Ford used the EEC IV, also referred to as OBD I, on most of it gas engined vehicles that were fuel injected beginning in 1988 through some time in 1995.

Beginning in 1995 the vehicle manufacturers started using OBD II (On Board Diagnostics) so you can find some late production 1995s with OBD II. All 1996s will have the under the dash(usually left of the steering column) hook up for an OBD II connection. Beginning in 2006 the new system, called C.A.N.(Controller Area Network), will be in all vehicles in the U.S. and Canada.

The "jumper wire and paper clip" hook-up used to trigger the self test is a "jury rigged" method for those who do not have a "scanner" or "Break out Box". If connected properly it works as described by SHO Times, and other sites.

For those who are interested in electronic diagnostics get the following book, "How to Understand, Service, and Modify Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control" by Charles O. Probst, SAE. It is about $22 U.S. from Amazon.com. Steve was the first to introduce us to this book on this forum, and it is an outstanding referrence source. Thank you again Steve.

And Steve, keep correcting my mistakes. I'm learning! :thumb: Has anybody seen SDPatt lately?
I tell my wife, "when I stop looking at pretty women, or stop making mistakes, it is time to shovel dirt over me"! Food for thought.
rangerj
 

93SHO'nOFF

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If you want to test the ECT sensor use a DVOM to measure resistance and anything that measures coolant temp.Take readings through the sensor pins.

ECT SENSOR VALUES
-------------------------------
Temp. *F ---------------- RESISTANCE (K ohm)
_______________ ________________
248 *F ---------------------- 1.18 K
230 *F ---------------------- 1.55 K
212 *F-----------------------2.07 K
194 *F-----------------------2.80 K
176 *F---------------------- 3.84 K
158 *F---------------------- 5.37 K
140 *F----------------------- 7.70 K
122 *F-----------------------10.97 K
104 *F-----------------------16.15 K
86 *F----------------------- 24.27 K
68*F----------------------- 37.30 K
50 *F----------------------- 58.75 K


Later, :thumb:
Mike.............
 

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