Tweecer.

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rcsavage

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At what point do i need a tweecer? im about to do a 3.2 swap but i dont know if that requires different tuning. and in the future if i need a Tweecer, how hard is it to use. im good with the computer and understand alot about cars, but im worried about some thing i might not know.

for those off you who have a tweecer, what do you find yourself tuning the most? thanks.
 

1993MTXSHO

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if you're just doing a 3.2 swap all you need is a lpm to tell the computer its got 24lb injectors and even that you don't really need because the car will adjsut. Maybe listing what mods the 3.2L will have would help people explain better to you;)
 

rcsavage

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i wasnt really expecting the 3.2 to need a tweecer, just thought i should mention it. im just genrally interested in what i will have to do if i got one to build my own tune. as of now the car doesnt have anything serious enough to need a tweecer but i wanted cams, just the thought of tuning kinda scared me away as well as price :)
 

SASHO91

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When do you need Tweecer, you ask?

When the motor has a hair dryer attached. You can have every bolt on, and run on the stock tune. Thats not to say that it wont help with the bolt on's.

For a bolt on sho(or stock-ish for that matter)- Tweecer helps squeeze out those last ponies, and/or helps with drivability.
For a F/I sho- It's just a nessecity, period.
 

rcsavage

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would the car run reliably with cam without a tweecer? thanks for all your help on this matter. i thought cams=tweecer.
 

BlackonBlack89

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rcsavage said:
would the car run reliably with cam without a tweecer? thanks for all your help on this matter. i thought cams=tweecer.

on stage 2 or +40 you would need some sort of tuning because you wouldn't idle.
 

40BelowSummer

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The stock EEC is calibrated for stock injectors and the stock mass airflow sensor transfer curve. When you change either of these (injectors/MAF) you need a new calibration so the computer can do its fuel calculations and air metering properly. Not to mention the added benefits of A/F ratio/idle/IMRC/rev limiter/etc. adjustments.

The stock MAF can only meter so much air and the stock fuel injectors can only flow so much fuel. The stock MAF will be able to meter the air most bolt-ons bring in, same goes with the fuel injectors. Its when you max either of these out (or before) is when you need a bigger MAF or injectors which requires tuning. So that would (should) include most boosted SHOs. Most modified N/A SHOs with a stock MAf and injectors will be fine without tuning; however, any SHO can benefit from a TwEECer.
 
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rcsavage

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alright thank you. i already have a 80mm MAF but stock injectors. i also have an LPM for my car so theres no real reason to get a tweecer unless i boost my car or run an aggresive cam. thanks alot guys for all the info.
 

yamahaSHO

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Boost... Boost is about the only time you really NEED the TwEECer. A 3.2L swap doesn't cause problems with the tune.

1993MTXSHO said:
if you're just doing a 3.2 swap all you need is a lpm to tell the computer its got 24lb injectors and even that you don't really need because the car will adjsut. Maybe listing what mods the 3.2L will have would help people explain better to you;)

Negative....
 

Axianator

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rcsavage said:
At what point do i need a tweecer? im about to do a 3.2 swap but i dont know if that requires different tuning. and in the future if i need a Tweecer, how hard is it to use. im good with the computer and understand alot about cars, but im worried about some thing i might not know.
In adding to Jason's post, the only time you really need a TwEECer is when you're replacing factory components - such as the MAF, fuel injectors, camshafts and even certain exhaust components - that play a role in vital engine calculatations like engine air/fuel mixture, spark timing, etc.

If you're "good" with computers and understand the mechanics of the internal combustion engine, then you shouldn't be afraid to play around with a TwEECer. In actuality, the chances of damaging your engine with a TwEECer are relatively small, provided you make gradual, incremental changes to your base tune.

rcsavage said:
for those off you who have a tweecer, what do you find yourself tuning the most? thanks.
Everything. ;)
 

LeddZepp8687

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Axianator said:
In adding to Jason's post, the only time you really need a TwEECer is when you're replacing factory components - such as the MAF, fuel injectors, camshafts and even certain exhaust components - that play a role in vital engine calculatations like engine air/fuel mixture, spark timing, etc.

If you're "good" with computers and understand the mechanics of the internal combustion engine, then you shouldn't be afraid to play around with a TwEECer. In actuality, the chances of damaging your engine with a TwEECer are relatively small, provided you make gradual, incremental changes to your base tune.

Everything. ;)


Its on my list of things to buy. After my tranny which Ill have in a month or so. Then the FPS Y-pipe, Then then TwEECer and a MAF, Rims and tires.

Do you think I could save my tranny a little bit if I buy the TwEECer now and make my tranny shift harder?

Also, does TwEECer have the capability to shorten 1st gear? I hate how under almost any significant throttle the car winds to almost 4 grand.
 

Axianator

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LeddZepp8687 said:
Do you think I could save my tranny a little bit if I buy the TwEECer now and make my tranny shift harder?
Depending on the condition of your tranny and the source of your shifting problems, it's entirely possible to help extend the life of the friction materials and reduce internal fluid temperatures by increasing line pressure through a TwEECer.

LeddZepp8687 said:
Also, does TwEECer have the capability to shorten 1st gear? I hate how under almost any significant throttle the car winds to almost 4 grand.
Yep. :)
 

LeddZepp8687

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Axianator said:
Depending on the condition of your tranny and the source of your shifting problems, it's entirely possible to help extend the life of the friction materials and reduce internal fluid temperatures by increasing line pressure through a TwEECer.

Yep. :)

Shifting conditions.

Upshifts are basically fine with no slipping at WOT. Fresh tranny fluid and filter.

Downs, First gear is long and slow to shift while cruising. Lift off the throttle before a turn, 3/4 of the way thru the turn when I go to resume throttle it basically wants to downshift but instead it basically slips then grabs when the steering wheel is almost straight. It is only a momentary slip which usually only lasts but a second or two at the worst.

Whadday think? Would it help the cornering issue?
 

1993MTXSHO

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wont a car run with stage 2 cams using only an lpm? I was under the impression that it would run just not as well if you bumped up the idol a little, but you wouldn't have any real problems because the car would adjust itself.
 

yamahaSHO

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You can run ANY modification with just an LPM... The question is whether or not the LPM has the right tune for that SPECIFIC car. The car can only adjust within limits. Stage 2 cams can run without any tuning, however, more power would be gained with a tuning device.
 

TT SHO PROJECT

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yamahaSHO said:
Boost... Boost is about the only time you really NEED the TwEECer. A 3.2L swap doesn't cause problems with the tune.



Negative....
id have to dissagree to a point.... i have boost... and no tweecer... stock everything... but yeah if u want to make real power (lets say 320+whp) then of course u will need bigger injectors and a new maf then yeah u will need to do some tuneing... but for a basic turbo sho like mine u dont need any tuneing what so ever.. just my 2 cents

-Turbo Bob.
 

Jonny Cash

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rcsavage said:
At what point do i need a tweecer?

Never.

Although its a good thing to have to monitor knock,etc. IMO its pointless unless its the RT.
 
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