Turbo parts list. Help me pick best parts.

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adidas_kn

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Okay so the Turbo is picked out and payed for(Turbonetics GT-K 650). Now I have to get the rest of the parts together. I have the money for the best of the best but of course a good deal is always welcome. These are what I have come across with research and the help of some people on this board. Remember 550+ hp is the range.

Wastegate: Tial 44mm with .9-1.4 bar spring.
Bypass valve(BOV): Greddy Type R BOV With Stiff Spring (375+ hp) Turbonetics Godzilla BOV (both can be recirculatory valves with included adapter necks)
Regulator: SHOnut High flow dual rail kit with braided feed line and gauge.
Fuel pump: High flow 255Lph in-tank
Injectors:65 Deitchtech tuning
MAF: SCT Big Air 95mm 2400-2800, 90mm Lightning
Intercooler: 18x6x3.5 core aluminum tanked singled sided intercooler
Tuning: Tweecer R/T
Oil Catch Can: Steeda type Oil Separator catch can
Wide Band O2: : PLX SM-AFR model
There's more I'm forgetting feel free to add onto the list or make changes and include price and place to order or a link. I need to get all the stuff together so I can get the intercooler pipes and 3" exhaust together.

Thanx in advance guys and girls. Starting to get excited about this.
 
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adidas_kn

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kzoosho said:
will it be easier with a fmic with both inlet and outlet on the same side?


Yeah That is the way toolman has his setup. The turbo is on the right and the TB is on the right soo it would equal less piping and I don't like the old way of stretching the charge pipe across the valve cover and hook back around to the TB.

I was thinking about adding a W/B O2 setup. I'll edit my initial post.
 

MerkXRTurbo

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Your intercooler idea has some good and bad to it. The good is that the air charge makes two passes through the intercooler. This will absolutely REQUIRE two seperate end tanks in the end of the intercooler that has the piping, because if they share an end tank they will bypass the core and flow from the hot charge pipe straight into what should be the cool charge pipe. The bad part is that you're going to see a lot of turbulance in the end tank in which the air changes directions because it's not really going to know if it wants to go through the tubes that it came through or others, and is going to start swirling rapidly in there. That will result in massive pressure drop. One thing you can do is to run your wastegate off of the intake manifold. The turbocharger WILL compensate for the pressure drop, however it will be working harder, thus heating the air even more. There are two solutions for this problem. One is having two seperate end tanks in the opposite end of the intercooler and connecting the two by a 180* mandrel bend, or by actually using two intercoolers in parallel and directing the charge back through the other one with a 180* mandrel bend. The two intercooler idea is much easier to do, as you would not have to have custom end tanks made (I highly doubt you can find one with two end tanks on either end and an inlet and outlet on either end), however either of these will be MUCH more efficient, that way you're pushing the air in a constant direction, not asking it to find its own way through the end tank. Both of these are really the same idea, just in the instance with 2 end tanks on either end you basically have two intercoolers fused into one. I have created an MS paint drawing of your origionally proposed setup on top, and both of my suggested setups below that:

intercooler.jpg


But then again, if you decide to go your origional route then it's still 100x better than no intercooler at all. :)
 

adidas_kn

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au-ic0010-25-3.jpg


au-ic0010-25-1.jpg


Core Size: 18"X11"X3"
Overall Size: 25"x11"x3"
2.5" Inlet & Outlet One Side
3" Core

$200. Not the best but it will work.
 

kzoosho

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adidas_kn said:
Yeah That is the way toolman has his setup. The turbo is on the right and the TB is on the right soo it would equal less piping and I don't like the old way of stretching the charge pipe across the valve cover and hook back around to the TB.

I was thinking about adding a W/B O2 setup. I'll edit my initial post.
I didnt know that. I always though that a set up that way wouldnt cool as much since you cant be sure the air is flowing through there.
 

SHOMurph

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adidas_kn said:
Sorry Murph Belts are for my pants not my Forced induction. I like free horsepower.:naughty:

You could probably use a couple of belts to help secure your door after it gets blown off.

I'll wait for ya to catch up. :evilgrin:
 

HotRodKid

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adidas_kn said:
Intercooler: Propperly sized Bar and Plate unit with both outlets on the same side.

for the intercooler, do like they do for the monster FMIC's in DSM's (talons ect)

single pass, side to side, with the outlet pipe running back across the top of the intercooler, effectivly giving you same side inlet / outlet

like this:

hks_rsx_intercooler_kit.jpg


also, tweecer R/T > buying a preprogramed chip
 

MerkXRTurbo

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That's another good way to do it. There's one I hadn't thought of. Pretty much ANYTHING is better than using the origionally planned IC though.
 

thecrew2999

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WB02, there are a ton of them out there and i cant really say one would work better then the other. i dont know many people who have experience trying different models and such since the price tag on a WB02 is so high people usually stick with whatever they get.
i really would recommend against shonuts fpr tho since there are far less cheap ones out there and they all have the same function. **** you can get a gauge anywhere for one
 

adidas_kn

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HotRodKid said:
for the intercooler, do like they do for the monster FMIC's in DSM's (talons ect)

single pass, side to side, with the outlet pipe running back across the top of the intercooler, effectivly giving you same side inlet / outlet

like this:

hks_rsx_intercooler_kit.jpg


Wow thats a nice intercooler but seeing that it's made by HKS, I'm guessing that it costs north of $500 probably closer to $1k. That is the style that I wanted but they seem to be hard to find by anybody other than top brands charging a fortune.
 

strings1732

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something similar but most likely would not work:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Univ...2QQihZ020QQcategoryZ33742QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Even an intercooler with this design would work good. It'd be better than the ones described in the posts above with the inlet/outlet on the same tank, and more efficient than what Merk was describing but still not the best design ever...:
Ed 1

or this:
ic-z3015b.jpg




I was working on the car tonight and after I removed the a/c condensor(no a/c) I realized how easy it would be to throw a front mount on the car. Only issue I see is that most, if not all would be directly behind the center of the bumper and would not see much airflow. but this is easily fixable by drilling a hole or two behind the license plate and only installing the plate when you feel like it. there is more than enough room to just run a u-bend and run the pipe back under the intercooler once the condensor is removed. I am highly contemplating whether I should do a front mount intercooler or do a water injection kit. pressure drop is a large factor too... I'm so lost at what to do now...
 
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