...TRY to beat my sub system ;)

[kaoticSHO]

Hmmm, you used a stock alt and made 161 that's very interesting. Not saying it can't happen, I am just interested in how it was measured.

Those JBL amps must be really efficient or have been modded. Either that or you got your db reading from running in "Outlaw" class where the mic placement is anywhere you want to put it.

In my SPL setup in one of my cars, using a very custom made 290 amp alternator and appropriate gauge wiring and able to run up to 16 volts with twin modded Zapco C2k 9.0D's (2200 x 1 each, nominal)for my subs (JL W7's) I barely got above 161. Of course, I am not in "Outlaw" class and mic placement is up to the judge. Most are placed just over the console and a little forward.

<small>[ June 12, 2003, 07:08 PM: Message edited by: kaoticSHO ]</small>

 

[yamahaSHO]

I had my db rating done at Ultimate Electronics in Arizona about 4 years ago. Yes, the amp is very effecient. Most of the time it was too loud to where I had the gain on the amp all the way down. The Pioneer HU used had 4.8 volt input into the amp. Also the box was highly effecient as well, a lot of work went in to making it.

If I remember correctly the mic was near the shifter, yeah the further forward the better the reading, but it was not too forward. You really would have to hear it to believe it. In the school parking lot I beat out 4 MTX 10"s and on another occasion 3 Rockford DVC 12"s. I would totally demolish any other 2-12" setup. I used to listen to it too loud to where it would make my throat hurt not to mention the pressure on my ears. If you tried to talk you, could actually feel your own voice being pressured back into you throat. You would be talking but no sound would come out.

My subs played directly into the cabin as well, the seats stayed down. That really helps the SPL and SQ!!

I never entered in a "real" competition, I just paid my $10 to see what it could do.

After having the Vegas, I always pondered what I could do with some Strokers

 

[SHO92]

Sho Nutz:

and

Amps soom to be switch over to am Orion Hcca 250 on the subs and an orion Hcca 225 on the mids and highs.

Good enough ?

MMM... PPI Art Series... MMM... I always wanted to get 2 PPI 8" flat pistons in a sealed box in something like an integra or GTI. I'm really happy with my V12 Expert, before they became crap, and 2 10" Solobaric s10d's. I'm in the process of building my SQ system right now. You can see some pics of it so far on my website.

 

[kaoticSHO]

My sub box was a seventh order bandpass. It literally takes your breath away. The box was constructed inside my SHO's trunk and then ported through the back ledge. The impact was so intense and controlled that it would be able to blow the port covers off and keep them 2-3 inches off the ledge while playing.

SHO92, did you get your front stage figured out yet. I saw your posts on Carsound. I ended up going with the Dynaudio 3 way 340's. I substituted an Esotar tweeter and added another MW160 to have twin 7 inchers in the door.

 

[K-Dawg]

Old amps rule! Today, it's really hard to get the quality of amp that you used to be able to get. Everything has gone downhill it seems... Rockford, Lanzar, PPI, Crunch,...

Anybody know where to get older amps for decent prices (other than ebay)?

 

[BenBrausen]

2 x 12' 2000watt (3000watt peak) Tek 2200's
4000watt mono D-Class amp
1 Fraud Cap (Soon to be replaced with a 5 Farad Stiffening Capacitor)

Blew the rear window seal in my old car with those subs and a 1200watt amp. I was thinkin about puttin' in my old PPI's. When the sales guy lemme drop my knee into the sub, I was sold on them. Now they just collect dust.

For some cheap car audio crap, check out CMT Trading

 

[NiNeTy Fo SHO]

yamahaSHO:
I ran the JBL BP1200.1, it is rated at 1200 watts rms(constant power) x 1 @ 2ohms. If you do the math though, 12 volts x 114 amps(max current draw) it really pushes 1368 watts rms x 1 @ 2ohms. I bought it when it first came out in '99. It was rated the number 1 mono sub amp when I bought it. It is a class D design, that means it has nice clean sound yet high power capabilities while drawing less current and running cooler than it's class A,AB,or B counter part.

The amp is also stable down to 1 ohm... You can run up to 4 - 4ohms subs with out a problem.

FWIW, I have tried a few different high powered amps from other brands and this one sounded the best and hit the hardest. Another thing that really helps the SPL/SQ is the fact that I built that box to spec and it is tuned to 35 Hz.

Sounds like a great amp...with some gut wrenching bass. How long have you had it and have you ever had any problems with it? Also, I was curious on how much you spent on it. I have been looking online and it ranges from about 270 to 400 bucks from different websites. I dont know if one site is better than another...but I figure a JBL BP1200.1 should be just the same no matter where you buy it.

Really appreciate all the info...thanks.

 

[yamahaSHO]

NiNeTy Fo SHO:
Sounds like a great amp...with some gut wrenching bass. How long have you had it and have you ever had any problems with it? Also, I was curious on how much you spent on it. I have been looking online and it ranges from about 270 to 400 bucks from different websites. I dont know if one site is better than another...but I figure a JBL BP1200.1 should be just the same no matter where you buy it.

Really appreciate all the info...thanks.

When I bought the amp it had just came out and cost around $750. I did some searching around and found it for $450 from MJHsound.com. I would say that $270 is well worth it. If you look at the JBL website, the list price is still $549(couple months ago it used to be $749).

I used the amp for about 2 years before I wrecked the car it was in. I actually bought 2 of them, I was going to add on to the system and make it really, really powerful. I have since sold the amps now that I have the SHO and only plan for one 8" woofer in the stock location.

I sold one of the amps to a guy in S. Carolina(or N Carolina). He is very happy with it. The other amp I sold to a guy in the Navy stationed in Denver. He is powering two Audiobahn 12"s and he loves it as well.

I personally could not say enough about this amp. In fact, I am getting the smallest model of this amp to power my 8" DVC for my SHO. The small amp(BP 150.1) is rated at 150 watt rms.

Hope this helps, Good Luck thumb

<small>[ June 13, 2003, 08:30 AM: Message edited by: yamahaSHO ]</small>

 

[NiNeTy Fo SHO]

It helps a lot....thanks for all your input...too bad you sold both of yours already.. headbang ah well....just have to buy new!

 

[Dave Ladely]

I am kinda sad that sound has become a competitive ego game to so many in this country.
I like clean sound. I did try two Velodyne 18" servo controled subwoofers with a Heart Interface 2500 watt inverter just as a lark. They will go down to around 10 Hz with authority. Pretty amazing, but I would never play a stereo in my car that loud. I like realistic sound, not overblown sound, and I like my ears and want them to work as long as possible. I dont want to HAVE to have my stereo at 161 db to listen when I am 55!!
By the way, reducing impededance reduces damping factor which reduces control which reduces the accuracy of the bass.
Also, the newer Lanzars appear to lie about the watts. RMS is the only true measure.

 

[ShoGuy93]

i would say ebay or your local shops...

<small>[ June 15, 2003, 02:21 PM: Message edited by: ShoGuy93 ]</small>

 

[kaoticSHO]

Actually mine is 163 db. Wireless controlled from outside of the car when it blasting at that level.

I know the Velo's are very nice, heard them some years ago actually when looking at a replacement for B&W's. I don't believe they are offered anymore. If you have a line on them I would be interested.

I have used a lot of amplification during my stereo tenure (1976). From Nakamichi PA 300MkII, Carver M240 to Alpine 3545 to Brax X2000/2400 to Zapco C2k 9.0d to Audison Vrx series and now to JL. From that I have gleened a couple of very important truths.

"A watt is a watt is a watt"

"You get what you pay for"

Some manufacturers tend to "inflate" their amps ratings to sell to the naive masses, they even go so far as to put a "rating" on the amp. Those of us that know are not pleased with this tactic and just shake our head in disgust.

 

[Dave Ladely]

The 18" Velodyne is still available, in a home version so you would need a 2000 watt inverter to run it. I used a Heart Interface 2500 watt inverter. Two 18" servo controlled subwoofers with 2500 watt amps each were beyond the beyond.

 

[Dave Ladely]

The 18" Velodyne is still available, in a home version so you would need a 2000 watt inverter to run it. I used a Heart Interface 2500 watt inverter. Two 18" servo controlled subwoofers with 2500 watt amps each were beyond the beyond. I had them in my van for a short time. The boxes were large, but fit fine. I've seen some larger boxes with 15" subwoofers.

 

[NiNeTy Fo SHO]

Dave Ladely:
I am kinda sad that sound has become a competitive ego game to so many in this country.
Pretty amazing, but I would never play a stereo in my car that loud. I like realistic sound, not overblown sound, and I like my ears and want them to work as long as possible. I dont want to HAVE to have my stereo at 161 db to listen when I am 55!!
By the way, reducing impededance reduces damping factor which reduces control which reduces the accuracy of the bass.
Also, the newer Lanzars appear to lie about the watts. RMS is the only true measure.

Well, You may not be interested in car audio, which is fine. It has nothing to do with ego for me. What you say is mostly true, BUT I wont be running the amp at the lowest impedance it can take, SO I wont be getting as much power out, SO I probably wont have 161 db, But I will have a nice clean sound. Yes it reduces the accuracy of the bass...IF you bridge it down and crank up the gain...as I would not do this either. I am not claiming to be an audio expert...but sometimes its just fun to have a loud stereo....or a fast car.
As far as Lanzar goes...I hate to tell ya, but I knew that long ago...I got a decent (not top quality, but dont really care to have to have top notch of everything) amp..right around 70 watts rms X 2 to amplify my rear deck a bit more.

Sorry to get worked up...but some people think that since you have a system that can thump like no other...that you are going to drive around with it turned up full blast 24/7. Its just nice to have a great system...and once in a while put people who have the 1000 rampage amp (20 watt rms) in their place...just like using your SHO to to put that ricer (4-banger with NO power) in its place.

 

[redsho]

yamahaSHO:


Really appreciate all the info...thanks.

When I bought the amp it had just came out and cost around $750. I did some searching around and found it for $450 from MJHsound.com. I would say that $270 is well worth it. If you look at the JBL website, the list price is still $549(couple months ago it used to be $749).

I used the amp for about 2 years before I wrecked the car it was in. I actually bought 2 of them, I was going to add on to the system and make it really, really powerful. I have since sold the amps now that I have the SHO and only plan for one 8" woofer in the stock location.

I sold one of the amps to a guy in S. Carolina(or N Carolina). He is very happy with it. The other amp I sold to a guy in the Navy stationed in Denver. He is powering two Audiobahn 12"s and he loves it as well.

I personally could not say enough about this amp. In fact, I am getting the smallest model of this amp to power my 8" DVC for my SHO. The small amp(BP 150.1) is rated at 150 watt rms.

Hope this helps, Good Luck thumb [/QB][/QUOTE]


$450 is still pretty steep for the JBL 1200.1! It's a fairly good amp that does put out a little more than rated output. The amp can be had for roughly $250. This amp can only good as a pure powerplant... it doesn't have subsonic filters... and if I recall correctly, it also has very poor crossover w/ poor markings. There are also many other quality amps to consider in the price range.

I find it hard to believe that you hit 161db with this setup?! Not that it couldn't happen, but that mark is pretty hard to achieve especially with that particular setup...

Anyway.... seems like the best setup so far is RI-SHO's setup. My SQL setup will be complete pretty soon:

ALPINE CDA-9815
Lanzar OPTI 200.2
Lanzar OPTI 1000.1D (2 Strapped)
2.0 Farad Cap
1/0 AWG main power/ground
Crystal Mobilesound CSC60s 6 1/2"
2 - Elemental Designs 12A Subs
Slot Ported Enclosure tuned 29HZ

This should compare well with your Orion/JL combo... too bad you don't have it anymore doh
Also, the guy with the Cadence setup looks pretty nice... really nice amp though!
Just my $.02

 

[redsho]

kaoticSHO:
Hmmm, you used a stock alt and made 161 that's very interesting. Not saying it can't happen, I am just interested in how it was measured.

Those JBL amps must be really efficient or have been modded. Either that or you got your db reading from running in "Outlaw" class where the mic placement is anywhere you want to put it.

In my SPL setup in one of my cars, using a very custom made 290 amp alternator and appropriate gauge wiring and able to run up to 16 volts with twin modded Zapco C2k 9.0D's (2200 x 1 each, nominal)for my subs (JL W7's) I barely got above 161. Of course, I am not in "Outlaw" class and mic placement is up to the judge. Most are placed just over the console and a little forward.

I found that really interesting too.....
Your setup you mentioned there is about 3 times better, if not more, in terms of just about everything. Even with that nice of a setup, reaching that 160+db level can be difficult.
I can't even start to imagine how the JBL 1200/ Cerwin Vega (not stroker) combo can even get close to that mark.

<small>[ June 18, 2003, 03:48 PM: Message edited by: redsho ]</small>

 

[K-Dawg]

redsho:
My SQL setup will be complete pretty soon

ALPINE CDA-9815
Lanzar OPTI 200.2
Lanzar OPTI 1000.1D (2 Strapped)
2.0 Farad Cap
1/0 AWG main power/ground
Crystal Mobilesound CSC60s 6 1/2"
2 - Elemental Designs 12A Subs
Slot Ported Enclosure tuned 29HZ
[/QB]

That setup should sound pretty good. I've been considering many of those components myself. I'm curious how you like what you have if you have any of it installed (especially the components and subs). But this is what I think I will be going with very soon:

Alpine CDA-7995
CDT CL-61 (for $150!)
1 Adire Audio Shiva
Not sure on the amps, but I think I might be able to pick up some PPI Art series for pretty cheap at a local shop

 

[thebigjimsho]

New Lanzar is crap. boink

 

[olympic]

These will be ready for the convention:

Eclipse 8812 12" aluminum cone subs, 6 ohms/sub run in parallel. Nearly 3" of excursion and they weigh about 35 lbs each! The interior of the box is lit with red neon.

Amps: Alpine 3566 6 channel(now 11 years old, awesome amp!) and Alpine 1505 V12 Expert. 2F digital display cap. This is my old setup, the new one will move the amps and cap into the spare tire well for more trunk space. I'm also designing it so everything can be removed in about 5 minutes when I go to the track.

Panasonic CQ-DVR909u DVD player and 7" 16:9 ratio LCD. The screen is just held there with velcro because I only really use it for a show.

I don't have pics, but I also have Pioneer mids/tweets up front, Blaupunkt 6x9's out back and an 8 disc changer under the drivers seat. Wiring is 2 gauge welding cable front to back with 4 gauge wire between the cap and amps.