troubling noise!

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

shorook90

New Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2003
Messages
139
Reaction score
0
Location
Bakersfield California
My car makes a bluh bluh bluh under acceleration, that steadily gets faster until around 3,500 rpm's. It feels like it has a loss of power and when I try to stop on the gas it will bog down for a second and then finally slowly spool up, which bits in a race. Any suggestions? My guess would be a bad injector which is causing me to run on only 5 cylinders. I am going to get a cylinder balance test on monday. Just wanted to get info from the pros though.
 

revhardSHO

SHO Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2002
Messages
3,009
Reaction score
51
Location
Seattle, WA
yeah, if your wires and plugs are old they can cause some missing and hesitation down low. You should run the codes and tell us what you get. Problably bad 02 sensors.

I am going to get a cylinder balance test on monday. Just wanted to get info from the pros though.

You can easily do this yourself, all you need is a paperclip and a pen. It will save you some $$$.

go here for instructions on how to run the codes, really it only takes 5min. Scroll to the bottom of the screen for directions on the Cylinder balance test.

good luck

silas
 

shorook90

New Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2003
Messages
139
Reaction score
0
Location
Bakersfield California
sorry about the less than knowledgable reply but if you do not have a check engine light on will it do any good? I hope you say it will because my car has been running like this for a year and I still have not found out the problem.
 

shorook90

New Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2003
Messages
139
Reaction score
0
Location
Bakersfield California
tonight for the first time I deciede to finally try and figure what is causing the problem with my car. So I let it idle and pop the hood. well I look behind the manifold and hear a hissing sound coming from right behind the manifold. I trace it back to a hose connected to the back of the manifold, I believe it is a vaccum hose if I'm not mistaken. Do you believe this could be the culprit or would that have nothing to do with the problem. thanks for the patients guys. I'm trying hard to learn my sho in and out.
 

projectSHO89

SHOless In St L
Joined
Nov 7, 2001
Messages
6,116
Reaction score
160
Location
St. Louis, MO
The quickest way to find out if that is your problem would be to connect the hose back up and go for a test drive.

If it is a vacuum line, it would cause a vacuum leak that will definately affect drivability.

If that is a line that controls your secondaries, you will find that you've been running with then open all the time. Such a condition will greatly affect your engines performance up to around 4K, the the engine will take off like it is supposed to (you will have lost a great deal of low end power).

The vacuum hose routing on the rear of the intake should be something like this:

Small hose (about 2-3") from port on intake to small black cylinder clipped to bracket on intake. (Called the Secondary Accumulator or Vacuum Reservoir)

Small black hose from the secondary accumulator to an electrically operated valve (Idle or Intake Air Control Valve, IAC Valve). This valve should also have a 2-wire electrical connector on it.

Small black or gray hose from the IAC valve is routed under the intake manifold to a tee connector located below the ISC/IAB valve. Each branch of the tee goes to one of the IAC motors (vacuum motors).

There is a diagram of the part of the circuit located in this post: http://www.shoforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=17;t=002502#000000

Be advised that the artist used the designation IAC (Idle Air Control) for the ISC/IAB valve Idle Speed Control/Idle Air Bypass) in the drawing.

On the other hand, after posting, I noticed you are in California.

CA MTXs also included EGR which increases the complexity of the hose arrangement. yours would have an additional vacuum line from somewhere on the vacuum manifold or intake manifold to the EGR vlave solenoid and a line from the solenoid to the EGR valve proper. A second line (not vacuum, but high temp rubber) runs from the EGR tube to the PFE sensor.

There should be a vacuum schematic on the plastic plate behind the radiator. See if yours is still there and is legible.

Hopefully, these descriptions will give you enough info to identify the loose hose and connect it back to where it belongs. Let us know of the outcome. Feel free to ask additional questions if needed.

Steve

<small>[ February 15, 2003, 08:29 AM: Message edited by: projectSHO89 ]</small>
 

Forum statistics

Threads
107,077
Messages
1,181,196
Members
16,142
Latest member
Kaevorlly

Members online

Back
Top