Transmission shudder around 35-40 miles an hour.

[Bjorkmd99]

I have a 2012 Ford Taurus SHO with 154,000 miles on it. Seems that when I drive it and let off the gas and then give it load around 35-40 mph I get a shudder that last for more than 5 seconds and then as I speed up if goes away. I can pretty much make it happen. Mechanic is having a hard time finding the issues. I think it popped a couple Transmission codes in the P0500s and referred to the Transmission speed sensor out of range? I recently had misfires in cylinder 1 as well and codes are back after I had the coil pack replaced. Not sure where this is headed? Anyone else experience this?

 

[mrhighcaliber]

I have a 2012 Ford Taurus SHO with 154,000 miles on it. Seems that when I drive it and let off the gas and then give it load around 35-40 mph I get a shudder that last for more than 5 seconds and then as I speed up if goes away. I can pretyy much make it happen. Mechanic is having a hard time finding the issues. I think it popped a couple Transmission codes in the P0500s and referred to the Transmission speed sensor out of range. I recently had misfores in cylinder 1 as well and codes are back after I had the coil pack replaced. Not sure where this is headed? Anyone else experience this?

Change your plugs, and if your coils aren't relatively new (original), then I always recommend changing them all, along with plugs.

Good spark plugs, proper gap.

Change your fluid for the heck of it if you haven't recently. 5qts of Mercon LV.

Do you have access to a device to monitor engine parameters such as the torque app with an obd2 device or a sct tuner?

Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

 

[Bjorkmd99]

I haven't had the fluid changed as of yet. The ODBC was hooked up when we took it for spin and I could make it shudder and that is when he got the 501 code. I had all the plugs replaced about 6 months ago and a coil pack replace last week. They keep leaning to the Transmission speed sensor but that is buried inside. They are thinking something ignition related as cylinder 1 was misfiring previously. Maybe it is the other coil pack but I would think they would be able to see that with the diag tool. Mechanic seems to be at a loss as to what it is??

Also, they did find a mouse hole in a vac tube that they sealed. Possible open wiring issue?

 

[SHOdded]

Wiring can definitely be an issue. One mouse inflicted damage, may be more! Get that out of the way first.

If not ...

Change ALL the sensors behind the main control panel on the transmission. Once it starts popping codes for the transmission, that's an "all hands on deck" kind of situation. It still may be shifter related, but if that passes inspection, onto the brains of the transmission.

Range sensor, TSS sensor, and OSS sensor.

In addition, check the solenoid body assembly (SBA). If the resistance values on any of the solenoids is anywhere near the acceptable limit, replace it. At the least put a new filter on the SBA. If you need to replace it, note the strategy code on the new SBA prior to installing it, as the PCM has to be updated with that code.

If your mechanic has experience cleaning out valve bodies, then that is another good thing to do.

Fully change out the transmission fluid once the work is complete. New fluid is what Ford transmissions love

Takes about 4 hours to do this work (minus valve body). We have had MANY Edge owners, first timers and nonmechanics, DIY this successfully. Same basic transmission (6F5x).

 

[RayD35]

I remember reading about someone that had the same issue on one of the facebook groups, could not get to the issue for the life of them. Then a couple members mentioned to check to see if the torque converter is going out. Once it was replaced with a new unit, symptoms disappeared.

 

[Bjorkmd99]

I remember reading about someone that had the same issue on one of the facebook groups, could not get to the issue for the life of them. Then a couple members mentioned to check to see if the torque converter is going out. Once it was replaced with a new unit, symptoms disappeared.

My mecahnic is having a tough time with this! Taken over two weeks and is still leaning on bad sensors. I agree that it could be a bad torque converter as well as I have seen reference to this also, but is there a good way to test it to know for sure? I have forwarded the suggestions above and he was checking into each suggestion to this point. Starting to get a bit frustrated as I am without this car for over 2 weeks!

 

[SHOdded]

Get it to a trans shop or any shop that knows how to read Ford PIDs. They can figure out if the torque converter is acting up.

Or drive without O/D on (6th gear).

Or add Lubegard Shudder Fixx to the fluid and see if it makes any difference. If it does, you have confirmation.

 

[Bjorkmd99]

UPDATE: Thanks SHOdded! I pulled the car from my usually trusty mechanic and ended up putting Lubeguard Instant Shudder Fixx into the tranny fluid. Drove it for about 20-30 miles and things did get better. I live in WI (very cold) and the shudder is still present but not as much of a shudder and when car warms up no shudder at all. So does that lead us to believe the torque converter is the problem? Is it something that I would want replaced or have the entire Transmission inspected at this point? I love this car and no payments so I am willing to put some money in to keep it on the road for a longer time... Engine is strong!

 

[SHOdded]

Yes, torque converter would be my first goto Assuming the fluid is clean and smells like new, only the TC need be replaced. We have just started seeing people crack the case and replace the screen/filter themselves but that is not a widespread phenomenon yet.

A rebuild is never a bad idea, I think the last one I heard, including TC, went for about $1,500. Remanufactured is the best alternative, but a rebuild when only one or two things (outside of clutches/gears) go wrong is acceptable.