Transmission/Electrical problems

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Storm-Chaser

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The 95 SLO I own has developed a group of (apparently) related problems that are tied to the transmission/air conditioning system.

The transmission initially developed a slightly-hard shift into second, and initially the cruise crontrol would not work. Letting off the throttle prior to the shift to second prevent the hard shift. And most times if the car was turning prior to the shift into second, the hard shift would not occur. Fuses tied to the cruise crontrol were good and my initial impression was a bad VSS, which I have not had time to replace.

Over the last week, the car has shown a general trend of running hotter the faster I drive, followed by a drop in mileage. I suspected the compressor clutch was not releasing, and after verifying the compressor did not disengage or cycle over a five (5) minute period at idle, suspected the compressor clutch coil may be bad (it's ordered, I am on the road, and of course it arrived yesterday AFTER I had left).

Then Thursday (of course while I'm on the road), the transmission simply shifts out-of-gear at about 70mph ! I turn off the radio and the A/C to listen and the transmission immediately re-engages. I turn the A/C back on, and the transmission again immediately drops into neutral, as if I'm manually shifting into neutral. Once the problem starts, it is fairly easy to repeat. There was (and hasn't) been any slipping or shuddering, so the problem appears to be tied to the electrical control of the valve body. Okay, so I'm thinking I get to sweat a little until I get home, and I shift the majority of my driving to late evening.

The problem seems to be tied primarily to engine temp. Typically it has ran in between "M" and "A". Its now running between "R" and "M" with the A/C off, and will increase up to "O" at 70-75 mph if the A/C is left on before it starts electronically dropping into neutral (it's been near-100, so life has not been fun).

Friday, I started noticing occasional "misses" as if the engine needed plugs/wires - again when the A/C is running. Turn the A/C off and the problem stops. I also noted some minor flickering in the dome light last night, while driving with the A/C off.

I suspect the powertrain control module is going bad (and of course the new "spare" is sitting in my other Taurus in MS). But when I spoke with my brother who's a DSE at Ford, and he thinks the clutch coil may be pulling so much amperage, that its causing voltage/amperage drops that are affecting various electrical components - hence the tie to the air conditioning system.

Right now I am sitting at the Flying J in Dallas, trying to locate a salvage yard and an Autozone to pull the codes. Its suppose to be 100 again today and I only have 580 miles to drive home...

:cuss:


I will check back latter periodically, before (attempting to) get on the road late this evening.
 
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Storm-Chaser

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Well, I managed to "limp home", no thanks to AutoZone.

I must say I was truly disappointed with AutoZone. Of the EIGHT stores I stopped at, NOT ONE could or would pull the codes.

Two claimed "we don't do that", to which I showed them their proudly displayed sign that reads:



"FREE 'CHECK ENGINE
LIGHT" HELP
IS YOUR CHECK ENGINE
LIGHT ON?"​



Four stated "we don't do that for cars that old....".

Two made the excuse, "we're too busy, you will have to come back later..."

Buy this time, the few salvage yards I found either weren't open on Saturday, or had closed at noon. :madflame:

After getting the run-around the third time, I even went to the parts counter with ~$50 of items in-hand (speed bleeders and a few other items), and after they basically blew-me-off, I left the items at the counter and replied, "well, I guess I'll go somewhere else", and walked out. :finger:

For the two stores where the person was apparently unaware that AZ does this, I can understand that new employees may simply have not known. But to the remaining six stores that essentially blew-me-off, I was truly disappointed. One individual even went so far as to argue that the Gen IIs don't even have this ability.

It's been more than two years since I drove into the local AZ with a TPS problem, and after they couldn't find their OBD reader, pulled one off the shelf, read the codes, and showed me how simple it was to do.

Remembering that I had previously seen ODB readers in a WalMart, I found an ODB reader in the second super-center I tried, for $25.

Here are the KOEO codes I pulled:



    • 33 - (No KOEO code listed; KOER code 33 is KOER code for (Cars only): EGR valve not opening properly)
      172 - (No KOEO code listed; KOER code 172 is KOER code for HEGO (HO2S) sensor fault/lean)
      176 - (No KOEO code listed; Continuous Memory code for HEGO (HO2S) sensor fault/always lean)
      452 - (No KOEO code listed; KOER code 452 is KOER code for (Cars only): Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) signal fault)
      62 - (Cars only): AXOD 4/3 or 3/2 pressure switch circuit fault; circuit closed
      86 - (Cars only): adaptive fuel limit reached or 3-4 shift solenoid circuit failure
      47 - 4 x 4 switch closed (EO4D)
 
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ohfosho

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if you did a search around here, you would have found (much sooner, without the running around) the easy and FREE way to check your own codes...a paperclip. but oh well.


change your VSS, that will solve probably all of your tranny issues
and change your O2 sensors, they are not working properly.

the other codes could be problems caused by/related to the other codes described above. once you do as above, pull your negative battary connection for 10 mins to reset the computer. drive and check the codes again in a few days, if they pop back up then you have to clean your EGR/or replace it, and you may be looking into tranny rebuilds...
 

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