I think you want about as much negative camber as you can get out of it. Especially in the front.
Yup, for the front, definitely. And as negative camber is added in the front toe-out should increase.
So those numbers aren't a bad place to start. I had -3.5 to -3.75 camber on the front and was going to increase it once it was clarified that the rules allowed the strut towers to be slotted more than they were. And I had about -2.5 on the rear.
That being said I stuck with zero toe front and rear, as that just always seemed to work well for me. I did try front toe-out a couple times, and it just didn't seem to be overall "better" to me.
When everything else was working right this alignment setup helped make the car very neutral and easy to drive as well as fast.
A handy tool for alignment setup is a probe-type tire pyrometer and careful inspection of tire wear. Setup also depends on the types of tracks you run on (and your driving style), so only take internet advice so far. In my experience it's hard to keep the outside edges of the front tires from doing most of the cornering work on a SHO, which is why aggressive front camber helps. However, if your tracks have lots of long straights and open corners, it may not be as critical and keeping the tire flat (i.e., less camber) for braking may be better. This is where the pyrometer comes in as getting the inner carcass temperature across the tire provides a rough average of how hard each part of the tire is working. I could never get the inside of the fronts nearly as hot as the outside, so more camber could have helped. But that was me, in my car, on the tracks that I run. YMMV.
Look at the pics of those Ninja Turtle cars when they ran in the Firehawk series; they had some really serious negative camber dialed in on the front, more than -3 degrees.
