Torque Steer?

[TankII]

On the gas - pulls left. Off the gas - pulls right. Light or ******* the gas, no different.
Replaced:
Rack (Around 30K ago)

Newly replaced:
Strut-rod bushings
LCA
Tie-Rod Ends
Front Wheel Bearings
Axles
Right-Rear strut-rod mount (Used the Moog K8738) and bushings
All pads and greased the pins
Master Cylinder (low, clicks as you press - this problem started AFTER I did the axles)
Right Rear caliper (broke the bleeder trying to address the above issue)


4-wheel Alignment to stock specs.

I also re-aligned the subframe - pulled it all the way forward.

FYI: It has done this for about four years after one bad alignment.

 

[Art5]

struts, strut mounts or sub frame bushings/mounts, I'm thinking.

 

[zach44102]

mine does this only going around a corner. havent found out why. if im going around a corner on the gas its easier to controll but if i let off the gas half way into the corner the car will want to drift to the right.

 

[Art5]

mine does this only going around a corner. havent found out why. if im going around a corner on the gas its easier to controll but if i let off the gas half way into the corner the car will want to drift to the right.

I like your car
Mine is very similiar.

I had similiar to this problem in my car but mostly at high speed. I change almost everything I could in the car, besides aluminium or re-inforced things, but still need struts. So far all that drifting is gone.

 

[zach44102]

I like your car
Mine is very similiar.

I had similiar to this problem in my car but mostly at high speed. I change almost everything I could in the car, besides aluminium or re-inforced things, but still need struts. So far all that drifting is gone.

i have aluminum subframe bushings but everything els is stock, mine only does it at freeway speeds....thanks for the compliment btw.

 

[Art5]

I've had 13 shos and all of them had different problems with handling. On my present blue SHo, i had nearly everything, but I guess the more you have the better it is to notice when something is off. Ended up changing all of the strut rod bushings and sway bar bushings and endlinks. Got much better!!!
On previous, red one, subframe bushings were bad especially one in the rear. I couldn't notice it untill jacked the car up and then put another jack under suframe. SOme other past SHo i had, I think tranny mount was bad and it moved so the whole transaxel kinda shifted when accellerated.
The nagative part about subframe is that everything is mounted on it and you will feel almost the same effect from any worn part that's mounted to it.

 

[zach44102]

I've had 13 shos and all of them had different problems with handling. On my present blue SHo, i had nearly everything, but I guess the more you have the better it is to notice when something is off. Ended up changing all of the strut rod bushings and sway bar bushings and endlinks. Got much better!!!
On previous, red one, subframe bushings were bad especially one in the rear. I couldn't notice it untill jacked the car up and then put another jack under suframe. SOme other past SHo i had, I think tranny mount was bad and it moved so the whole transaxel kinda shifted when accellerated.
The nagative part about subframe is that everything is mounted on it and you will feel almost the same effect from any worn part that's mounted to it.

well my motor mounts are fried....i mean they are so bad the motor jumps a inch and a half...so im sure the trans mount is getting pretty bad....i think these three things are causing these probems because i can turn the wheel all the way one direction move the car a little bit and you can here the drivetrain pop because something is binding up. i have a new trans mount and reinforced front and rear mounts coming next week.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

crappy tires will cause nasty torque steer.

 

[rubydist]

the things that can cause the excessive torque steer:
strut rod bushings, ball joints, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, subframe bushings.

given that you have replaced most of the candidates, you should check them all to make sure that you got good parts. for example, I once replaced a wheel bearing only to have it go out again within 500 miles.

 

[itwonder]

You replaced the strut tension rod bushings, could you have the loose cups problem?

 

[shobote]

Were the axles new or rebuilt ? Sometimes rebuilt ones will cause torque steer. Have you replaced the front sway bar bushings/end links ? Toruqe steer was reduced on mine after installing the front STB.

 

[TankII]

Strut-Rod cups don't move in the front - I checked after having the issue in the right rear before I installed the new ones.

Front sway-bar end-links changed, not the body bushings. Rear sway bar body bushings changed, end-links are Hellwig (Tightened them as well).

Konis, Eibachs, Quaife, all installed for a long time. Direction change problem is at ANY throttle application or when letting off throttle, lightly or hard.

Police sub-frame bushings are almost 10 years old, but just under 90K ago.
Reinforced motor mounts, and the torque shocks are installed. Obviously, this is with two sets of tires, different sizes to boot (speedo is 3.5MPH off @70 with 215/60-16's!). Old tires I ran at Lime-Rock in '04 - BFG KDW 225/55-16. No torque-steer for a year afterwards when I replaced a ball joint, got the car aligned, and it hasn't been the same since.

All ball-joints, tie-rod ends, bushings and the rack are Moog.
End-links in the front are Duralast.
Axles were remanufactured - problem existed previously to replacment. A-1 Cardone. I had a problem with the Driver's side new one - it didn't stay in the tranny, so they replaced it.

I had the front wheel bearings replaced at Pep-Boys, but I did the rear hubs at about 130K miles.

Is there a Subframe alignment recommended procedure/position? I just pulled both sides forward as much as possible.

Dave R.

 

[Phoenix]

When you have replaced everything , what almost eliminated 90% of my torque steer was wide sticky tires. 245's on 18'' premium tires EX: Dunlop Direzza star spec.

The next step is the quaife.

 

[TankII]

I already have a quaife. The problem happens at any speed, any throttle application or lift.
I had stickier tires before now. No difference.
The problem appeared two years AFTER I put in the quaife, after an alignment, with the same tires before and after. The alignment was bad as both rear tires were turned in the same direction (Toe-in on left, toe-out on right). I told them to fix it, but they were unable to get it back the way it was. A subsequent alignment elswehere cleared up most of the symptoms, but not all. It has never been right since. Obviously it was alot worse before the work I just completed and alignment!

TankII

 

[Phokus]

Humm I don't know but I don't experience any torque steer. I think I've got it to do it 2 times so far but it happened randomly and wasn't serious and was corrected really easily. Since it happened randomly I don't know how to recreate it.

 

[Art5]

Well, as soon as I sell my Mustang GT calipers or seats, i'LL change struts and mounts and will let you guys know if all of the things I did to the car changed anything.

 

[93_SHO_FL]

I have exact same symptoms. I made the mistake of trusting the previous owner's work on the suspension.
Once I started tearing into it I noticed ALOT of botched work. Like, instead of new strut rod bushings...he used soft black silicone!!! It never fully cured! The tie rod ends were also fried. CV axles seem newer though. He claims he replaced sway bar bushings, but they look old.

When it gets back from being repainted, I'm doing aluminum subframe bushings, new strut rod bushings, inner tie rod ends (already did outers), sway bar bushings, and probably ball joints just to be safe. Any other suggestions are welcome!
Then alignment shop bound.

Hoping this fixes my symptoms.

Are there any guys on here familiar with this that are close to Clearwater, FL? Wouldn't mind making some new fellow-SHO friends locally in addition to online ones.

;-)

 

[93rev2sev]

Is there a Subframe alignment recommended procedure/position? I just pulled both sides forward as much as possible.

Dave R.

Yes! There is!

You need 3/4" steel bars - two of them-about a foot long. Anything will work as long as it's about 3/4" in diameter, about a foot long and not bendy. I used 3/4" oak dowels last night and I'm glad they didn't break...I'd much prefer a metal dowel.

Insert them into the holes in the subframe, just AFT of the front bushings. There is a matching hole in the unibody, directly above the hole in the subframe.

Loosen all subframe bushings a few turns, insert the first steel rod through the hole on the drivers side and into the unibody hole. Wiggle it around until the 2 holes line up perfectly. Both holes are round so any front to back or side to side motion of the rod will move the subframe. Once the holes are lined up on the drivers side, take a look at how they line up on the passenger side. If it's really close, snug up the drivers side bushing and leave the rod in place. If they aren't really very close, wiggle the passenger side until it is. Snug up the drivers side.

Now, goto passenger side again. The hole in the subframe on the passenger side is oval...so it only adjusts the passenger side from front to back (all side to side adjustment is done on drives side). Wiggle the rod until it's PARALLEL to the rod on the drivers side. I span a wide board across both rods to ensure they are parallel.

Now the subframe is aligned to the body. Tighten all 4 subframe bolts and recheck alignment. The drivers side rod should be perfectly perpendicular to the holes and the passenger side should be perfectly aligned with the rod on the drives side.

 

[93rev2sev]

Torque steer.

Check the holes in the knuckles where the ball joint stud goes. If it's wallered out, you will get EXACTLY the torque steer you describe and the only good solution is a new knuckle.

 

[220ksho]

Torque steer.

Check the holes in the knuckles where the ball joint stud goes. If it's wallered out, you will get EXACTLY the torque steer you describe and the only good solution is a new knuckle.

This is mostly likely the cause.