torque converter fix

[petedogg]

I will be replacing my torque converter soon, to fix the shudder I am getting and my code 1744. I am getting a rebuilt converter with welded internal splines. Are there other parts I should replace while I am in there, short of doing a full rebuild? Is there a seal next to the converter I should replace?

I am strongly considering replacing my pump shaft, since that seems to be a common failure. What other parts will I need to do this right? Any other common failure items that I should replace? I'm not looking to go overkill on this, because by budget is tight and the car already has 120k miles.

Also, I plan to replace it in my garage. Any recommendations for the height I will need on my jack stands? I already have a support to hold the engine, and plan to get a transmission jack adapter for my floor jack. Thanks.

 

[Wess]

I've been told by rebuilders to stay away from converters that aren't brazed during the manufacturing process. Converters that are brazed by hand I'm told will suffer from balancing issues, whereas a factory brazing distributes the solder more evenly.

 

[petedogg]

Thanks for the advice. I believe he told me they are TIG welded. I am getting it from 'Quality Custom Converters' out of NY. Saw a listing on Ebay, and gave him a call. It sounded like he owns a transmission shop, and installs these in customer cars. I'm just trusting that it will work. I'd think you'd really have to botch up the welds to have issues, given the mass of the converter.

 

[petedogg]

I guess I'm forgetting, though, that this is spinning at upwards of 7000 rpm.

Can you explain in more detail why brazing is better, and how it would distribute the solder more evenly?

 

[Wess]

I guess I'm forgetting, though, that this is spinning at upwards of 7000 rpm.

Can you explain in more detail why brazing is better, and how it would distribute the solder more evenly?

The vanes in many stock converters are crimped into place, with only a handful of them being actually soldered, welded. What can happen over time is the vanes become loose and will actually float around inside the converter assy. causing more damage. Many aftermarket converters come with all the vanes brazed which increases longevity and durability.

The distribution of solder I refer too has to do with how the converter is manufactured.

 

[SHOZ123]

I've got a fully brazed one and have had no problems in three years.

 

[petedogg]

I just called about my converter, and it is fully rebalanced and leak checked after it is done. It must be rebalanced anytime it is cut open, so I don't think that all my vanes getting TIG welds will be a problem. I will let you guys know how it all turns out when I am done.

Back to some of my original questions. Are there other parts I should replace while I am in there, short of doing a full rebuild on the tranny? Is there a seal next to the converter I should replace?

I am strongly considering replacing my pump shaft, since that seems to be a common failure. What other parts will I need to do this right? Any other common failure items that I should replace? Thanks.