timing belt

[brian gorkowski]

I have to change my timing belt, and the front seal is leaking onto the cats but i did not wan to change this until the spring when it is warmer. My question is should i just change the seal when i do the timing belt or is it a lot more work and therefore just wait till i do the shims?

 

[masho95]

Replacing the front crank seal has nothing to do with the "upper" 60K maintanance like the shims. You have to removed the timing belt to change the seal, so it wouldn't make sense to just change the belt and not the seal. Do both at the same time. Once the belt it off it's only another 30 mins at most to get the seal done.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Wait to change the timing belt when you have the time to change the front main. I would also suggest installing a new CPS, cam seals (3), and possible a new waterpump.

The shim adjustment can be done completely separate to the timing belt job. They do not have to be done at the same time, and doing them at the same time doesnt make either any easier.

 

[Rockledge]

If you know the seal is leaking and you are going in to change the timing belt, then IMO replacing that seal is an absolute must. You will regret later on not doing it, in all liklihood.

I just did a Front 60K on my SHO and was thinking about leaving the front seal alone, since I did not think it was leaking. But I was convinced by other forum members to go ahead and replace it, since I was already "in there". And now afterwards I am so glad I heeded their advice ...that kind of peace-of-mind is priceless, especially when it comes to the SHO. wink

The front crank seal is the easiest of the front seals to replace. It costs a couple of bucks. It's only a little more work while the timing belt is off. If I may quote the venerable sdpatt on this one: JUST DO IT.

 

[Dr. Tweak]

amen to all of the posts above.

take a look at my website in the maintenance section, there are detailed instructions to the lower 60k, if you are going all the way in there to change the timing belt, then doing the crank seal is just a step away, and it's very easy.


however, if the oil is dripping on your cat, it is very likely one of the cam seals. the instructions to that are on the same page. it isn't as easy though ;-)

check it out, if you have any questions just drop me an email thumb

 

[sdpatt]

By all means replace the National 710220 front main seal for about $8 when you replace the timing belt. It requires only that you remove the crankshaft timing belt pulley to reach it after the timing belt has been removed. The seal is usually pulled by drilling a small hole in the center of the seal face and screwing in a sheet metal screw. Pull on the screw with pliers or a claw hammer to slowly remove the seal.

Since you have an ATX, you will need another M6x80mm bolt to pull the timing belt pulley. The MTX's lower timing belt cover contains two of these bolts that fit the timing belt pulley, but the ATX has only one. You will need this second bolt unless, for some amazing reason, your timing belt pulley can be removed by hand. I have had it happen on some of the cars I have serviced. Be prepared though, get a pair of 80mm long, M6 bolts of the same thread as the screws that secure the timing belt covers. You should be able to find them at Pep Boys (don't laugh, that is where I found them) or a good hardware store.

 

[brian gorkowski]

thanks for the help. also when i change the timing belt and front seal what else should i change while i got the car a part any other seals, sensors, or parts. I already replaced the serp. belt, waterpump, CPS, alternator, and plugs.

 

[Dr. Tweak]

That's most everything. I would highly recommend doing the cam seals, even though it's a pain it's worth it, you'll be right there. shrug

 

[jbeano]

I was replacing my timing belt and water pump and was going to forgo doing the front seal. There was no leak and I considered leaving it. I happened to be at a Ford dealer to pick up something else and I decided to get a new one. When I removed the old one I found that it had cracks all around the inside ridge and was ready to start leaking. Man was I glad I changed my mind.

 

[sdpatt]

Lately, I have been seeing a number of camshaft seals that are the source of oil leaks. Please try the search feature as this topic has been recently discussed. The Fel-Pro TCS45870 seal set is an exact replacement for the OEM seals, but the National 1213N seals are a good substitute.

To access the three seals, you must remove the camshaft pulleys, the rear, metal timing belt cover, the CID sensor and its mounting hardware. You must also be extremely careful not to damage the camshaft surface where the seals ride.

Here is a look at what you will see when all of the hardware is out of the way to let you replace the three cam seals. The fourth cam does not penetrate the head to provide room for the alternator. This photo is from my engine during its front end 60K at 269,000 miles. The fifth time!

 

[brian gorkowski]

my list fr the auto store is
1 timing belt
1 Fel-Pro TCS45870 seal set
1 front main seal
1 M6 80mm bolt
did i leave anythinbg out?