Actually, that procedure is pretty close but not accurate.
After you get the pneumattic cylinder compressed and the allen wrench in there to hold the spring back, you need to rotate the eccentric idler bearing, the one with the two holes in it in that last pic.
Those two hole are what you insert a special tool into. That special tool attaches to an INCH*Poundtorque wrench with a 1/4" drive. With the tool attached to those two holes, you are supposed to loosen that center 14mm bolt and then rotate the eccentric into the belt using some un-Godly small amount of torque. This action pre-loads the belt to the correct amount of "tightness", whereupon you tighten down the 14mm bolt.
Now your timing belt is snug and nothing more. Then you release the allen wrench, thereby applying the tensioner's pressure to the belt.
The tensioner can only provide 3/4" of belt tension at most. So if you start with it 1" away from your belt, you are not going to get the tension that is required.
I can't stress enough how important it is to pre-snug up the belt by rotating that eccentric pulley into the belt BEFORE you release that pneumatic tensioner.
I have that tool given to me but I don't have a torque wrench that reads that low so I give it my best guesstimate.
Tom