Timing belt deflection

[tompumped]

I figured i'd post here rather than start a new thread.
I took everything apart, and it was going way too smooth other than the rough crank bolt head. Then I noticed my rear bank headgasket definitely has to be seeping oil. It seems minimal. I noticed it on the driver side, but I thought it might be wicking there from somewhere else. I never got a look at the pass. side until tonight and it looks like it's seeping also. I guess i'm going to try and forget about it until it gets bad. I found another user had a similar problem when I searched.
Anyway, I also messed up when I removed the last cam seal behind the cid sensor. I was tapping the pick and it slipped and went in between the cam and seal. Am I screwed now?
I looked at it to try and see if I could notice anything, but I can't. If worse comes to worse and I start going through sensors is there a sleeve kit that will fit that shaft? Would it be possible to put the sleeve kit on without taking everything else back apart if need be in the future? Surprisingly the only seal that was leaking was the crank seal.
Thank you again i'd be in a lot worse shape without you guys and this website.
Next time maybe i'll make the right choice and get a decent SHO, i've already put 2k+ into this one.

 

[sdpatt]

That rear bank exhaust cam seal is a tough one to get to. You are living the nightmare situation of scratching the camshaft surface under the seal. Take a very detailed look and feel of the surface of the cam where the seal rides. Check for any roughness. Small aberations can likely be smoothed with 400/800/1600 grit carbide cloth (sandpaper) to prevent you from having to replace the camshaft. You should search in the Forum for previous occurrences of this situation. It has certainly happened before. Hopefully you didn't score the camshaft and will be okay.

 

[tompumped]

I couldn't really see it, but it seemed like it was alright, I guess i'll find out.
I might be screwed even worse. When I drained the coolant to change the pump it was rusty looking and the rad fan seems to be new. Maybe the last owner overheated the car and fried the headgasket.
When I first got the car I drained all the coolant and it was rusty looking, now in about 20k it's rusty again. Just my luck. Compression test is next.
I'd have to say i'm not too sure about the fel pro o rings for the crossover tube, they weren't an exact match as the originals. I hope they don't leak. I also put some **** on them (non petrol based), I don't know if I should've.

 

[itwonder]

Last time I used the Felpro o-ring kit for the water pump and crossover o-rings, it was a match for the factory originals. The o-rings that come with some of the water pumps are not exact matches. So perhaps you have those from prior replacement. You should **** the o-rings only with Antifreeze. Oil based **** will end up floating around as a sheen on top of your coolant. No real harm done if you just used a little.

On the cam seals, the rubber coated ones should be sealed around the outer perimeter with a little RTV. It says so in the factory service manual. The reason is those seals fit into a two piece cavity. There is machining tolerance, and they can leak along the seam where the upper and lower pieces of the cavity bolt together. Some cars will leak there, some won't. The RTV also helps ensure the seal will not slip out of position. The fit is rather loose on the rear for some reason. I learned the hard way, use RTV.

Personally, I hate that pick technique. Get a cheap angle drill from Harbor Freight and drill the seal with a small bit. It is much easier to control than trying to hammer on a pick, especially for that rear one.

 

[tompumped]

If I was being more careful and I had the light closer to me I never would've slipped, I didn't realize that I was slipping and not going through the seal.

I ended up finishing and I had no coolant leaks or oil leaks that I can see yet. I used radiator hose grease that autozone sells in little packets to **** the o rings. It seemed that the o rings weren't as wide and the diameter seemed smaller. I know that it wasn't a good comparison because I had the new o rings lubed, but the old one seemed like a much tighter fit. That damn pipe was hard to remove from the thermostat end. I was using the fel pro kit.

I also did a compression test and it tested alright. I should've done a leakdown test, but i'd think if the compression test was within limits and there wasn't too much variation i'm alright. I don't know if a small leak can go un noticed with a compression test. I have no idea where all that rust is coming from, maybe it was just because I only drained and refilled the coolant instead of flushing the system.