Throw-out bearing actuation fork & shaft removal

[Bizzy]

I'm in the middle of doing my rebuild/quaife install. For the life of me I can't figure out how to take the actuator shaft and fork off. I took the screw out of the shaft but nothing gives. What am I missing? (Something probably so simple it's staring me in the face. )

I have Josh's vid, but no manual so I don't want to mess this up. I could do it without taking it off I suppose, but eventually it will have to come off so I can change the bushings out.

 

[AREA 91]

Bizzy, I was thinking the same thing. How does the shaft come out, and where do you get the bushings? shrug

 

[Bizzy]

witsimpala:
Bizzy, I was thinking the same thing. How does the shaft come out, and where do you get the bushings? shrug

Josh at SHO Nut carries them. He also has a set that is teflon impregnated, pretty durable things. I'm sure that FPN also carries them as well.

You'd think that after the retaining bolt is taken out that it would slide right now. I'm missing something here.....just not sure what it is yet. It's a minor obstacle though so I'm not too worried about it right now.

 

[Zap]

I just did this on the '94's tranny (we're progressing on the clutch finally). All you should have to do is remove the bolt going through the shift fork and then pull the whole piece up by the mechanism where the clutch cable attaches and out of the tranny. You might have some clutch dust in there that is making it hard to move it. Ours came out without too much trouble.

 

[Bizzy]

That's what I figured and thanks for the answer Zap.

I can see where the metal is separated at the top of the fork itself. But the bottom appears to be as one, no rust, but I can't make out where the shaft comes out the bottom of the fork. shrug

I'll get it, I'm just being impatient.

<small>[ July 12, 2003, 07:18 PM: Message edited by: Bizzy ]</small>

 

[bckicked]

your not being impatient i tried heating it up to the point of melting the plastic bushings.
i finally gave up and used another trans. i still have this case half in my garage. i was using just a small propane torch with map gas.
what i think is needed is a regular torch to get it red hot. i also beat this thing for about an hour.
i feel your pain man!! headbang

 

[sdpatt]

The bolt that holds the shift fork to the actuation lever shaft is the only thing that should keep the shaft from being removed. As stated before, once the bolt is removed, the shaft be able to be removed. The upper bushing may come with it. You should be able to provide a little muscle to help pull it out.

The only thing I can think that might be getting in the way is a bit of oxidation (rust) between the actuation lever shaft and the shift fork. My 271,000 mile old transaxle came apart without any problems, but I don't live in the rust belt. Sorry. The pictures below may help those have a better idea of what we are talking about that haven't seen this part of the drivetrain.

Close-up of throwout bearing, shift fork and actuation lever shaft.

Wide view of the engine side of the transaxle

<small>[ July 14, 2003, 08:59 AM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>

 

[shojuan]

sdpatt:
The only thing I can think that might be getting in the way is a bit of oxidation (rust) between the actuation lever shaft and the non-rusting brass shift fork. My 271,000 mile old transaxle came apart without any problems, but I don't live in the rust belt. Sorry. The pictures below may help those have a better idea of what we are talking about that haven't seen this part of the drivetrain.

Beth, shoot some PB Blaster in there and see if that helps free it up. If it doesn't then treat it like some baked on crap on dishes in the sink, just let it soak!

 

[TYSHO]

Beth,

That same damn thing happened to me, but I broke something. Being that broken piece for the lowering bushing, it didn't help. This is what I did; when looking into the pic that sdpatt posted, grab the shaft leveler and pull clock wise. In that same direction, the fork with contact the back of the bellhousing...grab a hammer and bang it to move the fork and possibly loosen some. Once you did that, it should be able to come out more and futher then it's limits when pushing the TOB outwards. It allows the fork to stick straight out and let you pull up some and lift the shaft out of the lower bushing assembly part as it could not before being the input shaft would be in the way with the fork stopping it. Now you have some play on top with the leveler, you can get a sheetrock hammer (one with the nail puller) and use the described end of it and put under neath the leveler arm. With this there, use your power to yank up on it and break it loose (more then once as it comes slowly and after the third hit with moving it should pop up and out. Also be sure to have the hammer all the way up on the leveler arm becuase if it's to far out it WILL bend the arm some in the upward position). This will not hurt anything as I did it to two trans with out a problem. However, do not attempt this without heating the fork up damn good orangish. The heat helps a lot and worked like a charm. The reason for the broken piece I had described earlier was from impatience and using the little loop as a pry part. Before reassembly, I ****'d it for the next job.

Good Luck!

Edit: If I confused you on some parts, just let me know and I'll explain better as it's late Saturday night and I'm tired as anything and have to wake up early for front end work on the SHO. thumb

<small>[ July 13, 2003, 04:20 AM: Message edited by: TYSHO ]</small>

 

[Bizzy]

The fork is off, thanks for the info guys. I did let it soak with some WD-40 overnight (my PB Blaster made off to the great "I didn't use it" abyss. ) I put the fork inside against the bell housing, tapped the shaft lever outside one way, then back the other way and eventually worked it free.

Thanks for all the helpful hints. That task is done now. thumb

Stay tuned, I have more questions.